New, Used, or Aftermarket Driveshaft?

[doofenshmirtz]

2WD V8. I replaced u-joints on my driveshaft in January. Fast forward to this weekend, and I tracked down the source of a driveline vibration that has returned as bad as ever. My rearmost u-joint is toast AGAIN after maybe 1500 miles.

There's a good likelihood that the flange ears are scored or out of round on the driveshaft itself. Diagnostics could end up being more expensive than a new part - and leave me without a working vehicle in the meantime. This is why a lot of dealers just quote a new driveshaft. I'm coming around to that diagnosis after basically blowing $60 on u-joints 40ish days ago.. I also ended up having to get a shop to finish the install, so I've spent over half the price of a new shaft without actually fixing anything.

So, onto replacing the driveshaft.

1. A new OEM driveshaft is ~$375 after shipping. None of my local dealers give good prices.
2. A Used (from a wreck) driveshaft can be had for ~$100.
3. A Dorman New driveshaft is ~$350.

The new OEM driveshaft should be mint. Zero wear and tear and pre-balanced; however, the flange ears aren't really designed for the u-joints to be a serviceable item (see: this post and others). They last a long time, though. OEM is always a preference.

A used/salvage driveshaft may not be balanced anymore and may have worn u-joints, so I could get nothing of value - again. It could be a useful diagnostic tool if it eliminates the current driveline vibration but causes one at a different speed. That would confirm the driveshaft is absolutely the source. Is that worth $100 - probably not.

A Dorman driveshaft has u-joint flanges designed for easy service/replacement, is 100% new, and is pre-balanced; however, it's Dorman. I've not purchased anything from them before, and I'm unsure what the QC and overall quality is for them. The video they produced does show the parts being press fit, welded together, and balanced. If I received one exactly as shown in their video, I would be pleased. Dunno what the reality vs. expectation is for them.

Tom Woods driveshafts are not an option. They don't make 2WD Toyota driveshafts, or I would have already made that decision.

Anyone have opinions on what to do here? The 4runner is paid off, and I'm keeping this vehicle indefinitely, so I can afford to think long term.

 

[63PGP]

I've had better luck replacing many parts with OEM and they last. Most aftermarket parts just don't last anymore.

Start with this link. I've purchased quite a few items from this site.

2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner Drive Shaft 37110-3D540 | TRDShop.com

I didn't see a year so I just entered a year that had a V8 2wd.

 

[Bumbo]

I would be very tempted to go with a used units off a parts car.

 

[doofenshmirtz]

I've had better luck replacing many parts with OEM and they last. Most aftermarket parts just don't last anymore.

Start with this link. I've purchased quite a few items from this site.

2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner Drive Shaft 37110-3D540 | TRDShop.com

I didn't see a year so I just entered a year that had a V8 2wd.

That’s the correct part. They’ve also got the best price I’ve seen yet. Plus they have a 5% off code. $328 delivered to my house isn’t bad for the surest bet to work out of the gate.

 

[rdruss]

That’s the correct part. They’ve also got the best price I’ve seen yet. Plus they have a 5% off code. $328 delivered to my house isn’t bad for the surest bet to work out of the gate.

You'd be foolish to do anything but this based on your criteria!

 

[doofenshmirtz]

You'd be foolish to do anything but this based on your criteria!

That's how I'm leaning. Gonna sleep on it tonight.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I bought one from ebay for $90 with 112k miles. I didn't end up installing it but I thought it was a pretty good deal if you can find one for similar.

 

[doofenshmirtz]

The OEM driveshaft is backordered for over 90 days.

I've checked with Autozone about their warranty and return policy for the Dorman driveshaft. If I purchase it and it's out of balance or otherwise unacceptable, they'll exchange or return it. That's likely better than I'd get from Toyota honestly...

They even said if it damages other parts due to failure, that they'll pay the parts and labor for fixing it, but I'd wager that they'd do a lot of fighting to blame it on something else...

The Dorman one is in stock and can be delivered in 1 week. I can return it locally if I have any issues. Dorman themselves have a lifetime limited warranty, so I figure it's worth a shot. If it works, it works. If it doesn't, then I can get my money back.

 

[rdruss]

Sounds like a win/win, go for it!

 

[AuSeeker]

2WD V8. I replaced u-joints on my driveshaft in January. Fast forward to this weekend, and I tracked down the source of a driveline vibration that has returned as bad as ever. My rearmost u-joint is toast AGAIN after maybe 1500 miles.

There's a good likelihood that the flange ears are scored or out of round on the driveshaft itself. Diagnostics could end up being more expensive than a new part - and leave me without a working vehicle in the meantime. This is why a lot of dealers just quote a new driveshaft. I'm coming around to that diagnosis after basically blowing $60 on u-joints 40ish days ago.. I also ended up having to get a shop to finish the install, so I've spent over half the price of a new shaft without actually fixing anything.

So, onto replacing the driveshaft.

1. A new OEM driveshaft is ~$375 after shipping. None of my local dealers give good prices.
2. A Used (from a wreck) driveshaft can be had for ~$100.
3. A Dorman New driveshaft is ~$350.

The new OEM driveshaft should be mint. Zero wear and tear and pre-balanced; however, the flange ears aren't really designed for the u-joints to be a serviceable item (see: this post and others). They last a long time, though. OEM is always a preference.

A used/salvage driveshaft may not be balanced anymore and may have worn u-joints, so I could get nothing of value - again. It could be a useful diagnostic tool if it eliminates the current driveline vibration but causes one at a different speed. That would confirm the driveshaft is absolutely the source. Is that worth $100 - probably not.

