OBDII Reader/Scanner/Reset........best bang-for-the-buck these days.
- Thread starter Kevin G.
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Buckaroo
Member
When I was looking a few years ago, I decided that BlueDriver was the way to go. It is not as cheap as the basic OBDII readers which just read emission related codes but provides enhanced capability on most vehicles to read ABS, HVAC, SRS and Transmission codes. You can check capability for your year on website, Costs around $120. It does not provide bi-directional control which costs a lot more.
BlueDriver
KristianMcdaniel
New member
Thanks for your recommendations and different variants! I will check them out and compare them by price. I struggled with the lack of money last month and am looking for cheaper variants right now. But recently I won in an online casino and now my financial situation improved. I certainly recommend you to visit Alberta online casinos review website where you can find the best deals relevant for your budget. It can be a game for fun or it can be a chance to win. And you will find an overview of the best games, propositions and places to play in Alberta there.
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DAW89446
Member
I bought the least expensive unit that could reset codes from Carquest about 2016. If I remember, it cost less than $50 retail. It gives little or no info on the code obtained, you have to look online for that. I'm not a mechanic, I only wanted/needed something to reset the car.
I bought it after I was about 200 miles from home and driving my '12 Subaru Outback. On a lonely desert two lane, 100 degrees outside, my car's cruise control kicked off, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. I pulled over, kept my engine running and pulled the owner's manual for an answer that wasn't there. After about a half hour, the engine still running as if nothing happened, I continued home, with a non functioning cruise control and with the dash lit up.
I was working for Carquest in my small town and pulled in and bought the reader, getting an employee discount. While at the store, I checked the code on the store's computers and found it to be an evaporative system code. I reset the code, clicked the gas cap a couple times. The lights were out and the cruise worked again. I only had that happen once since, on the Outback. It happened both times about 250 miles after gassing up and I didn't double click the gas cap. Never has happened on my '18 T4R.
An online search revealed to me that manufacturers have started disabling creature comforts when the check engine light comes on because owners are ignoring the light more often. It's also profitable - dealers check the code, tighten the gas cap, reset the light, charge $125.
I've never gotten a code on any check engine light equipped vehicle that I've owned in the last few decades except the Subaru. If I ever get something other than an evap system code, I'll call my mechanic. Otherwise the reader has been happily hibernating in its case and in my workbench drawer since I bought it. I did scan a friends 2006 Ram with a Cummins diesel once and reset his with it. With that, I've only used it three times.
I bought it after I was about 200 miles from home and driving my '12 Subaru Outback. On a lonely desert two lane, 100 degrees outside, my car's cruise control kicked off, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. I pulled over, kept my engine running and pulled the owner's manual for an answer that wasn't there. After about a half hour, the engine still running as if nothing happened, I continued home, with a non functioning cruise control and with the dash lit up.
I was working for Carquest in my small town and pulled in and bought the reader, getting an employee discount. While at the store, I checked the code on the store's computers and found it to be an evaporative system code. I reset the code, clicked the gas cap a couple times. The lights were out and the cruise worked again. I only had that happen once since, on the Outback. It happened both times about 250 miles after gassing up and I didn't double click the gas cap. Never has happened on my '18 T4R.
An online search revealed to me that manufacturers have started disabling creature comforts when the check engine light comes on because owners are ignoring the light more often. It's also profitable - dealers check the code, tighten the gas cap, reset the light, charge $125.
I've never gotten a code on any check engine light equipped vehicle that I've owned in the last few decades except the Subaru. If I ever get something other than an evap system code, I'll call my mechanic. Otherwise the reader has been happily hibernating in its case and in my workbench drawer since I bought it. I did scan a friends 2006 Ram with a Cummins diesel once and reset his with it. With that, I've only used it three times.
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MikeinNH67
Senior Member
I've had a Veepeak ($20) wireless reader since 2016 and it still works as it should. I use the free version of Torque Lite on my phone to talk to it. It does most things that I need it to do. If I need more, I use a Foxwell bidirectional scanner. It cost way more but I needed it for a failing wheel sensor on my Runner and idle relearn on another car.
Harlock
Member
I also use the VeePeak OBD Scanner. I have the $40 BLE+ that I use with the OBD Fusion App, which is another $10. I know it has limits. But it's done a fine job so far. Most recently it helped me translate a Check Engine light into a P0456 EVAP Control System Leak code which I was then able to fix by changing a third-party Stant gas cap with an OEM one. I haven't had any problem clearing codes.
Despite warnings that it can drain the battery, I actually leave it plugged in full-time (been there a couple of years) and have gone as long as a week without starting the car without any issues. The placement has also been handy when I've run into others with car trouble. As for the app, I like the more polished look of the OBD Fusion interface and the customizable gauges you can display on your phone while you drive. Not necessary, but a fun way to get more for the $50 I put into it.
Despite warnings that it can drain the battery, I actually leave it plugged in full-time (been there a couple of years) and have gone as long as a week without starting the car without any issues. The placement has also been handy when I've run into others with car trouble. As for the app, I like the more polished look of the OBD Fusion interface and the customizable gauges you can display on your phone while you drive. Not necessary, but a fun way to get more for the $50 I put into it.
Older thread but wanted to share my experience with a bidirectional wired scanner - Launch Creader X431 Elite unit. They were on sale for ~$120 on Amazon and make a Toyota specific version.
I was looking for a device to program the 'hidden' features as well as pull codes in the future (application is a 24 4Runner and 23 RAV4). I know Carista and others can perform this function but opted for a wired device to minimize communication issues with ECM that could cause problems. These are serial devices and it can take a bit of tme to download data from the many (70+) modules, but times were less than 1-2 muinutes for a complete report.
Device is has a color display screen and can generate reports then send them to your email (if on wifi). The manual is minimal and it takes a while to learn and work your way through the menus, but I did program two vehicles without issue (window FOB operation, turn off seat belt warnings, lighting etc..). I created a flow diagram for the menus, if anyone is interested I can post them to help naivate the multitude of options and sub-menus.
Good device for reading real-time data and resetting codes as well as a variety of service features. No monthly fee, but any paid downloads are only good for one year (free updates for 1 year) You can add other cars and options such as programming TPMS sensors.
