michalik.piotr6837
New member
When you take the OEM stock speakers out, you will be amazed sound was coming out of them at all.
OEM Audio + 5th Gen 4Runner audio system
- Thread starter headpaneer
- Start date
TRDORP4Runner
New member
Noticed a strange issue recently, anyone else have their amp shutting down when moving the passenger seat forward/back in certain positions?
I've checked the cables and they all appear to be connected with plenty of slack, haven't been able to figure out the cause.
I've checked the cables and they all appear to be connected with plenty of slack, haven't been able to figure out the cause.
TRDORP4Runner
New member
I did check the ground, was originally loose, tightened it down real tight, I did not sand it down, I can still do that.
I also unscrewed the bolts on the seat to see if anything was catching or moving when the chair moved and there was nothing I could see, it just seemed to be random, but in the same locations every time.
Very Strange, I reached out to Daniel at OEM, but haven't received a response yet, which is also strange.
BigCountryT4R
New member
Is this a worthy upgrade over the stock jbl with sub in my 19 limited?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
jcage89
New member
I would sand the ground contact. Also keep in mind that even if there is plenty of slack, the cables are not static and with the seat moving so can the connections to the DSP amp itself so you need to ensure everything a secure at the amp connections. Finally make sure you didn't pinch or rub any wires where possibly insulation was stripped or some loose connection is creating short. I would almost recommend taking the amp out to closely inspect everything. I am sure that is what Daniel would probably tell you to do. I know its a pain and I had some issues in my install that took redoing things that was frustrating but end result is worth it.
Cheers JC
OEM Reference 500 third row install
Hello, All
This is my first post to the forum and I'm not sure how to include messages in the body of the post so I was going to attach it to this post but its too large. I'm not active on the board so I guess you can shoot me a message and I'll email it your way.
First and foremost, thank you to all of you who have posted in this thread over the years. Your contributions helped me make the decision to buy a system from OEM Audio Plus. I will also echo other posts that the service provide by Daniel at OEM is exceptional. I never needed help with install but he was always responsive.
I installed the system in a 2015 4Runner SR5. I selected the Reference 500 package and added the Dedicated Sub Amplifier w/ Gain Control Knob. I wasn't a fan of how the box looked for the optional 2nd sub for the third row model so I opted not to get it. After installing the system I'm happy with my decision as I think it would be overkill. Here is the image OEM provided me when I inquired about it.
The install took me two days because I also opted to sound deaden the doors as I went along. I didn't take many pictures but I think I took enough to make anyone installing into a third row more knowledge when they are ready to do it. A couple of pointers:
I broke up the install as follows:
Saturday noon-6: replaced tweeters, front speakers and rear hatch speakers. Again, I sound deadened as I went along so each door took me about two hours. Probably could have gone a little quicker but I was enjoying mismosas along the way. I also left the battery plugged in while I did all of this so I ended up with a dead battery but no other issue.
Sunday 9-6: I knew the sub was going to take a while to run because I had to remove the third row so I dedicated the lion's share of the day to it.
1. I have short arms and was not able to stick my arm up along the side of the glove box far enough to run the harness so I could reach it from the other side. Anticipating this, I picked up a wire snake from Amazon for 10 bucks and a friend helped me fish the line in a few short minutes. Also came in really handy when I had to re-run for the gain control line.
2. Don't forget to run the gain control line with the harness connectors to the back of the radio.
3. I pulled the excess slack of the gain control line behind the radio and tied up the slack, leaving enough to run down to just below the steering column where I'll mount the knob. There is a tubular pole behind the radio and I just tucked the excess on top of that.
4. The power lines run to the battery and OEM gave me plenty of slack to work with. Because I have two amps I have two power lines and two fuse boxes. OEM was kind enough to mark which wire was A but I made the mistake of not re-marking the wire where I was going to cut it - whoops! To troubleshoot I hooked up only the A fuse and line to the Positive terminal and then had a friend turn the car on/off to test each wire. The wire that made the radio work was A. B didn't do anything, so it was easy to resolve.
5. To take out the third row seats I followed this video provided by Provo Beast Audio Installation. After all was said and done I ended up with two extra screws, so I consider that a success.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AP7GzWHWI68
6. After loosening the rear passenger quarter panel I sound deadened the floor. Once the panel is loose I ran the harness along the top of the wheel well and used zip ties to secure to the existing harness runing along the same path.
With the third row seats removed you will see the hump which the front mounts of the seat are secured to. They bolt in to the front so I ran the sub harness along the backside. In my crude drawing you see the wire coming up the wheel well from the passenger side door. About mid way across the wheel well you will see a small gap between the quarter panel and the metal floor, perfect to lay the harness down in and it lines up nicely with the hump you'll run it along. For the left rear panel I just loosened the screw of the tab securing it to the floor and tucked the wire under there. It doesn't have to run all the way up the wheel well so you don't need to remove the whole thing.
7. Once the sub harness is ran you get to put it all back together! The sub box itself is different than the two-row model. Instead of mounting on top of the floor and across the arm rest it drops in to the cavity right in front of the panel for the jack.
