New to me 2004 4Runner Limited V8 4WD, Issues

[lj4r]

I picked up a 2004 Limited V8 4WD. It has 121k on the odometer. I have no history other than an oil change sticker from November, 2017 (I think that it was owned by a Marine at Camp Pendleton here in San Diego, has a Marine sticker on the back and I found a gas receipt from the base under the seat). Semper Fi!

The truck looks like it has been well taken care of. It had been in a hail storm and has damage on the hood and roof, must have been some storm. It runs really well, drives straight and everything works. It has an aftermarket Pioneer stereo with the disco changing lights, it works well, has lots of features, but I hate the multicolored lights....
It also came with the oem stereo. Everything works, all windows, seats, switches, tools were included too.


Issues:

1. Torn drivers side seat bolster (leather seats), is it best to have it repaired, $150 or order the seat bottom off of ebay, a seller in Utah has the leather bottom for $170. Looks to be an easy off and on, looks can be deceiving.
2. Torn CV Boots, inner and outer on driver's side, outer on passenger side, no noise from either side, throwing lots of grease on driver's side, probably a recent tear.
3. No timing belt change sticker.....dang, I removed the inspection cover and inspected the belt, it looked soft and supple, Mitsuboshi brand, CD298 no date or other markings indicating whether it was an original or a replacement, no apparent cracks or unusual wear.
4. O2 sensor throwing code P0031. New O2 sensor is on order, Bank 1, Sensor 1
5. Occasional slight hesitation and then a clunk when starting up from a California Stop, usually when I step on it a bit. Is it best to drain and fill the transmission (I know that it only changes about 30% of fluid will change) or do a fluid exchange?
6. VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights are on. They shut off after I turn the truck off, but the minute I put it in gear and move a foot, they come back on. Gas cap seems tight.

2004 4Runner 121,000 miles Dark Grey, grey leather interior

 

[RonJR]

Can't answer all of your questions, but a couple of things.
5.) the clunk most likely means the drive shaft needs greasing. Crawl under and liberally grease the slide yoke, and put about 6 shots into each u-joint. Common problem.
6.) When the ECU throws an engine code, it will typically also light the VSC and TRAC lights. The reason is those functions are tied closely to engine performance, and with the engine in limp mode, Toyota doesn't want to guarantee VSC and TRAC will still work correctly, so they turn those functions off and light the lights. Wait until you get the O2 sensor problem fixed, and then see if they go away. If they don't, try a zero point calibration (search this forum for how to do that.)

 

[Flash Runner]

Sounds like you got a pretty nice ride, hope you enjoy it!

1) that seems like a great deal...I'd do that over just fixing it..you get a new cushion too!

2) as you mentioned, no noise, means its not an immediate issue if you're spreading these repairs out.

5)second what RonJr said..... heres a link to it Thud Fix

 

[Johns06yota]

I picked up a 2004 Limited V8 4WD. It has 121k on the odometer. I have no history other than an oil change sticker from November, 2017 (I think that it was owned by a Marine at Camp Pendleton here in San Diego, has a Marine sticker on the back and I found a gas receipt from the base under the seat). Semper Fi!

The truck looks like it has been well taken care of. It had been in a hail storm and has damage on the hood and roof, must have been some storm. It runs really well, drives straight and everything works. It has an aftermarket Pioneer stereo with the disco changing lights, it works well, has lots of features, but I hate the multicolored lights....
It also came with the oem stereo. Everything works, all windows, seats, switches, tools were included too.


Issues:

1. Torn drivers side seat bolster (leather seats), is it best to have it repaired, $150 or order the seat bottom off of ebay, a seller in Utah has the leather bottom for $170. Looks to be an easy off and on, looks can be deceiving.
2. Torn CV Boots, inner and outer on driver's side, outer on passenger side, no noise from either side, throwing lots of grease on driver's side, probably a recent tear.
3. No timing belt change sticker.....dang, I removed the inspection cover and inspected the belt, it looked soft and supple, Mitsuboshi brand, CD298 no date or other markings indicating whether it was an original or a replacement, no apparent cracks or unusual wear.
4. O2 sensor throwing code P0031. New O2 sensor is on order, Bank 1, Sensor 1
5. Occasional slight hesitation and then a clunk when starting up from a California Stop, usually when I step on it a bit. Is it best to drain and fill the transmission (I know that it only changes about 30% of fluid will change) or do a fluid exchange?
6. VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights are on. They shut off after I turn the truck off, but the minute I put it in gear and move a foot, they come back on. Gas cap seems tight.