A Dorman driveshaft has u-joint flanges designed for easy service/replacement, is 100% new, and is pre-balanced; however, it's Dorman. I've not purchased anything from them before, and I'm unsure what the QC and overall quality is for them. The video they produced does show the parts being press fit, welded together, and balanced. If I received one exactly as shown in their video, I would be pleased. Dunno what the reality vs. expectation is for them.

Tom Woods driveshafts are not an option. They don't make 2WD Toyota driveshafts, or I would have already made that decision.

Anyone have opinions on what to do here? The 4runner is paid off, and I'm keeping this vehicle indefinitely, so I can afford to think long term.

That’s the correct part. They’ve also got the best price I’ve seen yet. Plus they have a 5% off code. $328 delivered to my house isn’t bad for the surest bet to work out of the gate.

That's how I'm leaning. Gonna sleep on it tonight.

The OEM driveshaft is backordered for over 90 days.

I've checked with Autozone about their warranty and return policy for the Dorman driveshaft. If I purchase it and it's out of balance or otherwise unacceptable, they'll exchange or return it. That's likely better than I'd get from Toyota honestly...

They even said if it damages other parts due to failure, that they'll pay the parts and labor for fixing it, but I'd wager that they'd do a lot of fighting to blame it on something else...

The Dorman one is in stock and can be delivered in 1 week. I can return it locally if I have any issues. Dorman themselves have a lifetime limited warranty, so I figure it's worth a shot. If it works, it works. If it doesn't, then I can get my money back.

Here's another local option NAPA also sells a Lifetime warranty driveshaft..."NAPA Solutions" brand...for $335.99.

Also if you happen to have AAA they offer a 20% discount.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NSO70009481?partTypeName=Driveshaft&keywordInput=driveshaft

 

[thennen]

I personally would weigh the answers to these questions when making my decision:

1. How many miles did the original last?

2. How long do I plan to keep the truck?

3. Is my cash savings on non-OEM significant enough to give it a shot? (keep in mind, I have to replace any part that fails under warranty, which is why aftermarket parts warranties matter little to me).

Best wishes!

 

[Drunner97]

Or the option no one else has mentioned, take the OEM to a drive line shop and get it resleeved, new u joints, and balanced.

 

[AuSeeker]

Or the option no one else has mentioned, take the OEM to a drive line shop and get it resleeved, new u joints, and balanced.

I had thoughts along the same line, but I assumed that he didn't have another vehicle to use so he needed a replacement so he wouldn't be without a vehicle except while doing the R&R of the driveshaft.

 

[Drunner97]

I had thoughts along the same line, but I assumed that he didn't have another vehicle to use so he needed a replacement so he wouldn't be without a vehicle except while doing the R&R of the driveshaft.

I can only vouch for the one my buddy goes to, but they typically have it done same day. He does have another vehicle though.

 

[Ida4runner]

How do the U joints fail? are the needle bearing getting pulverized?

 

[doofenshmirtz]

I can only vouch for the one my buddy goes to, but they typically have it done same day. He does have another vehicle though.

None of the local driveline shops come well recommended. I’ve got a few coworkers who race dirt track / local stock cars and they don’t trust the local shops to do a good job for a good price.

TBH, if the Dorman one is good enough to drive on but not good enough to keep, I may travel to a better shop to get the factory one rebuilt. I have no idea how expensive that would end up being, though. I’ll likely need everything except the main shaft replaced, so I dunno if that’s worth the hassle.

 

[doofenshmirtz]

New driveshaft came in, and I installed it at lunch today. One odd thing is that the length of the shaft is maybe .5" to 1" shorter than the stock one, but the slip yoke end is probably equally longer than the factory one. All this is doing, theoretically, is increasing the operating angle of the u-joints, so I'm going to see how it goes. This doesn't have the forward facing "cap" section to prevent the slip yoke from being exposed, but I don't guess that's a big deal.

My driveline vibrations at speeds over 80mph are completely gone, so I know the driveshaft is balanced as well as I'll need. I rarely go more than 65 since I don't need to use the interstate much.

The drive is much smoother overall, but I guess I've narrowed down a nagging shudder/vibration at 45mph to the torque converter or 3rd member. That's my only real complaint on the whole car at this point. I do have some better riding shocks that I want, but I drive 45mph a lot. It's annoying to have that one speed just vibrate through the floor and pedal.

I'm going to do a stall speed test to check out the torque converter, but I can't seem to locate the factory stall speed :/

 

[AuSeeker]

New driveshaft came in, and I installed it at lunch today. One odd thing is that the length of the shaft is maybe .5" to 1" shorter than the stock one, but the slip yoke end is probably equally longer than the factory one. All this is doing, theoretically, is increasing the operating angle of the u-joints, so I'm going to see how it goes. This doesn't have the forward facing "cap" section to prevent the slip yoke from being exposed, but I don't guess that's a big deal.

My driveline vibrations at speeds over 80mph are completely gone, so I know the driveshaft is balanced as well as I'll need. I rarely go more than 65 since I don't need to use the interstate much.

The drive is much smoother overall, but I guess I've narrowed down a nagging shudder/vibration at 45mph to the torque converter or 3rd member. That's my only real complaint on the whole car at this point. I do have some better riding shocks that I want, but I drive 45mph a lot. It's annoying to have that one speed just vibrate through the floor and pedal.

I'm going to do a stall speed test to check out the torque converter, but I can't seem to locate the factory stall speed :/

I don't know what the stall speed is for the 4th Gens, but I have read that in general the basic stall speed for most auto transmissions is 500 to 700 RPM under the RPM for maximum engine torque.

 

[doofenshmirtz]

I don't know what the stall speed is for the 4th Gens, but I have read that in general the basic stall speed for most auto transmissions is 500 to 700 RPM under the RPM for maximum engine torque.

I found it. 2,250 to 2550rpm. I went down a GIGANTIC torque converter rabbit hole from tacomaworld.