Here's a side profile of the box:
And the cavity in front of the jack panel. I did light sound deadening under the Sub and also installed some behind the jack itself.
Because the box actually drops in to the cavity there is no velcro to secure the box to the paneling. Instead, these long strips of foam padding prevent vibration. It fits great!
Because you are removing that small panel there is a minimal gap where the paneling used to cover but it is very narrow.
And here it is installed
Monday 2-5: I used a few hours on Monday to install the rear door speakers. I spent more time trying to get the effing door panel back on than I took to deaden the doors and install the speaker on the first one. PRO TIP: the soft strip at the top of the door panel that presses against the window can be removed. It is mounted to a thin, metal black assembly. Looking at the back of the panel, gently pull/tug on the assembly straight out toward you. There are three pressure clips keeping it in place. Once removed, put that strip on the lip of the door and then install the door panel. It will push right on. I watched a video of it yesterday but I can't find it now. I'll post if I come across it again but save yourself that headache and remove that strip first - I promise it will come off.
Earlier I ran the gain control line with the harness to the back of the radio. Then I dropped enough line to reach the spot where I intend to install the gain control knob. It will only accommodate #4 screws so I'm going to try using 3M command strips to mount. FYI, if you disconnect the line from the knob then the sub will operate at full capacity.
Hello, All
This is my first post to the forum and I'm not sure how to include messages in the body of the post so I was going to attach it to this post but its too large. I'm not active on the board so I guess you can shoot me a message and I'll email it your way.
First and foremost, thank you to all of you who have posted in this thread over the years. Your contributions helped me make the decision to buy a system from OEM Audio Plus. I will also echo other posts that the service provide by Daniel at OEM is exceptional. I never needed help with install but he was always responsive.
I installed the system in a 2015 4Runner SR5. I selected the Reference 500 package and added the Dedicated Sub Amplifier w/ Gain Control Knob. I wasn't a fan of how the box looked for the optional 2nd sub for the third row model so I opted not to get it. After installing the system I'm happy with my decision as I think it would be overkill. Here is the image OEM provided me when I inquired about it.
The install took me two days because I also opted to sound deaden the doors as I went along. I didn't take many pictures but I think I took enough to make anyone installing into a third row more knowledge when they are ready to do it. A couple of pointers:
1. Before you disconnect the battery move the front passenger seat so you have space to access the rear bolts. The front bolts are not an issue because they go in at about a 45-degree angle so just make sure you have enough clearance for the rear bolts to use whatever tool you intend to work with.
2. When installing the amp under the seat I mounted the amp and then tried to plug in the harness connectors but found space limited so I unmounted the amp, plugged the wires in and then re-mounted. No problem.
3. IF YOU HAVE THE DEDICATED AMP WITH GAIN CONTROL KNOB MAKE SURE YOU RUN THE GAIN CONTROL LINE WHEN YOU RUN THE HARNESS TO THE RADIO. I made this mistake and had to unbolt the seat to get access to the amp and then re-run this harness and gain control line. The gain control line looks just like a phone line. Alternately you can run it to the back near the sub. Wherever you decide just don’t forget to run it at the same time as the harness.
4. You will have to remove the rear third row seats and loosen the rear passenger quarter panel in order to run the harness. There is no way around it.
I broke up the install as follows:
Saturday noon-6: replaced tweeters, front speakers and rear hatch speakers. Again, I sound deadened as I went along so each door took me about two hours. Probably could have gone a little quicker but I was enjoying mismosas along the way. I also left the battery plugged in while I did all of this so I ended up with a dead battery but no other issue.
Sunday 9-6: I knew the sub was going to take a while to run because I had to remove the third row so I dedicated the lion's share of the day to it.
1. I have short arms and was not able to stick my arm up along the side of the glove box far enough to run the harness so I could reach it from the other side. Anticipating this, I picked up a wire snake from Amazon for 10 bucks and a friend helped me fish the line in a few short minutes. Also came in really handy when I had to re-run for the gain control line.
2. Don't forget to run the gain control line with the harness connectors to the back of the radio.
3. I pulled the excess slack of the gain control line behind the radio and tied up the slack, leaving enough to run down to just below the steering column where I'll mount the knob. There is a tubular pole behind the radio and I just tucked the excess on top of that.
4. The power lines run to the battery and OEM gave me plenty of slack to work with. Because I have two amps I have two power lines and two fuse boxes. OEM was kind enough to mark which wire was A but I made the mistake of not re-marking the wire where I was going to cut it - whoops! To troubleshoot I hooked up only the A fuse and line to the Positive terminal and then had a friend turn the car on/off to test each wire. The wire that made the radio work was A. B didn't do anything, so it was easy to resolve.
5. To take out the third row seats I followed this video provided by Provo Beast Audio Installation. After all was said and done I ended up with two extra screws, so I consider that a success.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AP7GzWHWI68
6. After loosening the rear passenger quarter panel I sound deadened the floor. Once the panel is loose I ran the harness along the top of the wheel well and used zip ties to secure to the existing harness runing along the same path.
