Ya but both are 4 runners not cruisers
noob help with elocker questions
- Thread starter Wikki
- Start date
Ya but both are 4 runners not cruisers
JamesDean91
New member
There's no such thing as 8.5 ring gears unless you meant 9.5.
To op I don't know how to read the tags but both your rigs run the same size tire and same trans so I would assume same gearing someone else will probably tell you more but I'm posting to let you know about the12voltguy.com he has by far the cleanest wiring and best prices.
Toyota
Here is a link to my retrofit.
LINK
It sounds like you need to do some research and some shopping. I was lucky to get a spare housing to retrofit and wasn't down without a vehicle while I took my time doing the swap and prep.
If you find a locker ready housing it will most likely have a locking 3rd member in it and it will carry a hefty price tag. I'd look for an appropriate 4Runner housing and mod it. I used a factory ECU for simplicity and wiring.
LINK
It sounds like you need to do some research and some shopping. I was lucky to get a spare housing to retrofit and wasn't down without a vehicle while I took my time doing the swap and prep.
If you find a locker ready housing it will most likely have a locking 3rd member in it and it will carry a hefty price tag. I'd look for an appropriate 4Runner housing and mod it. I used a factory ECU for simplicity and wiring.
Forrrrest
New member
Well they answered most of your questions. Now its time to buy one and slap it in. Ohhh hey by the way did I mention I have an e locker for sale???
Well here is the thing though why I'm asking about gearing... Because from what I understand the 3rd gens have two different hearings I believe 4.10 and 4.30 you can't have one of each otherwise it will jack up your tcase... And I have an elocker I can get for 375 so if you can beat that price let me know but yeah I don't just want to jump and buy the first one I come across cause this has to be installed ready to go on a weekend cause I cannot be out the car cause I gotta have a way to get to school and work...
aha2988
New member
assuming your installing an elocker for off-road purposes and that most third members have been pulled out and become available to sale, Your going to have to figure either the bearings are bad or the truck has had a lot of miles on it and it was time to part things out.
your going to want to rebuild whichever elocker third member you purchase you can contact Eastcoastgearsupply.com they will provide everything in a rebuild kit for you along with the paper gasket you'll need for a housing template. You'll also want to upgrade the carrier assembly by installing a solid pinion spacer in place of the crush sleeve. The factory crush sleeve will allow pinion deflection away from the ring gear which results in stripped gears or broken teeth. Installing a solid pinion spacer will prevent that.
Your also going to need the two longer studs for the side of the third member with the electric motor on it.
After doing this retrofit I can say it looked a lot easier than it proved to be. If your going to be removing the axle to do the grinding you'll have the ebrake cables to deal with as well if your doing the cutting and grinding under the truck you need to be quite positive that you drill and tap the new holes for the new studs 100% perpendicular to the face of the housing (if they are a bit off of being straight you can drill out the third member mounting holes a bit to help). Both of these tasks will eat up several hours on top of rebuilding the used elocking carrier assembly which is a job in itself.
The only reason I say all this is just to inform you that it won't be an easy weekend project it will eat up all of a saturday and a sunday to get everything done if you don't run into any other obstacles along the way.
For the gearing question. All of the fj cruisers have the same gear ratio that we do except the manual tranny cruisers. So if you get one from an Fj you won't have any questions. For finding out what your gearing is other wise please refer to the first link I gave you which answers 95% of your questions ... http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/ "What's my gear ratio? There are several ways figure it out: (top)
If you think your axle gearing has not been changed since it left the factory, you can read and decode the "axle code" from your vehicle information plate. Off-road.com has some pretty good information how to do this HERE (scroll down to the section titled "Gearing").
If your differential has been removed so that you can see and count the teeth on the gears, you can divide the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear to come up with their ratio. For example, 41/10 gives you a 4.10:1 gear ratio (the most common stock ratio).
To verify gear ratios w/ the diffs on the vehicle, there is the "spin and count" method:
For "open" diffs:
Block the tires at one end of the vehicle to keep it from rolling, and then jack up a tire on the other end.
Place the transmission in neutral and release the parking brake if you are checking the rear diff.
Spin the tire exactly TWO full revolutions while at the same time counting exactly how many revolutions the driveshaft spins (marking the driveshaft and tires beforehand will make it easier to count revolutions).
The number of revolutions the driveshaft spins is your gear ratio.
If it spins just over 4 times, then the ratio is probably 4.10; 4-1/3 = 4.30; 4-1/2 = 4.56; just under 5 = 4.88; 5-1/3 = 5.29, etc.
For limited slip (LSD or "posi"), locking differentials, spools, etc.:
With these types of diffs, you won't be able to turn one tire w/o the tire on the opposite side of the axle turning with it.
In this case, follow the directions above except raise both tires off the ground and turn them exactly ONE full revolution while counting driveshaft revolutions.
Again, the number of driveshaft revolutions is your gear ratio as mentioned above."
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thanks for the help with that! Honestly ive been thinking about it alot this morning and going through some build threads and im thinking i might just swap the front and rear axles... just to be sure... cause i should be able to get the rear locking axle plus the front axle... which would then mean that i can just swap both when im ready to do suspension... which im still trying to decide on what to get... leaning more towards OME... for a 3" lift then a leveling kit..but still alot of research to do before i decide what i want
aha2988
New member
OME is a good cost effective way of getting a moderate susspension lift. IMO if your considering coil overs later just go ahead and save up to get the nice kit to begin with. Way less work down the road and you won't have to deal with spring compressors. Allpro rear lift springs and some extended travel rear shocks will give you a great on and off road setup. Radflo, fox, king, or icon all have great kits.
If your planning to do the front and the rear (as well doesn't sound like you want to mess with building a differential) call up chase at eastcoastgearsupply.com he'll go through all the locker options you have that won't involve modifying your housing. They then ship you the products the rear is ready to bolt in just goes right in place of the old third member and then the front is ready to bolt your passenger side axle tube on and install in the truck. just ship your old diff's back to them to prevent a core charge. Cheapest easiest way to go with brand new gears and lockers.
yeah not to worried about work later on down the road really... as i have a shop plus going to school for automotive anyways so its just either have something to do at school now and then do the new stuff at my shop later on down the road or just flat out wait it out... ha id rather have the stuff now to make it so i can go to moab and be able to go on more trails than not lol i mean eventually somethings gonna break anyways that ill just have to be replacing again anyways.
