New 99 runner basic tranny question

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surfh2o

New member
Just got me a 99 4x4 V6.:D I noticed after I start the engine and move the shifter from park to drive and let go of the brake the vehicle doesn't move on idle. Once I hit the gas I heard a clunk and I guess it's really in drive now. After I'm going and stopping it doesn't happen again. Cause it's already in drive. Is this normal operation going from park to drive or should I be concerned? I have also noticed some minor hesitation/clunk noise on very low speed stopping as well. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
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surfh2o said:
Just got me a 99 4x4 V6.:D I noticed after I start the engine and move the shifter from park to drive and let go of the brake the vehicle doesn't move on idle. Once I hit the gas I heard a clunk and I guess it's really in drive now. After I'm going and stopping it doesn't happen again. Cause it's already in drive. Is this normal operation going from park to drive or should I be concerned? I have also noticed some minor hesitation/clunk noise on very low speed stopping as well. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
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Do you use your e brake?? Its possible that it gets stuck and then when you actually hit the gas you break it free??
 
If its not your ebrake then you have a problem. Does it still happen if you let the engine warm up to normal running temp before driving? I would recommend changing all driveline fluids (gearbox, transfer and diffs) and take note of the condition of the old oils.
I had a similar problem once on a different truck and I narrowed down the clunk to the rear diff. It turned out that most of the oil had gone and was replace with muddy water from lots of off-roading. The ring and pinion and the spider gears were actually rusting together while the truck was sitting still, and the clunk was when the rust was breaking free.
 
I'll check the ebrake. Should I just check for how many clicks and tighten? I shouldn't be driving it much, so as soon as the weather gets a little nicer I'm going to change all fluids.
 
I'm saying it is more than likely the rear end, the ring and pinion in the 3rd member will have general wear from high milage, and the original backlash will increase enough to where you have a larger amount of play, or slop, lol... it doesn't mean its about to fall out, but just a little warn. Straight drive trucks usually will have this far before automatics due to the constant unloading and loading of the driveline when switching gears. Although my 4runner has 180k miles it doesnt have much play in the rear just yet... hope this helps.

* throw it in Neutral and set the E-brake. Lay underneath it and grab the driveshaft. Twist it and feel the play, it should be clear then...
 
Thanks for all the good info. The slip joint on the rear drive shaft. I have the repair manual and maybe it shows where this is, but i'm not sure. Is it lubbed by zerk fitting?
 
I think it may have something to do with my front left brake. When I'm about to come to a stop it shudders and grabs. I'm not sure what this would be either. Guess something with my caliper maybe??? Maybe the pads are jacked up??? Stopping at speed is fine it's just when I'm about to completely stop then...clunk, clunk and it grabs and jerks the left to stop........
 
Mine does the exact same thing but it only does it when I use the e-brake and it's cold outside. I think it freezes to the drum and when I give it some gas it breaks the shoes free and I'm away! I would not use the e-brake a couple of times and see if it still does it. I don't think anything is wrong with your front right brake because when you apply your e-brake it only applies to your rear tires.

Good luck, let me know what you find out...
 
See I'm thinking different now cause it happens when I'm driving and about to come to a compete stop. No e-brake involved......
 
you could have a bad wheel cylinder, or caliper. If the front caliper was sticking though, your car would pull to one side when you slowed down. Im thinking you probably have a bad wheel cylinder, or proportioning valve.
 
It does seem to pull, but it's to the right. Wheel cylinder/ P-valve.... I've never messed with either one, is it hard to do or expensive?
 
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