NEWBIE @ Towing

MikeBuzzsaw

New member
So I never towed anything before in my life and my main reason for getting a 4runner was to put the hitch to some good use!

What I be Towing in the future:
Jet Skis (either friends or rent one)
UHaul Car Carrier
UHaul Cargo Trailers (I have a bunch of stuff from storage Id like to move back)


It seems that the most common problem people have with towing with the 4runner is the sagging and getting the proper trailer hitch tongue? Airbags is a must yes? What about the electrical? I have a LMTD 4Runner so is the electrical already been setup?

Is there anything else I might possible need? I'm a complete newb and I've been searching the forums but a lot of setups around here is people who tow more than 3 times a year. I would only do it occasionally so I dont think I need an a crazy setup.


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Mike-

I tow quite a bit- at least once per week during the warmer months. I do have airbags, and a stainless drop-bar. While the 4runner does tend to sag due to the soft suspension, I think you will be fine if you just get a drop- bar and have at it! Your electronics are already in place and good to go . Just plug in your trailer and you're set.

I would be the first to recommend airbags, because they are so useful, even if you just load up the cargo area for a trip. They work awesome and prevent the saggy butt- but- you won't "need" them to tow occasionally.

Here's my airbag install...http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92013-antmans-thread.html#post806239
 
So I never towed anything before in my life and my main reason for getting a 4runner was to put the hitch to some good use!

What I be Towing in the future:
Jet Skis (either friends or rent one)
UHaul Car Carrier
UHaul Cargo Trailers (I have a bunch of stuff from storage Id like to move back)


It seems that the most common problem people have with towing with the 4runner is the sagging and getting the proper trailer hitch tongue? Airbags is a must yes? What about the electrical? I have a LMTD 4Runner so is the electrical already been setup?

Is there anything else I might possible need? I'm a complete newb and I've been searching the forums but a lot of setups around here is people who tow more than 3 times a year. I would only do it occasionally so I dont think I need an a crazy setup.


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you didnt say what year 4runner, I will assume 2011, I have an SR5 2011 I bought august 4th, on august 8th I hooked a u-haul cargo trailer and drove to Florida from maryland with about 1000lbs. I took it easy the first 200 miles or so and drove under the speed limit. I was traveling on a monday in light traffic on I-95 most of the way. It was the first time I had towed anything since 1998.
Best advice I can give is to stop periodically and check the hitch, do not tailgate and give yourself plenty of stopping room in front of you. Try to minimize lane changing, and dont go into places such as Resteraunt parking lots where there isnt room to manuver.

As far as what you need, there are 2 types of connectors, the flat and round, the 4 runner has both under the bumper on the left side. that location means you may need an extension cable to make the connection long enough. I also had some long zip ties to tie the cable to the hitch frame.

2" ball seems to be the most common. mine has a 2" drop.

there is one other thing, the drawbar fits kind of loose in the hitch receiver, this is normal, there are shim devices made to take up the slack so you dont hear a clunk when you are starting off, I just used some big washers to shim it.

that is all I can think of now. feel free to contact me with any questions.

EDIT: (UHAUL trailers do not have tongue jacks usually, those things with a little wheel that you crank to raise/lower the tongue) When renting a uhaul cargo trailer ex 4X8 if you back the trailer in and disconnect it before loading, make sure you have the tongue propped up on something so that you can re-connect it, I am not sure who would be absent minded enough to do this but sometimes people can be in a hurry, so they go ahead and load the trailer up with say 1000lbs of stuff then they go to pick up the tongue to re-connect it and the tongue weight is now 200+ lbs. You may have trouble lifting it. I don't know anyone who would be foolish enough to do this, but if it were to happen, you may want to run to Harbor Freight and Tools and purchase a 29 dollar tongue jack and install it (4 bolts) while you are using the uhaul and uninstall before you return it. That is what I would do if I ever found myself in such a predicament.