2004 4Runner 121,000 miles Dark Grey, grey leather interior

To answer your questions.

to replace the leather for the bottom portion is very simple. Took me maybe 15 minutes once the seat is out of the car.

Make sure when you have the cv axles replaced that the place knows what they are doing. I am currently dealing with issues that a shop caused during that repair.

better to be safe than sorry so if it were me I would go ahead and have the timing belt done as I believe these engines are interference which would cause major damage if it broke

I agree that the clunk is most likely drive shafts that need to be greased. Not knowing the history of the vehicle makes me think a transmission drain and refill would also be a good idea.

The hesitation may be caused by soiled spark plugs. I would start there along with a new air filter and cleaning the MAF. also check the rubber vacuum lines because if they are dry rotted it could cause some hesitation as well.

These things above may also solve your dash lights issue. Also autozone or advance auto both do free diagnostics scans so you may want to do that first to see if there is anything that just jumps out as an issue

 

[matt922]

In the middle of replacing my timing belt now. The original with ~85k miles has no markings on mine, but the Aisin kit does come with a Mitsubishi brand belt, not sure how long the white type stays on the belt though.

 

[lj4r]

O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 replaced. Check engine light is out! VCS lights are still on. I ordered a Denso O2 sensor through amazon. $45. 2 day delivery. I mistakingly removed the downstream O2 sensor. Put the new one in and became immediately frustrated that the wrong plug was attached and it was too short. After ten minutes I discovered my error. I quickly swapped out the bank 1 sensor 1 and plugged it in. Cleared the code and victory was mine!

Outer CV boot on the drivers side is making a huge mess grease has flung everywhere.

Just filled up the gas tank. I got 15 mpg combined, spirited driving.

Thanks for all of the suggestions. Phil

 

[Terminator03]

O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 replaced. Check engine light is out! VCS lights are still on. I ordered a Denso O2 sensor through amazon. $45. 2 day delivery. I mistakingly removed the downstream O2 sensor. Put the new one in and became immediately frustrated that the wrong plug was attached and it was too short. After ten minutes I discovered my error. I quickly swapped out the bank 1 sensor 1 and plugged it in. Cleared the code and victory was mine!

Outer CV boot on the drivers side is making a huge mess grease has flung everywhere.

Just filled up the gas tank. I got 15 mpg combined, spirited driving.

Thanks for all of the suggestions. Phil

Is bank 1, sensor1 the driver’s side upper sensor?

 

[lj4r]

Bank 1 sensor 1 upper on drivers side. Yes.

 

[RonJR]

Just to expand on that. On the V8, bank 1 is driver's side. On the V6, bank 1 is passenger side.

 

[Terminator03]

Bank 1 sensor 1 upper on drivers side. Yes.

Just to expand on that. On the V8, bank 1 is driver's side. On the V6, bank 1 is passenger side.

Thanks, that’s what I thought but wanted to be sure. Most vehicles I’ve dealt with have been passenger side for bank 1.

 

[UURunner]

Just to expand on that. On the V8, bank 1 is driver's side. On the V6, bank 1 is passenger side.

mother ****er


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[970mtnrunner]

