Barcelona4runner
New member
Looks good. I don’t think they look too small at all.
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I might go bigger when it’s time for new rubber but that’s a long ways away.
Looks good. I don’t think they look too small at all.
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I have the Falkens on my 4runner and both Land Cruisers after running Grabber AT2s and KO2s. The P rated Falkens have amazing snow and ice traction for an AT, much better than the KO2 and slightly better than the KO2. That said, they are still an AT, and there are better snow and ice options. Nothing beats dedicated winter tires.
If you are looking at the ST Maxx tires, read the reviews and take advice from a former owner. Heavy and VERY hard to balance. I returned mine after three tries to balance (shop had Hunter road force machine). Told me they had the problem with the ST Maxx on a few occasions. Got a refund and bought another set of Falkens (no balance issues on any of my 3 sets).
ATs for on road driving are a compromise. The Falkens are, iMO, less of a compromise than most.
I don't think the 265's look stupid on a 2.5/2 lift, but that's just me. I just installed the lift this weekend. This was the day after the install so it may settle a bit more.
I don't think the 265's look stupid on a 2.5/2 lift, but that's just me. I just installed the lift this weekend. This was the day after the install so it may settle a bit more.
Falken AT3W's in 285/75r17. Had to take a screenshot to get it to upload pics, smfh lmao
But if you research most of those tires that get great ratings only have the soft compound roughly in the out 1/3 so when you wear them down they become all seasons, and pretty bad winter tires there after. Been there.
I can tell you they are much bigger that the crappy stock tire. .
Looks amazing!!!! Body mount chop and UCAs?
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Hey, that's very interesting! I have read a lot about tires but had not come across anything saying that 1/3 of the tread gets the softer compound. Where should I look? This got me interested because the wear of my Falkens does not seem linear.
I am losing the first 2/32nds in no time. No time being 4,000 miles. It happened on the new set last spring and on my new rear tires this spring (1/32 in 2,000 miles so far). But my fronts where 8.5/32 2,000 miles ago and are 8.5/32 now.
I thought last year that I lost 2/32nds quickly due to 600 offroad miles in AZ and UT in very harsh terrain and the same this spring until I measured the fronts and found them to be the same!
in sum, wear slowed down tremendously once the tires were under 10/32nds. By contrast my KO2s seemed not to wear at all the first 3,000 miles or so and then they started to wear down faster eventually averaging 4,000 per 1/32 over from new (12/32) to when I sold my Outback (8/32).
I would really like to read more about the compounds being different in the outer layers.
Thanks!
And, yes, I measured the Wildpeaks to be like 1" wider than the stock tire, crazy!
I am not sure about the Wildpeaks. But it would make sense, having a soft rubber all the way might make them handle terrible. I could not find anything saying they were using dual compounds. I had hoped not since the LT version has a deeper tread.
I found out about this from a tire dealer years ago when my Blizzack tires all of a sudden where terrible. Then I reaserched it and found it to be common. Some tires don’t do this but add plastic shards to act like studs instead. Dunlop, Yokohama are a couple, I have worn those down heavily and they maintained their ice performance. But, things change all the time.
My other tire irratation is Dicount Tire. They removed all of their snipping machines, why, because it extended the life of snow tires. This was told to me about a month ago from an irritated DT employee.
Thanks, so were you told that specifically about winter tires (the dual compound)?
There is no doubt that the Wildpeaks lose tread extremely fast at first (at least with offroad use) and then stabilize. I have been getting progressively better wear as the tires age.
In terms of traction, I use my locker preventively and also MTS so I still have no issues.
As for road traction, well, Arizona. And I drive it very gently thus I cannot tell if cornering or braking is worse without having ever pushed it.
Am I going crazy or did these just go up like $50 per tire? 285/70s were $174 now they're $222, 285/75s were $193 now they're $250 :doh:
255/80 went up too. Pushing me more towards ridge grapplers. Only 198$ per set difference now
A quick search returned this from Tire Rack. Just an example.
How Long Will Blizzak Winter / Snow Tires Last?
The Blizzak WS-tires' Multicell tread compound comprises the top 55 percent of the tires' tread depth with a standard winter tread compound comprising the remaining 45 percent. When Blizzaks are approximately 50 percent worn, their "snow platform" tread depth indicators "connect" selected shoulder tread blocks to indicate that the Multicell tread compound is almost worn out, and that the enhanced snow and ice performance is about to end.
We have personal experience on a wide range of vehicles from sports cars to SUVs. Our experience, and that of our customers, indicates that Blizzak winter / snow tires will typically provide 12,000 to 15,000 miles of winter service before wearing out their Multicell tread compound. Therefore, Blizzaks are providing an estimated three to four winter seasons of wear from their Multicell tread compound for the driver who drives an average total of 15,000 miles per year (with 3,000 to 4,000 winter miles per year).
Blizzak winter / snow tires are not recommended to be reinstalled when their tread depth has worn down to the "snow platform" tread depth indicators before the start of the winter season.
I love these tires!
First up was my Avalanche, SL version
Then my wife’s JK Unlimted, C
Yesterday I mount some to SCS Rays 10 for the 4R, stock size
Having run both rubber compounds here are my thoughts. The C loads are still amazing in snow (I drove through some deep nasty covered icy rutted snow two weeks ago that would have stopped most) in the JK. But the SL version is better on ice.
The Jeep has Duratracs before, same size and load. 33”. The Falkens are much better in snow and ice even in the harder rubber compound. They run smoother are not as loud on the highway. They are a little bouncier, but I have not done a chalk test yet to figure out their ideal pressure. The Duratracs also cornered a little better on the road.
The Avalanche with the SLs has been amazing this winter. Yeah snow and ice tires might be a little bettter on ice. But if you research most of those tires that get great ratings only have the soft compound roughly in the out 1/3 so when you wear them down they become all seasons, and pretty bad winter tires there after. Been there.
I go to a garage in Loveland CO that is more of a race car shop, SCR. Love these guys! They work on my sports car. Garage is full of BMW, Fararri, Mazda, etc race cars. The interesting things these guys all drive Toyota’s, 4Rs, FJs, LandCruisers, all modded. I had my tires mount here because they have the best equipment in Northern Co for balancing. The funny thing is they have almost completely switched over to the Falkens, even their friends and family. As soon as I started to say I wanted to order “Fal....” he finished my sentance. They matched Discount Tire prices without me even asking, and had them delivered same day! Dang they look great on the Rays 10, can’t wait to get them on.
I am sure this has been mentioned, but tire sizing as advertised and molded into the tire does not mean they are the same size, sometimes not even close. Tire Rack measures every tire they carry for the true size. Unfortunately they don’t carry these. I can tell you they are much bigger that the crappy stock tire. Stock tires are for a smooth mall crawl ride, better gas mileage for marketing, government, etc. I have even found that OE tires of the same make, model, and size are smaller that the same aftermarket tire.