Nose Dive While Braking

Some of these suggestions are helpful and I really appreciate those responses. Thank you. Some, not so helpful. I merely was looking for suggestions as to what others have done to address this issue without the added benefit of lifting my vehicle. The searches I found were topics about lifting vehicles with the added benefit of fixing the nose dive. I am not interested in doing this. If I missed the topics that address this, I apologize for missing them. As a new member of the T4R community, I am turning to this forum for guidance and encouragement.
 
Some of these suggestions are helpful and I really appreciate those responses. Thank you. Some, not so helpful. I merely was looking for suggestions as to what others have done to address this issue without the added benefit of lifting my vehicle. The searches I found were topics about lifting vehicles with the added benefit of fixing the nose dive. I am not interested in doing this. If I missed the topics that address this, I apologize for missing them. As a new member of the T4R community, I am turning to this forum for guidance and encouragement.



By the very nature of what you’re asking, it’s pretty much impossible...


[MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] can shed much more light on this than my feeble brain, but it’s more simply put like this: the cause of the nose-dive is simple physics of the low-resistance damping in the stock suspension vs weight transfer of a heavy SUV under (braking). As a solution, your choices are: 1. Apply pressure to the brake pedal as softly & un-abruptly as possible until you slow to the desired speed, hence not causing said nose-dive... or 2. Change the dynamics of your suspension to give more resistance on the dampening under braking forces (which is what most people on here will tell you to do). The underlying result of changing anything on the suspension that solves your issue has other consequences (hence the replies you’ve received thus far). Technically, you can do 5100s and not raise the front to .85 setting as I suggested, and basically stay at stock height in front & back... 5100s are a “stiffer” shock than stock, so the nose dive should lessen to a degree, even at stock height. I was merely suggesting the .85 setting because it would add a touch of pre-load to the front suspension, thereby stiffening them even a little more and really help to eradicate the “nose-dive” which you are trying to solve.



One option is to reach out to those who have added 5100s to their trucks, but left everything at stock height, and see if their “nose dive” has gotten any better (as [MENTION=120384]4RunnerAU[/MENTION] just mentioned). You probably won’t find many; but it’s worth checking. My suggestion is search vigorously first on that topic though (to avoid flame-throwing)... and use Google to do it; your results will be much better.



Good luck.
 
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Some of these suggestions are helpful and I really appreciate those responses. Thank you. Some, not so helpful. I merely was looking for suggestions as to what others have done to address this issue without the added benefit of lifting my vehicle. The searches I found were topics about lifting vehicles with the added benefit of fixing the nose dive. I am not interested in doing this. If I missed the topics that address this, I apologize for missing them. As a new member of the T4R community, I am turning to this forum for guidance and encouragement.

It is annoying at times, I adapted by driving slower/easier in heavy traffic. Then I fixed it for good by moving out of Maryland to an area where there is no traffic.

Your best bet is probably a suspension upgrade. Toyota now offers the TRD Pro (Bilstein) suspension kit upgrade for the 4R for $1,800 if you're worried about warranty.
 
I asked the dealer if I could adjust brakes for the rear to do more of the stopping..all I got from them is ..this is how they all are..

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Just pretend you're a sub marine captain and get into the habit of exclaiming, "dive, dive, dive!" when braking and be thankful you're not driving a ford exploder.
 
Why are you applying the brakes so hard? Keep a normal distance from the guy in front of you,dont wait till the last second to stop, stop texting and get off the phone!! Get a GT3, 0 nose dive!! Ha


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I asked the dealer if I could adjust brakes for the rear to do more of the stopping..all I got from them is ..this is how they all are..

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This rear braking stuff is just jokes, right?

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I mean, I guess if you adjusted the brakes to the point that you couldn't brake hard that would fix the nose dive problem, although I'm not sure the crashing into things problem is really an improvement

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By the very nature of what you’re asking, it’s pretty much impossible...


[MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] can shed much more light on this than my feeble brain, but it’s more simply put like this: the cause of the nose-dive is simple physics of the low-resistance damping in the stock suspension vs weight transfer of a heavy SUV under (braking). As a solution, your choices are: 1. Apply pressure to the brake pedal as softly & un-abruptly as possible until you slow to the desired speed, hence not causing said nose-dive... or 2. Change the dynamics of your suspension to give more resistance on the dampening under braking forces (which is what most people on here will tell you to do). The underlying result of changing anything on the suspension that solves your issue has other consequences (hence the replies you’ve received thus far). Technically, you can do 5100s and not raise the front to .85 setting as I suggested, and basically stay at stock height in front & back... 5100s are a “stiffer” shock than stock, so the nose dive should lessen to a degree, even at stock height. I was merely suggesting the .85 setting because it would add a touch of pre-load to the front suspension, thereby stiffening them even a little more and really help to eradicate the “nose-dive” which you are trying to solve.



