No Sound From Speakers..
- Thread starter golfman44
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Good Times
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check for blown fuse? make sure everything is reconnected.
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The obvious question would be "when you put your deck back in were all of the cables put back in SECURELY?"
If the answer is yes then I suspect a blown fuse in your amp. I'm not sure if the sub operates off of a seperate amp from the rest of the speakers, but given the nature of a sub amp vs a speaker amp, it's pretty common to see them seperated.
If all you did was remove the head unit then it pretty much has to be one of those two things.
Blown speakers don't just stop playing, they just sound like crap. Blown amps stop playing, but 19 times out of 20 amps will blow their fuse/breaker before they'll actually blow up from an overload.
I have a giant (around 100 pounds, 700 watts x 2 channels RMS, up to 1200 RMS x 2 channels at its 2 ohm min... and they don't even rate peak power because that'd just be pointless) high-end 2-channel amp in my house that is used to power a whole-house audio system (up to 8 pairs of speakers simultanously in all different locations around the house).
Anyway... point being that the amp has seen some SERIOUS feedback and over-voltages in its life time. It doesn't use a fuse, it just uses a breaker. So you switch the power off, and back on, and it's fine. Better amps will do this, but any amp is at least going to have a replacable fuse that accomplishes the same thing.
If the answer is yes then I suspect a blown fuse in your amp. I'm not sure if the sub operates off of a seperate amp from the rest of the speakers, but given the nature of a sub amp vs a speaker amp, it's pretty common to see them seperated.
If all you did was remove the head unit then it pretty much has to be one of those two things.
Blown speakers don't just stop playing, they just sound like crap. Blown amps stop playing, but 19 times out of 20 amps will blow their fuse/breaker before they'll actually blow up from an overload.
I have a giant (around 100 pounds, 700 watts x 2 channels RMS, up to 1200 RMS x 2 channels at its 2 ohm min... and they don't even rate peak power because that'd just be pointless) high-end 2-channel amp in my house that is used to power a whole-house audio system (up to 8 pairs of speakers simultanously in all different locations around the house).
Anyway... point being that the amp has seen some SERIOUS feedback and over-voltages in its life time. It doesn't use a fuse, it just uses a breaker. So you switch the power off, and back on, and it's fine. Better amps will do this, but any amp is at least going to have a replacable fuse that accomplishes the same thing.
sorry i was a bit unclear the deck is a CDA 9813 by Alpine and i jsut took of the FACEPLATE not the whole deck :-x
also the bass and amp are fine, the bass works fine and the PDB reads around 14.4volts which is normal...just that the speakers wont play. My amp is a JL 1000/1 and the sub is a 12" JL W7
also the bass and amp are fine, the bass works fine and the PDB reads around 14.4volts which is normal...just that the speakers wont play. My amp is a JL 1000/1 and the sub is a 12" JL W7
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golfman44 said:
OK then it's definitely not a cabling issue. So still, you need to check the fuse for your speaker amp to see if it's good.
If it is then you might be looking at a new head unit.
Good Times
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I'd say just remove the headunit and reconnect everything. maybe a line got disconnected or something.
check all lines and if all else fails, try another hu.
check all lines and if all else fails, try another hu.
