Newbie needs help with mods. Lots of questions.

REVELC

New member
Updated: I guess I'm starting a build slow thread.

I recently purchased a 98 SR5 4x4 manual. I LOVE IT. I can definitely see myself keeping it for 10 years.
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Anyways..

We really don't have a ton of money but my wife supports my hobbies.

I have a few mods in mind.

I just don't know which order would be best.

Here are my needs.

I ride am an avid enduro rider so I'll be using it to pull a little trailer to remote riding areas adound Moab, Colorado, and Arkansas.

EDIT: Since wheeling with some awesome people I'm considering giving up Enduro and selling my bike to fund my build. Im the main provider and I don't want to wrap myself around a tree again.

Everyone weve met in the trails have been great and I feel like it's something great I can share with the family.

It will also be my DD. So I don't want to go over 32" tires. And would like a nice comfortable ride.
Edit: Considering 255/85R16s for next tires.

I've already gotten stuck and had to be yanked out twice since I got it a month ago. So I assume tires and lockers are a must.


We have lots of deer and iron rocks out here so I'm thinking a bumper with a stinger it's justifiable.

I will have about 75lbs in tools, 25lbs in recovery gear, and other basic camping gear in the back on trips. But will usually remain unloaded.

If I can save money, great.


I had an old Wagoneer with welded diffs and it was never a problem for me. Is this a bad idea with the lighter 4runner?




Im still not familiar with modding things for off road and dont have people to bounce ideas off of.


I'm eyeballing the Sonoran Steel kits as they seem to have the best ride quality, ARB front bumper, and lincoln locking the diffs.

Any input is appreciated. And yes, I can use the search function.



Update 4/15/15

Did maintenance doodly diddly:

Replaced:
Spark plugs
Timing belt
Water pump
Flushed radiator
Checked ball joints
Adjusted clutch

Some tall grass got caught up around my passenger CV boot. It started leaking after I pulled it out. Guess I need to repack and put new clamps on it.

http://youtu.be/gDb0aAWD6qQ
I went ahead and got a set of 265/75R16's Goodyear MTR Kevlars and love them. Quiet on the road but they sling clay really well when you give it the gas. Will report back with longevity.
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Also called around about lifts. Became a Toytec distributor since we've been talking about lifts at work.
I'll give anyone a member T4R discount but you must PM me. I CANNOT advertise price of its below what they advertise.


After talking to Mike I ordered the BOSS lift with Superflex and Bilstien 5100's, extended brake line, extended e brak, and panhard drop kit. I'm excited and nervous all at once. How do these ride on the road?

Would lunchbox lockers in front and rear be a bad idea?

I'm hoping I can have it ready for the Lone Star Jamboree. I live an hour from Barnwell and would love to come out and meet some fellow Yota Pilots.
 
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Have you addressed all the possible maintence/safety issues that come with 3rd gen 4runners first? I say this not to rain on your parade, but these truck have some very common issues that are critical, e.g., lower ball joints and corroded transmission cooler lines. If not addressed properly, you could possibly have a catastrophic failure in the near future. Best to get that stuff out of the way now before you invest too much in other stuff.
 
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Maintenance first, a proper tune-up will be a few hundred in parts.

After that get some All terrain tires. I would be hesitant to throw lockers in your DD if they are not the selectable type ($$$$). Auto lockers are not fun to DD. 99% of offroad situations can be handled with decent tires, a good line, and throttle control. Get that down before you rely on a locker, they can become a crutch and prevent you from getting better at driving. You definitely do not want to DD a truck with welded diffs though.

After tires, a decent suspension should be all you really need. If you plan to pull a trailer, not the best idea to load the truck down with body armor.
 
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Maintenance first, a proper tune-up will be a few hundred in parts.

After that get some All terrain tires. I would be hesitant to throw lockers in your DD if they are not the selectable type ($$$$). Auto lockers are not fun to DD. 99% of offroad situations can be handled with decent tires, a good line, and throttle control. Get that down before you rely on a locker, they can become a crutch and prevent you from getting better at driving. You definitely do not want to DD a truck with welded diffs though.

