new guy needs help with electrical issues

reed1285

New member
Hey whats up everybody. New guy from TN here. Ive gotten alot of info from the past on the forum and finally decided to join.

First...some specs. I have a 95 sr5 runner with the 3.0 v6 and an auto tranny. It has a 4" lift with 35" mud terrains on it. Im still learning alot about 4 wheel drives as I go, as this is my first one. I converted over from the tuner scene haha. My last ride/project was a 95 240sx with a turboed ka motor. So again, this is my first 4x4 and Im loving it so far.

Now on to the issue im having im hoping someone can help me with. Ive hasd the runner for about 5 months now and when I got it all was well except for some transfer case oil leaks, nothing to big. well after about 3 months I got up one morning and went to start it and nothing happened. the battery was COMPLETELY drained. the interior lights didnt come on, didnt hear and buzzing or anything, nothing. So I went and bought a new battery. Ran great for 2 days then bam, same thing happened. So I automatically think the alternator is bad. Pop it off and take it and have it tested and sure enough its bad. A day later I was scrounging around on craigslist and find a takeoff alternator from a 95 sr5 for 20 bucks in "as is" condition. what the hell for 20 bucks its worth a try. Go pick it up it tests good. Heck yeah...right? Not so. put it on the runner, charge the now 3day old battery to full charge. Starts up and runs great, this time for about 5 days before going dead...again.

So now im starting to think I have a ground issue somewhere. Quite possibly on the alternator. Here is my potentially stupid question. The alternator on a 95 DOES have a dedicated ground wire on the alternator...right? I didnt think twice about it until now because when I pulled the old alternator off, there was no ground wire, just the hot wire and the electrical plug. Maybe the ground burned off? Also, where does the ground wire hook to on the alternator? The only place I can see is a tiny little post on top of it.

Anways, sorry for writing this book of a thread, I just wanted to tell you guys the whole deal and maybe get a better understanding of whats going on. Thanks for any help. I will post picks up of her as soon as I get this issue fixed.
 
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I'm assuming you retested the used alternator after the battery died again? And did you charge the battery before you installed the "new" alternator? I was told they're not supposed to charge a dead battery, just keep a good battery charged. Maybe you wiped out the alternator charging the dead battery.

Don't know about a ground wire on the alt. Never seen one..... Good luck.
 
Assuming you've tested both the alt and battery(and they pass factory spec, check factory manual), you might consider getting out the voltmeter to test the circuits for a draw at the fuse box. It might end up being something quite simple.
regards
 
a bit of information i left out on accident is that when the battery was fully charged and the tested good alternator was in, in the five days that it ran before dying again, the dash lights (the seatbelt warning light and handbrake warning light) stayed on in the runner even after the switch was off and the key out of the ignition. also the buzzer that sounds when the key is in the switch and the door is open quit working. when the fuse is pulled for the guage lights, they go out, and the door buzzer works again. put the fuse back in the lights come back on and the door buzzer quits working. crazy, huh. also, when the fuse is in, on top of the gauge lights staying on, the battery charge indicator needle goes up to about 14 volts or so, like it was running or something. do you think all my problems could be from a bad ignition switch?
 
Sorry bro, waaaay out of my league. Definitely run the circuits with a DMM. Could be a ground or faulted wire.

What part of Tennessee? Spent a week in Cookesville a few years back. Beautiful place. Wouldn't mind going back.
 
My money is on the ignition switch. Seems that it thinks the key is still in and in the on position. This would cause a drain even if you pull the dash light fuse.
 
Here is my potentially stupid question. The alternator on a 95 DOES have a dedicated ground wire on the alternator...right?

No, the ground is a mechanical one made by bolting it to the engine.
 
Sorry bro, waaaay out of my league. Definitely run the circuits with a DMM. Could be a ground or faulted wire.

What part of Tennessee? Spent a week in Cookesville a few years back. Beautiful place. Wouldn't mind going back.

im in chattanooga, right there on the georgia line. Ive been to Cookeville a few times, its nice up there.

My money is on the ignition switch. Seems that it thinks the key is still in and in the on position. This would cause a drain even if you pull the dash light fuse.

thats exactly what Im thinking too. I wont be able to check it for sure until Thursday.

No, the ground is a mechanical one made by bolting it to the engine.

Thanks for confirming!
 

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