See photo below, I didn't have a sag problem, actually the 4 runner was almost a little too high. Now if you look real close you can almost see what appears to be a brand new tongue jack installed on that trailer, this is just a imperfection caused by the camera. Also, another tip if you look at the chains, the uhaul guy showed me, before connect the hooks, twist the chains around to take up the slack so they don't drag on the ground.
Havent seen my 4runner in 3 weeks, bought it august 4th, drove to florida then had to leave for work. barely had time to wash it before I parked it in the garage. One last piece of advice, for now. If you buy a trailer for yourself, make sure you buy a spare tire, usually people tow on the weekends, and getting a flat tire on a trailer replaced can be difficult to find, especially on the weekends. BTW, Uhaul doesnt include a spare tire when they rent you a trailer, so having that tongue jack so you can disconnect and go for help should the need arise will more than pay for itself.
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Mike,

Notwithstanding the great advice from the answers above, I don't think you will need much of anything special. As to a "drop bar", mentioned by Antman, I think he is talking about what I call a dropped "stinger". All that means is the part that slides into the hitch receiver , the one that holds the actual hitch ball, (I call that the stinger) they have different heights built in. Some drop, 1, 2, 3 inches etc.etc. There are some "adjustable" stingers, which have multiple holes where you can "drop" the ball to different heights to accommodate the height of the trailer hitch. The goal is to keep the trailer hitch even with the ball. Size of tires on the trailer and the height of the hitch set up of the truck causes one to try to match the height. Since you have a LTD, you have 20 inch wheels and then the depth of the tires, so depending on the size of the trailer wheels and tires, and the the trailers actual manufacture, you may need a drop stinger, or maybe a straight out stinger, just depends. Ok, enough said on that. As to a particular stinger being loose as mentioned by Axxman, that can happen, but it is not the rule. He just happens to have a loose one. I have 3 different stingers, all three are nice and tight. So again, just depends.

As to air bags mentioned by Antman, good things to have if needed. I went another route because the most I will tow is about 4k. The jet skies I have with trailer is right at 3K and I have no sag. See photo. I have an SR5 with no aftermarket shocks or springs. Seems just fine. I have not towed my other boat yet which I estimate at 4k, when I do, I might have to go with Antmans route or what others have done with stronger after market shocks.

I know it's new, a little scary, but do not let it stop you. Axxmans advice regarding being smart when towing is great advice. Take it easy, keep your eyes out all around you and especially in front. Give PLENTY of room to stop, you will have extra weight behind you when braking, it WILL be different.

You might also want to search for some threads about moving that dam electrical plug from where the factory placed it. PIA!
 
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The amount of sag you get will be determined by the tongue weight, which I bet is not much on your jetski setup. Just an observation :D

Also= don't confuse airbags with shocks! I still have the stock shocks (unfortunately). The airbags install inside the rear springs and keep the coils from compressing under load. They also provide about an inch of lift when inflated to the max 35PSI. I usually run mine round 12 PSI and bump it up to 20 when dragging the boat.
 
The amount of sag you get will be determined by the tongue weight, which I bet is not much on your jetski setup. Just an observation :D

Also= don't confuse airbags with shocks! I still have the stock shocks (unfortunately). The airbags install inside the rear springs and keep the coils from compressing under load. They also provide about an inch of lift when inflated to the max 35PSI. I usually run mine round 12 PSI and bump it up to 20 when dragging the boat.

I hope I did not confuse Mike between air bags and shocks. I thought I was pretty clear. I understand about tongue weight, hence my concerns regarding my other boat, for the other trailer has a shorter tounge....more weight near the hitch and thus more sag I am sure. Although I do not have anything against the air bag set up you have, If needed and when available, I am going to go with air shocks instead. I just hope they are out there for our vehicles when I need them!
 
Also, another tip if you look at the chains, the uhaul guy showed me, before connect the hooks, twist the chains around to take up the slack so they don't drag on the ground. [/IMG]

And always cross the chains to form an X. This will prevent the tongue from hitting the ground if it pops off the ball. I'm amazed how many people either dont use chains or use them incorrectly. My neighbor pulled his gardening trailer everyday without them on right for years...Until one day it dislodged and the tongue tried to bury itself right in the middle of an 8 lane intersection!
 
And always cross the chains to form an X. This will prevent the tongue from hitting the ground if it pops off the ball. I'm amazed how many people either dont use chains or use them incorrectly. My neighbor pulled his gardening trailer everyday without them on right for years...Until one day it dislodged and the tongue tried to bury itself right in the middle of an 8 lane intersection!

