No start 85 4runner 22re

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Blackbox19

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I have tested all the relays. Fuel pump comes on and is pressurizing the lines.
The injector harness to the injector is getting a constant 12volts. But when I turn engine over the voltage never drops or stops. I know the injector has 12 volts all time and the computer grounds them as they fire. The engine will fire up on starting fluid. But quickly dies.
This 4runner has sat up for YEARS. I cleaned the tank and installed new pump
There is something I know that is simple that I am over looking. I know its a sensor that is unplugged or something like that.
 
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Sounds right that those injectors are clogged. Often sensors aren't really paid attention to at first. With a 3000gt I was fixing last year, it ignored nearly all of them for the first few minutes until warmed up, and you could trick it into continuing to ignore them by unplugging something like the Mass airflow sensor.

It just needs fuel and a spark. It's easy to check that you get a spark, so you might as well. Starting fluid seems like a good way, but might as well check anyways.

Then the other side is seeing that those injectors are spitting gas. You can pull them and check that they spit gas into a jar. Ideally you don't want sparks around when testing that. I think on the 3000gt I was able to pull a fuse so that there was no spark.
 
Ok

Blackbox said it was not getting fuel. I'm sure we can rule out compression. The big deal and the easiest to check is to see if you are getting gas to the fuel rail. Break the banjo bolt loose on the fuel rail and if fuel sprays out you have pressure, pump works. If the injectors are not cycling you have to ask yourself what tells the injectors to open and where does the signal come from? Computer and Distributor. If you had a running 22re I would swap parts out until you found what worked, starting with the computer.
 
Fuel is getting to the injectors. So the pump is working just fine.
But none of that would matter. The injector does not care if there is air or fuel it will open and close if that ONE thing is telling them to do it.
I just got to figure out what that THING is.
 
The injectors should click on and off when you give them and take away 12V (though I forget which is on and which is off). But if they are stuck, they won't open and close. You can disconnect each and test them out (what I did when I want figuring things out on the 3000gt). But you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone by keeping them connected and seeing fuel comes out of them into a can when run.

I don't think it's the problem, but there could be cases where you have fuel pressure but not enough (say due to a blockage, kink, plugged fuel filter, dying fuel pump, or bad fuel pump relay). Since you're dealing with a machine that hasn't been up in a while, if it's easy to test the injectors while still connected, I'd go for it.

Back to the 3000gt, which was a much more finicky engine than a Toyota, there were a couple threads on what to do when getting a car that hadn't been run in say 5 years. Many would go so far as to drain any fuel they could get to, replace things like the fuel filter, and pre oil the engine with some oil in each cylinder and manually turning it over. I think our engines are much more robust, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to drain the fuel you can and put in fresh stuff. Fuel goes bad. Small engine books and manuals basically say to throw out any fuel older than 90 days. Larger engines are more forgiving, but it might save you time and effort later on.
 
A sticking injector does not effect the signal to it. There is no signal to it.
As I have a noid light in line to see the signal.
 
Then track it between the injector electrical lines and the computer (or if something else is sending the signal, then it).

I haven't heard of problems with our computers AFAIK, but that 3000gt was known to have leaky capacitors that would take out the computer if you didn't replace them in time. But with pinouts for the computer, you can start there and work your way towards the injectors. A couple people there had problems with their wire bundle, where a kinked or grounded wire somewhere along the way caused problems. But that was generally for just one injector. If all of them stay constant, that points towards bigger things.

Something unplugged? Something gnawed through? Why did this 4runner sit idle for years?
 
Reason it sat? Guy bought it from kid that had the radio hooked into the fuel pump wiring and other crazy mess. Then that owner rewired it with another harness. Well that harness is for a Automatic 4runner and I am not sure what year. Well the truck is a 5 speed. Then it has a EGR delete that complicates things farther, so there is a lot of extra connectors and wires and hoses loose every where. I tried tracking most to find any sensors not wired up.
But there has to be something that the ECM is looking for to turn those injectors on.
I dont think the neutral safety switch was by passed as I have to jump the starter to get it to crank. So I am going to get under there and find the switch wires and bypass them
 
Blackbox19 said:
Reason it sat? Guy bought it from kid that had the radio hooked into the fuel pump wiring and other crazy mess. Then that owner rewired it with another harness. Well that harness is for a Automatic 4runner and I am not sure what year. Well the truck is a 5 speed. Then it has a EGR delete that complicates things farther, so there is a lot of extra connectors and wires and hoses loose every where. I tried tracking most to find any sensors not wired up.
But there has to be something that the ECM is looking for to turn those injectors on.
I dont think the neutral safety switch was by passed as I have to jump the starter to get it to crank. So I am going to get under there and find the switch wires and bypass them
Click to expand...

LOL!

Sorry, I wasn't familiar with the situation, and it sounds like other people answering had no idea either. This puts you in a whole different ballgame, the one where you really are only worried about electrical. And amazingly, one where you are in the screwed up situation that some of those 3000gt owners were in.

Personally, if I were you I'd do my best to get familiar with what you have, and what you should have. If you have a pick-n-pull or similar junk yard near you, go in and dismantle a 4runner, ideally to get what you need. Depending on how much you want to spend, and how much time you have, either get one from a place like that, or get a tested or known good one off of someone.

Or get ready to use that multimeter a lot. At least there tends to be some room in the 4runner to get to things. While I've been upside down reaching under the driver's area trying to replace the parking brake cable, I didn't have the worry of getting stuck that I did in the sports car.

The FSM for your year should have all the info you need. For a '92 it's 3 books, with one just for the electrical wiring diagram. I think there's still someplace you can download them from, or if I remember right you can pay toyota something like $15 for a 3 day pass, and then just download everything.

Good luck. And next time remember to mention that "crazy mess" upfront to get people at least in the right ballpark.
 
I'd be for cleaning up all that crap wiring before I started troubleshooting, just so you know what you're looking at. Get an uncut harness that's right for the truck, or build your own from scratch.

Or sell it down the road and pick up a truck that hasn't been redneck engineered.
 
There is a harness ground that bolts to the intake, can only see it with the throttle body off. It was not connected and once connected back. It fired up and purrs like kitten now.
 
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