With the third row seats removed you will see the hump which the front mounts of the seat are secured to. They bolt in to the front so I ran the sub harness along the backside. In my crude drawing you see the wire coming up the wheel well from the passenger side door. About mid way across the wheel well you will see a small gap between the quarter panel and the metal floor, perfect to lay the harness down in and it lines up nicely with the hump you'll run it along. For the left rear panel I just loosened the screw of the tab securing it to the floor and tucked the wire under there. It doesn't have to run all the way up the wheel well so you don't need to remove the whole thing.
7. Once the sub harness is ran you get to put it all back together! The sub box itself is different than the two-row model. Instead of mounting on top of the floor and across the arm rest it drops in to the cavity right in front of the panel for the jack.
Here's a side profile of the box:
And the cavity in front of the jack panel. I did light sound deadening under the Sub and also installed some behind the jack itself.
Because the box actually drops in to the cavity there is no velcro to secure the box to the paneling. Instead, these long strips of foam padding prevent vibration. It fits great!
Because you are removing that small panel there is a minimal gap where the paneling used to cover but it is very narrow.
And here it is installed
Monday 2-5: I used a few hours on Monday to install the rear door speakers. I spent more time trying to get the effing door panel back on than I took to deaden the doors and install the speaker on the first one. PRO TIP: the soft strip at the top of the door panel that presses against the window can be removed. It is mounted to a thin, metal black assembly. Looking at the back of the panel, gently pull/tug on the assembly straight out toward you. There are three pressure clips keeping it in place. Once removed, put that strip on the lip of the door and then install the door panel. It will push right on. I watched a video of it yesterday but I can't find it now. I'll post if I come across it again but save yourself that headache and remove that strip first - I promise it will come off.
Earlier I ran the gain control line with the harness to the back of the radio. Then I dropped enough line to reach the spot where I intend to install the gain control knob. It will only accommodate #4 screws so I'm going to try using 3M command strips to mount. FYI, if you disconnect the line from the knob then the sub will operate at full capacity.
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Focal Speakers with the System 500?
Has anyone installed the System 500 with Focal Speakers?
I have already installed the Toyota specific Focal speakers front and back but the way they have eq'd the head-unit it is still lacking. I am hoping that the DSP and amp can resolve this issues and I am very curious how this combo sounds.
Colt
Has anyone installed the System 500 with Focal Speakers?
I have already installed the Toyota specific Focal speakers front and back but the way they have eq'd the head-unit it is still lacking. I am hoping that the DSP and amp can resolve this issues and I am very curious how this combo sounds.
Colt
Stephencovar
New member
Out of curiosity, has anyone installed the OEM Audio+ on a 2021 TRD Pro w/JBL? If so, which system did you get and how’s the upgraded audio?
Stephencovar
New member
I have a ‘21 TRD Pro also. OEM Audio+ only has one option for us at the moment and it’s for their JBL Enhancement. I just ordered mine last week and unfortunately it’s a 45 day lead time at the moment. It’s ok though. OEM Audio+ is an incredible company with excellent customer service so I know it’s going to be worth the wait. With that being said, I’m fortunate enough to like about 45 minutes away from them and will be having them do the install for me. I’ll gladly report back with my impressions once installed.
FiReBReTHa
New member
Hoping I don't have to punch thru 41 pages. But has anyone purchased just the sub box from them? Trying to see cost on them.
Whippersnapper02
Senior Member
You can't purchase just the sub box.
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FiReBReTHa
New member
You're my hero. Thanks!! Guess I'll have to finish fiberglassing when humidity drops
Late reply, but YES i have had random static(not power downs) happen on mine that began when kids sat in the passenger seat. Eventually it happens when nobody in the seat. Recently I reached under the front seat and lightly wiggled the harness going into the amp and it went away immediately but has come back a couple times intermittently. Like others have stated it must be a ground or short issue. The flimsy tin plate the amp mounts on to the seat bounces around EASILY if you look under there. Id recommend a piece of foam or creative strapping so wiring won't get tugged every time the amp plate bounces from potholes/passenger weight! I need to narrow mine down. Ive had mine in w dual sub/amps for 3+ years now. The dual sub extra amp makes the mids/highs sound better also....the entire system enjoys more power not just the 2nd sub! GET the dual amp/x2 sub its so worth it. The basic system is great dont get me wrong but the dual amp/subs make it all way brighter and x2 boom. Id say to anyone w single amp/sub throwing money at mids/highs before trying the extra amp/sub might be wasting cash.
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TRDORP4Runner
New member
Yeah, I believe what was happening is the amp was hitting the coils under the seat, the foam wasn't doing a great job of covering all areas, I tore it into pieces and wrapped as much as I could and tightened the amp to eliminate any sway and I haven't noticed any issues since, I'd like to get the cables more secure as well to eliminate any pull.
Has anyone with a single sub been able to order the second sub? I don't see the option, unless im missing it, I thought they said it was coming years ago.
Whippersnapper02
Senior Member
I specifically purchased because I was told the 2nd sub would be available to me but I was never notified. Here's the link: +AMP/SUB Options - OEM Audio Plus
TRDORP4Runner
New member
Thank you