After tires, a decent suspension should be all you really need. If you plan to pull a trailer, not the best idea to load the truck down with body armor.

Thanks for the reply.

It's a manual so no cooler line issues to worry about.

I'm changing the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs tomorrow.

It's a 400lb trailer with a 240lb bike. Nothing too crazy.

I currently have Yoko Geolander AT's with 35% tread remaining.
We live on 20 acres with muddy ruts and a more aggressive tires are a must. I've had to pull it out twice already just on our property. There are areas in the woods that you cant pick a line on. You either make it through, or dont.

I'm thinking about KM2's as they tend to last and air down well. I just don't know if I want to go with 32" or 31" with stock suspension.
 
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As always, you want to make sure she's healthy first. Then, for your purposes, Look into a Tundra brake upgrade. In order to fit your tires, maybe go with a little taller spring, lots of options here, everything from relatively inexpensive spring swaps (like Land Cruiser coils or Tundra) to full on performance suspensions. These two upgrades will help you stop that trailer (stock brakes are a little undersized from the factory) and the stock springs really like to sag under load so a spring upgrade would be in your best interest anyway. I would recommend a rear E-locker swap if you just have to be locked. It wouldn't hurt anything, and you got fully selectable OEM quality, but it's probably gonna cost you six months budget. You may find yourself one at a wrecker for a steal though. A good heavy bumper with winch, and a well outfitted trail gear bag or box. Now you gotta rig that will go just about anywhere. Then think about what tires you want. I like KM2s also, or toyo MT's. The last thing you want is to find out you can't live without 33s right after you put 31s on it. Remember your only true lift is tire size. Considering how you want to use the truck, 33s sound perfect, and they will ride great.
 
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Don't put 31s on it. Put it on 32s now, they should fit the stock suspension fine. Replace the LBJs as well. And listen to everything everyone else here said, it's all good info. With the LBJs, timing belt, and no transmission cooler to worry about you should be pretty good on maintenance for a while. just change all your fluids now too.
 
Don't put 31s on it. Put it on 32s now, they should fit the stock suspension fine. Replace the LBJs as well. And listen to everything everyone else here said, it's all good info. With the LBJs, timing belt, and no transmission cooler to worry about you should be pretty good on maintenance for a while. just change all your fluids now too.

Ok 32"s it is.

I will check the LBJ's tomorrow when it's on the lift. Now that I'm thinking about it, it might have already had a LBJ failure because I noticed some new hardware underneath it. I'll definitely give it a good look over. I've read that is best to use OEM ball joints? Did the design change? How often should they be done?

Someone mentioned brakes. I did a VIN lookup and found mine came with the larger brake option that require 16" wheels. Are they not suited for pulling small loads with the oversized tires?

Whoever had it before me took really good care of it. The interior is IMMACULATE. No rips, scratches, tears, burns, or stains. I feel like it was well maintained. The exterior is fair. No scratches, dents, dings, or rust. The peeling clear coat and fading plastic headlight replacement make it look terrible though.


I don't want to change the diff fluids until I do the lockers. I'll check everything tomorrow there too.


Ok another question. Can I get away with just installing OME or Tundra/LC coils with my stock shocks or will they be maxed out as far as travel goes?

My shocks are ok but she's got a saggy ass and it also leans to the driver side, especially after filling up.
 
Pics. ......Moar pics!! Lol
Oem is the way to go with the lbj. Design never changed sadly but there are a few who went and designed their own upper and lower control arms and used uniball style instead of a ball joint.

Brakes will be fine for what you're doing. I would say in the future the tundra brake upgrade would be worth it for stopping power however

With the stock shocks you can't do the front with ome or anything unless it's the 99 talls. You can do the rear with the ome 906 springs only. The stock shocks will limit your travel however.
 
