New Falken AT tire (A/T3W)

Just got my new grey TRD wheels installed with the AT3Ws in LT265/70R17 LR-E. Need to figure out the optimal tire pressure to run on the road, as Falken claimed 48-49 psi, but that seems way high. Likewise, Discount Tire filled them to 38 psi, but I'm not sure that's high enough. So far, in the all of 15 miles I've driven on them, they seem barely louder than the stock AT20s, and it's more of the high-pitched wind noise off the tires than the usual low-pitched hum one would expect. They balanced out perfectly as well!! Can't wait to try them out off-road tomorrow!

FullSizeRender%208_zpsvqpbbiie.jpg~original


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For those that have the P-metric tires, I'm curious how many actual plies they have on the tread portion, as it looks like the LTs are only 5 ply.

IMG_8271_zps0x3lyvsh.jpg~original

As subjective as it is, I'm still curious to know how the stock e-load comparably to the dunlops? Is it a noticeable harshness or just stiffer? I know all tires run differently as some LT-E run better than or the same as "c's" and some are just downright harsh. Thanks for any input as I don't think many have posted on the stock size e.
 
As subjective as it is, I'm still curious to know how the stock e-load comparably to the dunlops? Is it a noticeable harshness or just stiffer? I know all tires run differently as some LT-E run better than or the same as "c's" and some are just downright harsh. Thanks for any input as I don't think many have posted on the stock size e.



Is going rattle your teeth off, for me is no big deal coming from a slammed 5.0 stang in rubber bands for tires


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Is going rattle your teeth off, for me is no big deal coming from a slammed 5.0 stang in rubber bands for tires


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I figured and needed to hear...the extra 1/8" of tread depth and extra couple of ply's aren't worth that for my application. Thanks for the quick and honest response!
 
That's what I figured and needed to hear...the extra 1/8" of tread depth and extra couple of ply's aren't worth that for my application. Thanks for the quick and honest

Is really not that bad, I suggest you find someone with load e tires and make your own call


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As subjective as it is, I'm still curious to know how the stock e-load comparably to the dunlops? Is it a noticeable harshness or just stiffer? I know all tires run differently as some LT-E run better than or the same as "c's" and some are just downright harsh. Thanks for any input as I don't think many have posted on the stock size e.

I don't have a lot of miles on the Falkens, and only a hair over 400 miles on the stock Dunlops. That being said, I can tell that bumps are not as well damped as they were with the Dunlops. The dealer had the Dunlops set at 42 psi, I dropped them to 38, which was still probably too high for them. I'm currently at 38 psi on the Falkens. It's really not that bad, just noticeable. Need more time on them, but I think they have more grip than the Dunlops as well on-road. I'm taking them off-road tomorrow as well as a decent amount of on-road to get there. Can give an update afterwards.
 
That's what I figured and needed to hear...the extra 1/8" of tread depth and extra couple of ply's aren't worth that for my application. Thanks for the quick and honest

Is really not that bad, I suggest you find someone with load e tires and make your own call


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I completely agree with your advice, I wish I could, these tires are just to new for a lot of people to be running them and I don't live in an area that has a lot of options for people to just call up. The main reason why I asked (I have ridden/drove vehicles with e load original KO's) is that these are made of a different compound (more like what you see in most p-rated tires) than the natural rubber found in most e-load tires like the KO's and KO2's. So if the ride was a bit more bearable I would consider sacrificing the weight savings for a little more protection and tread depth (1/8" more). As I am not rock crawling in south Florida, and usually doing moderate trails at most, dealing with loose rock, dirt, sand and mud, as well as this being a daily driver and grocery getter the SL version sounds like it will fit my needs better, I just wanted confirmation. I appreciate your reply though because your suggestion is definitely the best if it were an option.
 
I've been running these P-rated OEM size for 2000 miles since brand new vehicle and to me the road feel is fine.

I only had a few test drives and 20 miles ownership on the OEM Bridgestone Dueler, and the feel isn't as soft as those but it's fine.

Really the only difference I notice is a bit of a growl on sweeping curves (on-ramps at speed for example) but it's fine.

I run them at 36 psi and it's 100% on road driving at this point.

Traction dry and wet is fine those far. Braking is fine, I had one hard emergency stop and it stopped fine but pulled to the left (probably not the tire's fault.)
 
Posted over in the the "What did you do..." thread but I think it needs to be here too. New 285-70-17s P Metric on the FN 5 Star wheels. :party:
 
I should have them in couple of days, placed an order on Saturday.
Awesome! Interested to see how they fit. Looks like they run small for a 34", so I'm hopeful that rubbing is less of an issue

33.9 * 11.1 (Skinnier than the 285/70s)
 
I should have them in couple of days, placed an order on Saturday.
Of you don't mind how much are they running now? Originally they were 500ish and last I checked a few weeks ago it was like 635 on discount tire direct.

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Just got my new grey TRD wheels installed with the AT3Ws in LT265/70R17 LR-E. Need to figure out the optimal tire pressure to run on the road, as Falken claimed 48-49 psi, but that seems way high. Likewise, Discount Tire filled them to 38 psi, but I'm not sure that's high enough. So far, in the all of 15 miles I've driven on them, they seem barely louder than the stock AT20s, and it's more of the high-pitched wind noise off the tires than the usual low-pitched hum one would expect. They balanced out perfectly as well!! Can't wait to try them out off-road tomorrow!

Any additional thoughts to share on the E tires and how they ride, plus how they were off road?
 
Any additional thoughts to share on the E tires and how they ride, plus how they were off road?

Posted in the what have you done today thread, but I went out and did the Switzerland Trail out here and a spur or two, to include Cliffhanger 2.0 from TFL Truck's YouTube channel. That spur and a small-ish rock wall were the only challenging things we did. Cliffhanger was a lot of loose rock and dirt on a very steep hill with side slopes...truck did great, though a lot of ATRAC action. A friend with a built FJ and Duratracs said that was the most ATRAC he's ever had on his truck as well, just to give an idea how loose the surface was. All in all, my biggest issues were clearance related, but probably didn't do much to test the limits of grip.

On-road, the ride is noticeably more harsh, but certainly no worse than I had in my STi. It's just not as smooth as stock, but not back breaking. On rutted dirt roads at any appreciable speed and street pressures, it would rattle your teeth out, but smoothed out nicely aired down to 20 psi. I'd say if you have rocky trails to contend with and will do them often enough that you want the extra protection, do it and don't think about it too hard. Otherwise, get the P-metric, enjoy a slightly smoother ride, and have a good spare and necessary equipment to change the wheel out off-road. On a final note, while they wallow a bit more than stock AT20s due to deeper tread, etc, the Falkens do seem to have better ultimate grip on-road in corners...hope that's not just my imagination though.
 
Just an FYI... I noticed that under even light braking in a parking lot at near full-lock, I'm getting light tire rub on the inside of the front mud flaps. There's a bump out on the flaps that I've read people just take a heat gun to...guess I need to do that now. I was just a bit surprised to get it with stock size, though LT which are 4/32nds deeper tread depth and 31.9" diameter vs 31.6 or 31.7"). I'm sure if I did the front leveling lift to eliminate brake dive, it likely wouldn't happen at all.
 

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