LMFAO!!, I have a distant memory of standing in a parking lot, watching a chevy S10 Blazer rolling by with the rear tailgate getting repeatedly stabbed by a trailer that had become unhitched.

Yes 2X always cross your chains, but never cross the streams. :nicethread:
 
I think you will be fine without any towing mods. I can't proove it, but I think that the LTD's have a higher spring rate than the SR5 since the part numbers are different. That combined with the XREAS shocks it makes towing much better than the SR5. The UHaul rental shops won't let you tow their trailers unless you are properly equiped anyway so no worries there. I towed an 18' 1000 lb. tandem axel flatbed with 3000 lbs. of lumber on it with my stock LTD, and it did just fine.
 
I typically tow at least twice a month and for a good amount of miles to campsites throughout the state. My suggestion, regardless of weight, get a brake controller before you start. Will you need it, maybe not, but it will be a nice thing to have if you go to hook up to a heavy trailer. They take all of 5 minutes to hook up, so don't make the mistake of paying someone to install it. Literally plug it in, zip tie up some wires, and mount the controller. You should already have a 7 and 4 pin harness under your hitch. I found that the placement of this plug is too recessed for some of trailers to hook up too. I combat the issue with an extension I made that has a male 7 pin on one end and a female on the other. Cost all of $20 to make.

Here is my rig and 3200# worth of popup camper :driving:

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Very informative guys! At first I was searching through threads and was reading about needing a tranny cooler, airbags, and trailer brakes?

Sorry, forgot to mention it's a 2011 4Runner.
 
Very informative guys! At first I was searching through threads and was reading about needing a tranny cooler, airbags, and trailer brakes?

Sorry, forgot to mention it's a 2011 4Runner.

Trailer brakes are on the trailer, you just need the controller I mentioned above. As for a tranny cooler, I would recommend it if you are towing some heavy trailers, otherwise I think its not a necessity. I do not have one. I towed the same popup above over 4k miles with my 2010 RAV4 prior to buying the 4Runner and had no issues with no tranny cooler. If you want cheap peace of mind, go for it, but I don't think its necessary. That being said, I will be putting one on mine once the AZ summer is gone, its just too hot to mess with right now. Airbags are not necessary with the trailers you mentioned, as you see in the photos with around 320# or more tongue weight my 2010 barely knows its back there. Add a few more # and it will, but again, not necessary. Here again, mine will be getting them after the summer has passed.
 
Just checked the manual online, I see nothing that says a tranny cooler is "needed" for any weight, or anything for no towing at certain temps. I have never heard of such a thing aside from posts on this forum.
 
Just checked the manual online, I see nothing that says a tranny cooler is "needed" for any weight, or anything for no towing at certain temps. I have never heard of such a thing aside from posts on this forum.

Just about every full size truck with a "tow package" will be equipped with a transmission cooler. My Titan even had a little electric fan for the cooler as well. Why would they include them if they weren't needed? Granted, some full size trucks are rated to tow 2 or 3 times the weight of the 5th Gens., but heat is the biggest tranny killer. A Transmission cooler is cheap insurance if you tow near capacity frequently, or for long distances. Maybe it's not necessary. I guess we will find out in 10 years if my tranny starts to slip... :)
 
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I recently towed a 19" boat 70 miles through upstate NY~ some highway and some back-road, all of it hilly. Other than the extra braking distance I was amazed at how easy the Runner handled the task. Once at speed I almost had to remind myself it was even there, and for the first time I'd towed anything in my life I never once felt ill at ease and managed to get 14+mpg along the way!
 
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Just about every full size truck with a "tow package" will be equipped with a transmission cooler. My Titan even had a little electric fan for the cooler as well. Why would they include them if they weren't needed? Granted, some full size trucks are rated to tow 2 or 3 times the weight of the 5th Gens., but heat is the biggest tranny killer. A Transmission cooler is cheap insurance if you tow near capacity frequently, or for long distances. Maybe it's not necessary. I guess we will find out in 10 years if my tranny starts to slip... :)

I hear ya man, I agree with you that its a good thing to have, but not a necessity for most. The post above the one you quoted shows that I also plan on adding one as I pull my camper at least once a month.
 

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