New battery. What is the most capacity we can fit?

[2TH4IST]

From my understanding the side terminals are not rated to the amps as the top posts are. I don't know it that was on Odyssey's site or full throttle.

I'll be going with a group 27f. It's pretty damn big. I'm staying away from lithium.

Also lithium batteries do not like heat. There was a good vid on YouTube explaining and testing the theory.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

From my understanding the side terminals are not rated to the amps as the top posts are. I don't know it that was on Odyssey's site or full throttle.

I'll be going with a group 27f. It's pretty damn big. I'm staying away from lithium.

Also lithium batteries do not like heat. There was a good vid on YouTube explaining and testing the theory.

The 27 is 1.5”ish longer than a 24. Same height and width. Our hold down will work just like it was a group 24.


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[Endlessblockades]

Not saying this is a great battery. I needed a battery and went with this to try something different. Just adding it to the mix. Group48 AKA DH6. It does use a DIN post which prefers a bit smaller or adjustable negative terminal. It's a little shorter, hence the wood shim. I'll raise it from the bottom eventually. I used a lead shim from Autozone with the factory ground for now. I also took a picture that is doing no good on my phone so here it is....

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Not saying this is a great battery. I needed a battery and went with this to try something different. Just adding it to the mix. Group48 AKA DH6. It does use a DIN post which prefers a bit smaller or adjustable negative terminal. It's a little shorter, hence the wood shim. I'll raise it from the bottom eventually. I used a lead shim from Autozone with the factory ground for now. I also took a picture that is doing no good on my phone so here it is....

My experience is a group 27 or a group 65 is the best bang for the buck. Sadly a group 65 doesn’t have a reverse post (F mount). Unless you can up the charging voltage to match the AGM requirements, I’m skeptical of the life expectancy of an AGM batteries charge specs.

 

[pluton]

The Northstar 27F I bought a couple years ago (Now it's called an Odyssey 27F) claimed 92 amp hours on a 20 hour discharge. I bought it for my house (auxilliary)battery, but liked that it could be shoehorned into the starting battery location in case of emergency. My current starting battery is an Odyssey 34R, which requires being elevated about 1" and spacers to be added to the hold down. 24F wasn't available as an AGM at the time, so 34R it was.
Agree that if an AGM is treated to the normal charging voltage in our 4Runners, it will gradually lose capacity over time at a higher rate than normal battery aging with use. I added an HKB voltage boosting diode device which *hopefully* will allow the AGM battery to not lose so much capacity several years more down the road.

 

[Endlessblockades]

The Northstar 27F I bought a couple years ago (Now it's called an Odyssey 27F) claimed 92 amp hours on a 20 hour discharge. I bought it for my house (auxilliary)battery, but liked that it could be shoehorned into the starting battery location in case of emergency. My current starting battery is an Odyssey 34R, which requires being elevated about 1" and spacers to be added to the hold down. 24F wasn't available as an AGM at the time, so 34R it was.
Agree that if an AGM is treated to the normal charging voltage in our 4Runners, it will gradually lose capacity over time at a higher rate than normal battery aging with use. I added an HKB voltage boosting diode device which *hopefully* will allow the AGM battery to not lose so much capacity several years more down the road.

Interesting. What voltage increase are you seeing with that device? I see they made an adjustable booster that went up to plus 1 volt at one point (out of stock)

 

[3bears]

From my understanding the side terminals are not rated to the amps as the top posts are. I don't know it that was on Odyssey's site or full throttle.

I'll be going with a group 27f. It's pretty damn big. I'm staying away from lithium.

Also lithium batteries do not like heat. There was a good vid on YouTube explaining and testing the theory.

they dont like extreme cold either

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Interesting. What voltage increase are you seeing with that device? I see they made an adjustable booster that went up to plus 1 volt at one point (out of stock)

I’m watching for it to be in stock also. But the GM diode I may try.


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[pluton]

Interesting. What voltage increase are you seeing with that device? I see they made an adjustable booster that went up to plus 1 volt at one point (out of stock)

I got the adjustable HKB.MK4 Adjustable Alternator Voltage Booster | HKB Electronics
It changes the voltage by 0V - 1V in ~.2V steps. I monitor voltage using a Scanguage II plugged into the cabin OBD terminal near the gas pedal.
I set it to + 0.6 (which is the same boost as their cheaper fixed boost unit).
At 32ºF cold start it's initially at 14.8V-14.9V with couple flickers to 15V. The 15V flickers go away after a minute or so. Later in the cold day it settles at about 14.4.
On a hot summer day, once the engine has been running a while, it goes as low as 13.8V-14.0V.
I could have bought the fixed 0.6 boost unit and saved some $$....live and learn.

 

[Endlessblockades]

I got the adjustable HKB.MK4 Adjustable Alternator Voltage Booster | HKB Electronics
It changes the voltage by 0V - 1V in ~.2V steps. I monitor voltage using a Scanguage II plugged into the cabin OBD terminal near the gas pedal.
I set it to + 0.6 (which is the same boost as their cheaper fixed boost unit).
At 32ºF cold start it's initially at 14.8V-14.9V with couple flickers to 15V. The 15V flickers go away after a minute or so. Later in the cold day it settles at about 14.4.
On a hot summer day, once the engine has been running a while, it goes as low as 13.8V-14.0V.
I could have bought the fixed 0.6 boost unit and saved some $$....live and learn.