Pics. ......Moar pics!! Lol
Oem is the way to go with the lbj. Design never changed sadly but there are a few who went and designed their own upper and lower control arms and used uniball style instead of a ball joint.

Brakes will be fine for what you're doing. I would say in the future the tundra brake upgrade would be worth it for stopping power however

With the stock shocks you can't do the front with ome or anything unless it's the 99 talls. You can do the rear with the ome 906 springs only. The stock shocks will limit your travel however.
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I'll upload more soon but my phone is acting up.

Today I changed the timing belt, water pump, and belts. While taking the spark plugs out I noticed it had the wrong kind in it.

I went ahead and got the funky dual probes AND WOW! It runs like a champ now.

I was looking into supercharging this thing because of some stumbling under load, harder starts, and sluggish acceleration.

These plugs made a big difference in driveablility.


Mod number one is coming up in the next few weeks. I'm having a hard time choosing between a Sonoran Steel lift, OME lift, (people have mentioned cheap Toytec lifts but I can't find them), or a set of KM2's.

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Here's one of the places I got stuck.
 

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I would vote for the ome since you ride Enduro. Before I stick my foot in my mouth though is it pedal Enduro or the one with an engine lol.
 
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Here's my Enduro ride. 2012 WR450F

I'm usually the only person on the track with a lisence plate [emoji48]

And yes. I know I'm missing a handguard. They don't hold up well when I go flying at the local MX track when I'm training.
 
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Ok. I've narrowed down my lift options.

The Toytec Boss lift.
Or
The Sonoran Steel 1.2

Which has better on road manners?
 
I am a newbie also.

Just bought my first 4runner yesterday. a 2001 limited.

I was recommended this site from the tacomaworld members.

I guess I will have to do some research on the common issues some of you are mentioning that I invest in before converting my truck into an offroading machine.

1. Transmission cooler? (i heard there is an issue with the transmission oil overheating in the 3rd gens)

2. LBJ check/replace

3. Corroded transmission lines..any aftermarket ones that are good? or shall i stick with OEM?

hmm.. much research to do..:pop2:
 
I am a newbie also.

Just bought my first 4runner yesterday. a 2001 limited.

I was recommended this site from the tacomaworld members.

I guess I will have to do some research on the common issues some of you are mentioning that I invest in before converting my truck into an offroading machine.

1. Transmission cooler? (i heard there is an issue with the transmission oil overheating in the 3rd gens)

2. LBJ check/replace

3. Corroded transmission lines..any aftermarket ones that are good? or shall i stick with OEM?

hmm.. much research to do..[emoji14]op2:
From what I've read the mode of operations after buying a 3rd gen are as follows.

Remove running boards.

Check all fluids.

Do external tranny cooler mod if you have an auto.

Replace timing belt if you can't find service history.

Check/replace LBJs.

32" tires of your flavor.


Wheel it, break it, beef it up.

Lift? If you wanna.
 
So the SS is better than Toytec AND OME?

Yes, if you're looking for a softer more stock feel.

Here are some very informative threads that I used on making my SS purchase.
I bought the 7.2 for a good price from a member here who never installed it & picked up some 8 wraps for cheap. Otherwise I would have bought the 1.2.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/66976-3rd-gen-4runner-lift-information-faqs.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/67797-another-3-lift-decision-problem.html
 
Yes, if you're looking for a softer more stock feel.

Here are some very informative threads that I used on making my SS purchase.
I bought the 7.2 for a good price from a member here who never installed it & picked up some 8 wraps for cheap. Otherwise I would have bought the 1.2.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/66976-3rd-gen-4runner-lift-information-faqs.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/67797-another-3-lift-decision-problem.html

so you didn't use the coil springs that came with the kit?
 
so you didn't use the coil springs that came with the kit?
I'm using the TRD Tundra's for the front but not the OME 890X rears. I carry tools, a 12" Sub box & eventually a rear plate bumper with a 33" spare so I think the taller 8 wraps will give me a soft ride & still have a rake.
I'll probably sell the 890's when I've decided the 8 wraps are for me.
 

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