New owner with an 01 SR5

jmferg

jmferg

New member
Last week I purchased a 2001 SR5 4 runner with 136,000 miles. It is a 1-owner from California. It's almost showroom condition on the inside and 100% rust free. I picked it up for $7000 which I thought was a pretty good deal.
Couple things.
My mod list so far.
Weather tech mats
Coverking canvas seat covers
I purchased a ScanGuage II, new plugs and NGK wires, AFE dry filter for stock box, B&M auxiliary trans cooler, and few other odds and ends that need installed.
The timing belt has never been done and is going to the local Toyota dealer for it.
I was going to change the oil to Mobile 1 and a Toyota filter. Is that what most people run?
Also what brand/weight oil should I run when I flush the front/rear diffs?
Also, when I do the trans cooler, what brand fluid do you guys prefer with an oem Toyota trans filter?

Don't worry, it will be getting the tundra brake upgrade as well

I will add several more questions later but my build plan is the following after I complete the above maintenance items first.

Remove running boards.
Replace front and rear chrome bumpers with PTM silver bumpers. PTM grill silver as well.

As far as lift, I want to go with 265/75/16 Toyo RTs on the oem 5 star wheels. My lift plans are the adjustable bilstein shocks on the front set at 1.25" and 1.5" spacers for the rear. Going with 1.25" spidertrax spacers to fill the wide flares


Any thoughts and suggestions?
So far I love the 4R. I have been I diehard ford guy and this is quiet and comfortable compared to my lifted and locked f150 that I never finished building the supercharged engine for
 
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Sounds like an amazing deal you found. Be sure to post some pictures! If you like plasti-dipping, you could dip your badges/wheels. Fun little project I did for 10$. You could also paint the skid plates black or silver so if you ever took her off-road you could immediately tell if you hit the plates. Just two things I liked doing :welcome:
 
I would suggest doing the extended differential breather mod. It is super easy and cheap. Our rear axle seals are known to go bad and are expensive to fix. Doing the breather mod helps reduce the likely hood that the seals will fail.

Post some pictures!
 
jmferg said:
Last week I purchased a 2001 SR5 4 runner with 136,000 miles. It is a 1-owner from California. It's almost showroom condition on the inside and 100% rust free. I picked it up for $7000 which I thought was a pretty good deal.
Couple things.

Going to change the oil to Mobile 1 and a Toyota filter. Is that what most people run?

Also what brand/weight oil should I run when I flush the front/rear diffs.
Click to expand...

^^ Congrats jmferg on your prestine Gen3.
- I found a really good 1 owner one (2000 T4R SR5 3.4L) in January, but rare in Northern rust belt areas.
California, has all the good solid iron...he-he.

Spec's & Capacity - these links will help:
AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide
http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookup.aspx?zo=527739&zo=527739
2001 TOYOTA 4-RUNNER 3.4L 6-cyl Engine Code 5VZ-FE
http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookup.aspx?url2=2001+TOYOTA+4-RUNNER+8

For the money, better oil out there than Mobil1 / which has probably been reformulated (aka changed).
I use to be sold on Amsoil Synthetic / expensive but very good, at extended oil frequencies.

Vehicle fluids - all I run:
a) Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 Synthetic / made from clean Natural Gas, as base stock / on-line reviews are fantastic.
- Walmart.com has 5qt jugs, at $27.88 US / free shipping to specified store
b) Amsoil has one of the best synthetic media oil filters, but pricey.
FYI - WIX makes Amsoil premium filters, their Platium XP series / so buy the WIX 51516XP, at RockAuto.com
- larger capacity one, that used in older Land Crusiers
c) Amsoil Severe Gear oil SAE 75w-90 is my top choice
d) Also I use Amsoil Racing Grease / due to extended oil changes.

^^ Easily expect to get 8,000 mile oil changes (or 13,000 Km.) / while the used oil still maintains a clean honey color.
 

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TravisM said:
Sounds like an amazing deal you found. Be sure to post some pictures! If you like plasti-dipping, you could dip your badges/wheels. Fun little project I did for 10$. You could also paint the skid plates black or silver so if you ever took her off-road you could immediately tell if you hit the plates. Just two things I liked doing :welcome:
Click to expand...

Painting the undercarriage will happen before its first Midwest winter. I may dip the wheels in anthracite plastidip

thegipper said:
I would suggest doing the extended differential breather mod. It is super easy and cheap. Our rear axle seals are known to go bad and are expensive to fix. Doing the breather mod helps reduce the likely hood that the seals will fail.

Post some pictures!
Click to expand...

I didn't realize the need for the breather mod but will add that to the list, thanks.
Believe me I know they can be expensive. I dropped 3g in my f150 getting it regeared rebuilt locked, chromoly shafts, etc..dont want that again

IBallEngineer said:
What is a PTM bumper? Seems like google brought up Ford F150 stuff, but no website.