One option is to reach out to those who have added 5100s to their trucks, but left everything at stock height, and see if their “nose dive” has gotten any better (as [MENTION=120384]4RunnerAU[/MENTION] just mentioned). You probably won’t find many; but it’s worth checking. My suggestion is search vigorously first on that topic though (to avoid flame-throwing)... and use Google to do it; your results will be much better.



Good luck.

This is what I was looking for. Thanks for your help.
 
@nevada
brake bias is about torque applied by biasing the pressure applied, it's not about timing. I think you may be getting confused thinking about stability control systems which modulate braking to

the reason brakes are front biased is because when you are stopping the weight shifts to the front so there is more weight (i.e. more normal force) on those tires so they will do more of the braking. If you bias to the rear, you would just lockup the rear tire because under braking the normal force decreases in the rear. even if you timed the rear to brake first, it wouldn't prevent the dynamic weight transfer to the front which is what causes the nose dive.

the dynamic weight transfer is a function of the deceleration, not brake timing
yes, im fully aware of all that. I still believe Toyota screwed up when designing this brake system. this isn't nearly as much of an issue on other similar sized SUV's, nor the previous generations of the 4runner.

you seem to be confused as to what im actually saying. understand, when the rear brakes are applied before the front, it will typically pull the rear down slightly. this will help offset some of the weight transfer, as the weight is staying down lower, for longer.
maybe bias was the wrong word, perhaps braking profile would fit better. in either case, ideally, the rear brakes would apply first, then the further/harder you push the rear pressure would ease up, and the front get much stronger.

I asked the dealer if I could adjust brakes for the rear to do more of the stopping..all I got from them is ..this is how they all are..

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im not sure if you are being sarcastic or not..

but, that would be very difficult to do, as this is the way they were designed, though im sure it could be done.

This rear braking stuff is just jokes, right?

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not even a little bit.

but as I have already said, its a hell of a lot easier to adjust the suspension, than it is the brake system to solve this.
 
it's not a motorcycle, that's not how brakes work

and dynamic weight transfer is still a function of acceleration (negative in this case)
 
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man Im glad I saw this before asking the same question haha yall are brutal. Those saying 5100 fixed it did you swap coils? I have 5100s and it helped some but it didn't come close to eliminating it.
 
man Im glad I saw this before asking the same question haha yall are brutal. Those saying 5100 fixed it did you swap coils? I have 5100s and it helped some but it didn't come close to eliminating it.

This is what I am really after. I anxiously await a reply. If coils were replaced, is there a recommendation as to which ones for stock height? I do not mind the stiffer ride but do not want to lift.
 
yes, im fully aware of all that. I still believe Toyota screwed up when designing this brake system. this isn't nearly as much of an issue on other similar sized SUV's, nor the previous generations of the 4runner.

you seem to be confused as to what im actually saying. understand, when the rear brakes are applied before the front, it will typically pull the rear down slightly. this will help offset some of the weight transfer, as the weight is staying down lower, for longer.
maybe bias was the wrong word, perhaps braking profile would fit better. in either case, ideally, the rear brakes would apply first, then the further/harder you push the rear pressure would ease up, and the front get much stronger.

im not sure if you are being sarcastic or not..

but, that would be very difficult to do, as this is the way they were designed, though im sure it could be done.

not even a little bit.

but as I have already said, its a hell of a lot easier to adjust the suspension, than it is the brake system to solve this.

Another case of "I know better than the Toyota engineers". Did you stop to think that maybe your "solution" wouldn't effectively stop the vehicle quick enough and that's why the brakes are the way they are? Do you think the egineers say "Hey let's see if we can turn Americans into bobble heads and make one of our more expensive vehicles the least desirable" or do you think they were more concerned about stopping a speeding freight train safely?
 
Another case of "I know better than the Toyota engineers". Did you stop to think that maybe your "solution" wouldn't effectively stop the vehicle quick enough and that's why the brakes are the way they are? Do you think the egineers say "Hey let's see if we can turn Americans into bobble heads and make one of our more expensive vehicles the least desirable" or do you think they were more concerned about stopping a speeding freight train safely?

you mean, like all the people advocating to alter the suspension from factory?
 
you mean, like all the people advocating to alter the suspension from factory?

No one ever said that didn't come without consequence. I'm not saying your idea was wrong, I dont know anything about braking or brake bias, I'm just saying I wouldn't assume they didn't try it if it were possible. I'm going to trust that the braking on this vehicle was the best way they could get it to stop.

As for the suspension suggestions, it's pretty widely accepted that different models have different ride habits because of the different suspensions. Same brakes, same braking, different results in nose dive due to multiple factory suspension options.
 

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