New Shocks and Ride is Horrible

[jsindorf]

I have a 99 T4R Limited, 4wd, 260,000 miles...

The suspension is basically original, with the exception of new sway bar links at 129,000 and new rear shocks at 167,000.

Last week, I noticed some clanking from the rear suspension when going over a bump. I found the right rear shock was broken (top mount stud was snapped off). I was swamped and a mechanic friend helped me out by replacing the rear shocks for me with new OEM shocks from Toyota.

I'm surprised that the ride is much worse than before the new shocks were installed, and there is much more clanking.

I asked my friend what he thinks it might be -- he said the shocks went in with no problem, but that he had to reuse the bottom bushings since Toyota didn't supply new bushings with the new shocks.

I have ordered new bushings for the bottom mount of the shocks. Is there anything else I should check or replace? This has the original "tall" coil springs. Should those get changed? Should I go OEM or OME?

I really want to fix this... it is really horrible.
Thanks!

 

[tx_shooter]

With that kind of mileage you should also check your link bushings. My upper control arms for the rear axle were shot and allowed some play/ popping. I replaced them with the Whiteline bushings and the problem was resolved.

But I would recommend checking the upper and lower arms while you are under there.

 

[dogbreath650]

If the ride got considerably worse with the only change being new shocks then I would think the new shocks are the cause since that's the only variable.
I'd check to see if your mech has the part number from the new shocks to verify they were OEM and spec'd for your vehicle. The clanking may or may not be contributing to the worse ride but if the noise was the same as before and the only thing you did was replace shocks, I'd think it's the shocks.

 

[Kanoe]

Those shock tops are tough to get at. I’d make sure your friend put all the appropriate rubbers and washers in the proper positions and that he got it tight enough. I think the shocks come without new top hardware also correct?

If anything is amiss up there you’ll get clanking.

 

[Vansnxtweek]

If the ride got considerably worse with the only change being new shocks then I would think the new shocks are the cause since that's the only variable.
I'd check to see if your mech has the part number from the new shocks to verify they were OEM and spec'd for your vehicle. The clanking may or may not be contributing to the worse ride but if the noise was the same as before and the only thing you did was replace shocks, I'd think it's the shocks.

Those shock tops are tough to get at. I’d make sure your friend put all the appropriate rubbers and washers in the proper positions and that he got it tight enough. I think the shocks come without new top hardware also correct?

If anything is amiss up there you’ll get clanking.

Agreed. Those things are such a pain. I bet something ain't right up there in the shock buckets where the sun don't shine.

 

[FordF150]

I went with AM shocks in my GMC Jimmy and the ride sucked.
I would not change from OEM on any 4runner.:rockthrow:

4runner shocks can last 400,000 miles

 

[Devbot]

I went with AM shocks in my GMC Jimmy and the ride sucked.
I would not change from OEM on any 4runner.:rockthrow:

4runner shocks can last 400,000 miles

I call total bullshit unless proven otherwise. If they were that durable nobody would stray from them and you would see them being used on plenty other Toyotas, and would be probably one of the most sought after shocks ever produced if they outlast the total lifespan of most vehicles.

 

[Brian.]

4runner shocks can last 400,000 miles

lol....

Standard shocks use oil for their damping, that oil fails with Both age and heat. A completely unused shock will be trash in 10~15 years (unless specially preserved in some climate controlled space), a frequently used shock will be trash in a few years (think endless washboards). Most vehicle fall somewhere in the middle, 5~7 years of acceptable use and about 100k miles.

Not saying a shock can't function for 400k miles, it just needs frequent oil changes. I'm sure that can even be done on the 4runner OEM shocks, but I doubt Anyone, anywhere, has ever bothered. It's simply not cost effective.

At the extreme end, like national level racing, shock oil is refreshed 2 or 3 times a season ~ roughly every 500 miles. I know this because it was my job for awhile, and I'm certified by a few shock manufactures to rebuild their shocks.


The OEM's I pulled off my '99 with 192k miles were beyond dead. There was zero damping going on, exactly as expected.

 

[nissanh]

The quality of suspension is NOT just Shockabsorbers and coil springs. I recently did a complete suspension bushing replacement all around (except pan-hard bar: Cannot find OEM bushings for it). Used OEM bushings and the ride quality is identical to my newly acquired 21 Tacoma. I did not change the suspension setup (shocks/coil) during this process.

A lot of interior noise is completely gone with the bushing replacement and I feel driving a 21 4runner!

 

[alia176]

As stated previously, when it's to renew worn out suspension components, attention should be placed on ALL components. These includes all bushings, including sway bars and sway bar end links. It's a systematic approach to brings new life to an aging rig.

My daughter and I got done replacing her springs, shocks and sway bar end link bushings. This new to her ride drove like a Cadillac, floaty and severe amount of body pitching when going over speed bumps and driveways. Now, she rides firmer and with control. Still, we have a long way to go.

 

[snydmax]

Agreed. Those things are such a pain. I bet something ain't right up there in the shock buckets where the sun don't shine.

^^^^^ Check this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jsindorf]

Thanks Matt,
This is what I was thinking I'd end up doing... new oem shocks, and all of the bushings.
How tough was it to change all of those bushings?

 

[turnstylz]

+1 to check rear control arm bushings, esp at 260K. I'm at 270K and just finished replacing all suspension bushings all the way around. If it's a bushing and for suspension, it's been replaced. The rear lower arms were so bad I could literally see through the front and rear of the bushings, i.e. nothing left. I found it didn't make sense to worry about dealing with pressing out old bushings and just ordered all new lower arms, upper arms, and panhard bar, all come with new bushings. The uppers and panhard bushings were still decent, but the lower bushings were trashed.

 

[Zoom-a-Loom]

It's the bushings been through this dilemma and USE OEM bushings

 

[jsindorf]

Ok, so it looks like I am changing out bushings (and other pieces).
Is there a recommended order to doing this -- and for now let's just focus on the rear.
Where should I start?

 

[Devbot]

Ok, so it looks like I am changing out bushings (and other pieces).
Is there a recommended order to doing this -- and for now let's just focus on the rear.
Where should I start?

All bushings in the rear or just those related to the shocks?
If the former, when doing trailing arms you should only remove one at a time to prevent the axle from radically shifting out of place. Even in doing this you'll probably notice it shifted maybe an inch or two and still need to break out the ratchet straps to help re-align the axle and get the arms back in place. Just the nature of 4 link. Regard Tim's videos on how to remove the sleeve from the lower links.