Thanks for the info. My UltraGauge currently shows a max of about 14.23 with a stock Alt. Do you think it would be worthwhile to pop a fixed volt boost unit in to help out my new AGM battery? The variable unit is out of stock.

When I plug in make/model year this is the only unit they have in stock MK3 Mini blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version) (Micro blade compatible) | HKB Electronics

 

[pluton]

Thanks for the info. My UltraGauge currently shows a max of about 14.23 with a stock Alt. Do you think it would be worthwhile to pop a fixed volt boost unit in to help out my new AGM battery? The variable unit is out of stock.

When I plug in make/model year this is the only unit they have in stock MK3 Mini blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version) (Micro blade compatible) | HKB Electronics

It's not what your observed max voltage is, it's what voltage the car spends most of its time at.
The voltage is supposed to vary with the temperature sensed at the alternator (a proxy for the temperature at the battery), so I suggest observing how much of your driving is at what voltage. It always starts high, and then drops down as the engine compartment heats up. If you are putting in many minutes or hours at too low a voltage---It seems that what constitutes "too low" is not an exact science---boost the voltage. Try not to let it go above 14.9-15V for any substantial length of time. The fixed 0.6V boost unit would have worked for my 4Runner, but I didn't know that when I began the voltage adventure, so I figured I'd get the adjustable one. When I first decided to get one, the adjustable units were out of stock. Within a few weeks/months, they became available again. I consider the concept of doing this an experiment, although supposedly thousands of satisfied Aussies use these things on their utes and Land Cruisers.
YMMV-
Results not guaranteed-
Good luck with your "experiment"!

 

[Endlessblockades]

It's not what your observed max voltage is, it's what voltage the car spends most of its time at.
The voltage is supposed to vary with the temperature sensed at the alternator (a proxy for the temperature at the battery), so I suggest observing how much of your driving is at what voltage. It always starts high, and then drops down as the engine compartment heats up. If you are putting in many minutes or hours at too low a voltage---It seems that what constitutes "too low" is not an exact science---boost the voltage. Try not to let it go above 14.9-15V for any substantial length of time. The fixed 0.6V boost unit would have worked for my 4Runner, but I didn't know that when I began the voltage adventure, so I figured I'd get the adjustable one. When I first decided to get one, the adjustable units were out of stock. Within a few weeks/months, they became available again. I consider the concept of doing this an experiment, although supposedly thousands of satisfied Aussies use these things on their utes and Land Cruisers.
YMMV-
Results not guaranteed-
Good luck with your "experiment"!

Understood. i drove about 300 miles yesterday and around 14.10 was what I saw most of the time. Wondering if throwing the battery on my NOCO genius charger every now and again is good enough to keep the battery happy.

 

[phattyduck]

Understood. i drove about 300 miles yesterday and around 14.10 was what I saw most of the time. Wondering if throwing the battery on my NOCO genius charger every now and again is good enough to keep the battery happy.

Everything I've seen seems to show the ideal charge voltage for an AGM to be 0.1-0.4V higher than FLA. Toyota/Denso is generally pretty conservative with charging voltages (on the low side, I mean - compare to most US manufacturers), but things have been working just fine for the last 25 years for 3rd gens... why change it? The OEM charge voltage may not be as efficient at charging an AGM, but the float voltage will still be correct for battery health.

That said, an overnight on a trickle charger ever 1-3 months is a good idea. That's what I do on our vehicles, generally.
4Runner: 105A upgraded Denso, sits a week or two regularly but driven long drives when driven
Van: 150A factory alternator, but lots of short trips
Volt: 130A factory DC-DC converter, factory AGM 12V battery
Camry: Tiny Miata battery (U1R), always on the trickle unless being driven

-Charlie

 

[Endlessblockades]

Update. I went ahead and ordered the fixed voltage booster. Due to the current exchange rate ( 1 AUD = 0.65 USD) it comes out to 49 USD landed (free shipping basically). I'm spending free money on this probably unneeded fuse, so don't @ me.

Subtotal: $50.00
Shipping: $22.00
Grand Total: $72.00 AUD

I'll post some before/after shots of the V readings if I see a change.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

This is with the GM AC Clutch diode. If put in backwards the battery light comes on. I’m going to add the 7.5a fuse to it also.


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[Jason B]

If you guys are still looking for an awesome battery, the lithium ion batteries are around 1800 cranking amps. There is also a built in Jump start feature.
I've sold a ton of them to Ferrari and Lambo guys, as those cars typically need plugged in because they don't drive them enough.

LITHIUM BATTERIES, MICRO'-'STARTS – Antigravity Batteries - you can read more here about them here. Call/text me at 717-319-2100 and I'll work a deal for the first few that try one.

If anyone wants to try one, let me know above.