1- My drivers seat is torn as well. I ended up putting coverking seat covers on mine, charcoal color, just to change the look.
2- You can get both CV axles for about $250 total. You have to pull them to replace the boots, which is a messy PITA job. I just swap them out when the boots go. Currently have the Napa MaxDrive axles and no issues so far.
3- At that mileage I doubt its been changed. I went 220k with the original belt. They dont show the signs of wear like a serpentine belt. When you get the old one off and bend it you can really see the stress cracks. I had mine done at a dealer who had a timing belt special going on. $850 including a new water pump and done in 5 hours.
4- new O2 sensor
5- If you have a trans dipstick under the hood, you can do a fluid exchange yourself very easily. The sealed ones are slightly more of a PITA to refill. You can run 12 qts of Amsoil thru it yourself for the cost of a flush at a shop.
Also, change both diffs and t-case too. 6 qts of 75w/90 gear oil will do all three.
6- My first guess is the zero point calibration needs to be reset. 03-04 4runners have a tendency to lose this calibration when connected to a code reader. I had to redo mine a couple times when connecting a scanguage. Obviously a scanner was connected to find out about the O2 sensor. There are write ups and youtube vids on how to do it.
The only other maintenance I would suggest is new spark plugs and clean the mass air flow sensor. I just this on mine after 100k and about 5 years and it made a noticeable difference.

 

[lj4r]

Zero point calibration worked like a charm. Vcs lights are off, cel is off. The YouTube video on the zero calibration was very helpful. Took about five minutes, including putting some wires together to complete the reset.

The truck is equipped with xreas suspension. It is functioning but seems a little soft. I just picked up a set of shocks, struts and springs off of a 2017 4runner. I plan on adding the suspension swap to the list. We have used fj cruiser suspensions on our other 4Runners and found the ride and performance to be terrific. I am hoping that the new 4runner suspension will provide similar results. Phil

 

[Terminator03]

Zero point calibration worked like a charm. Vcs lights are off, cel is off. The YouTube video on the zero calibration was very helpful. Took about five minutes, including putting some wires together to complete the reset.

The truck is equipped with xreas suspension. It is functioning but seems a little soft. I just picked up a set of shocks, struts and springs off of a 2017 4runner. I plan on adding the suspension swap to the list. We have used fj cruiser suspensions on our other 4Runners and found the ride and performance to be terrific. I am hoping that the new 4runner suspension will provide similar results. Phil

That’s awesome that the calibration worked! Would you mind linking the video that you used?

 

[Bluesky 07]

About the hail damage, I highly recommend paintless dent repair. Years ago, my Xterra got absolutely pummeled by a Texas hailstorm. Hood, roof, and top of the hatch looked like the surface of a king-sized golf ball. It was still nearly new so I couldn’t stomach the thought of a body shop grinding away the paint.

Went PDR and I’m not kidding, you couldn’t tell anything had happened to it. I was frankly stunned by the results vs. my expectations, especially since the truck was black.

It also cost $600 less than the traditional repair. Win-win!

 

[lj4r]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rUA5Qko-v6A


It was posted by bullseyenate 231.

I found another hood and grill with original paint for $200. Paintless is a great suggestion. I will check it out.

Phil

 

[Terminator03]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rUA5Qko-v6A


It was posted by bullseyenate 231.

I found another hood and grill with original paint for $200. Paintless ia a great suggestion. I will orice it out.

Phil

Thanks Phil, I’m going to give that a shot before I start throwing parts at it. As for the PDR, I second that recommendation. I’ve had it done on a couple of cars, one of which was a pristine black ‘03 Terminator Cobra (where my screen name came from). Anyway, during a supercharger swap, I somehow got a little ding/dent in the top of a front fender, despite being covered in blankets while I was working. Being black, it showed big time! Not only was the guy able to make that completely go away, he managed to fix some factory flaws in the sheet metal of the sides of the fender, and a ding on the door some a-hole did in a parking lot. With the special light they use, flaws that you can’t normally see are very visible, so it really allows them to get it perfect. My wife’s brand new Camry had tons of acorn hits, which are very similar to hail damage, and they were able to completely remove those without a trace as well.

 

[lj4r]

I checked with a paintless dent guy that I know, for the hood alone, he said that it would be around $1,000. dang. The truck is metallica grey mica. There are several variations of that color even within the same year. I am hoping that the new hood will be close.......

I checked the air pressure in the tires today, 49 front left, 24 front right, 25 rear left, 47 rear right. Got them all at 32, amazing how the ride is better!

Phil