:shrug:
Click to expand...



88toy4x4 said:
:confused:

I think it means "Paint to Match" maybe?:confused:
Click to expand...

Yeap, paint to match the chrome to the factory silver

Beaumont67 said:
^^ Congrats jmferg on your prestine Gen3.
- I found a really good 1 owner one (2000 T4R SR5 3.4L) in January, but rare in Northern rust belt areas.
California, has all the good solid iron...he-he.

For the money, better oil out there than Mobil1 which has probably been reformulated (aka changed).
I use to be sold on Amsoil Synthetic / expensive but very good, at extended oil frequencies.

Now all I run:
a) Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 Synthetic / made from clean Natural Gas, as base stock / on-line reviews are fantastic.
- Walmart.com has 5qt jugs, at $27.88 US / free shipping to specified store
b) Amsoil has one of the best synthetic media oil filters, but pricey.
FYI - WIX makes Amsoil premium filters, their Platium XP series / so buy the WIX 51516XP, at RockAuto.com
- larger capacity one, that used in older Land Crusiers
c) Amsoil Severe Gear oil SAE 75w-90 is my top choice
d) Also I use Amsoil Racing Grease / due to extended oil changes.

^^ Easily expect to get 8,000 mile oil changes (or 13,000 Km.) / while the used oil still maintains a clean honey color.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the fluid spec advice. I've learned the quality fluids and maintenance can make vehicle last.
Particular trans fluid they should run ?

And thanks for the welcome and advice everyone. Like I said I've been a die hard Ford guy but now I am driving a Toyota that I never expected.
Everyone in the 4R has been very helpful and welcoming and I appreciate any future help
 
jmferg - I just edited my post #7 / take a look...with valuable fluid specs. & capacity links.
- you'll now find it hard, to stay a Ford guy / bitten by the over-Engineered Japanese bug !!

I use to be a GM guy, driving over 40 years / but nothing new, Big3 interests me.
- Last year we got our first Toyota / a mint 2008 RAV4 v6, for the wife / 269 HP rocket ship, with 4x4 for winter (if needed).
- Our son went from a 2008 Nissan Rouge to a brand new 2015 Lexus RX350, in Dec.
- January of this year, this dad found his pride & joy in a 2000 4Runner v6 4x4 / replacing a 2005 Jimmy.
^^ All 3 vehicles black / another first here...LOL.
Cheers / Larry
 
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Just an update
Truck is going to the Toyota dealer for some warranty work.
They are going to look at the heater core(my diagnosis)
Smells like coolant, loosing some coolant but not burning it or leaking on the ground.
They are also replacing the timing belt, WP, and t stat.

Last night I changed the oil and and air filter.
I installed an AFE dry filter and am disappointed with the fitment.

The old oil looked great but the filter was terrible. I think the previous shop had been changing the oil and not the filter.... btw how are people fitting the larger diameter filter on the 3.4? The smaller size oemcanister is almost touching the motor mount.
Next will be a Toyota MAF sensor, change the filter, fluid and cooler on the trans, axles and t-Case fluid
Then suspension work will be next.
 
Can we see some pics of this thing? I am a new owner myself and have a bit of work to do to get mine back to reasonable shape - sounds like yours is a cherry!
 
OEM LBJ's! Don't have a look at them, but instead replace them. With 136k on it they need to be replaced if they haven't already been. These are supposed to be good until 100k I believe. I would just plan on doing them when you do your lift.
 
Diagnosis
Pinhole in radiator that only leaked under higher engine load.
The want almost $900 to replace and won't cover it under warranty.

I'm picking it up tomorrow to complete this myself.what brand radiator do you guys suggest. Does anyone sell a full alum aftermarket upgrade?
 
jmferg said:
Diagnosis
Pinhole in radiator that only leaked under higher engine load.
The want almost $900 to replace and won't cover it under warranty.

I'm picking it up tomorrow to complete this myself.what brand radiator do you guys suggest. Does anyone sell a full alum aftermarket upgrade?
Click to expand...

Some guys go with Koyo or Denso. I chose to by an OEM one through Camelback Toyota. $210. $900 to replace a radiator is a joke. It's very simple to replace. You rattled off quite a few things you were planning to do on your truck and it sounds like you are leaning towards paying a shop to do some of it. I'm guessing that a timing belt job at a Toyota dealership is going to cost you a small fortune. There's a ton of information available for our 3rd Gens that will allow you to do most of the repairs yourself it you have the time and patience to tackle them.

I'll start you off with a video I made of installing an external trans cooler and replacing the radiator and thermostat at the same time.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2nVbwe2t2T8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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