OEM brake mileage.

[kenwilliams0803]

:wow: Sounds about right. My wife doesn't drive that fast, but everything is full pedal, be it brakes or gas.

Mine too. I refer to my wife's driving as "binary style". Which is rough on everything in her 6,000 lb. behemoth of a vehicle. 13 mpg with premium gas haha. She eats tires in like 15k miles.

The brakes on mine were toast at 60k and again around 125k. The second time, both front calipers needed to be replaced as well.

 

[Ukie]

I'm at just over 50k and the dealer told me my pads were 4mm in the rear and 6mm in front. I've only had the vehicle for a few months so i have no idea how it's been driven.

4mm and and 6mm will last some time.
Good indicator to replace breaks is a squeaky sounds when driving on low speed... roll your window down and listen.
I got 75K on front and 80K on rear (rears were really low when I replaced them).

 

[Jivewalker]

I drive heavy trafffic and get 90-100k miles easy. There are two different replacement pads, the crappy ones and the good ones. the good ones part#'s are:

48131-35650 front
04466-60140 rear

There is a thread somewhere that gives both the good and cheap part #'s.

 

[Hoop]

4mm and and 6mm will last some time.
Good indicator to replace breaks is a squeaky sounds when driving on low speed... roll your window down and listen.
I got 75K on front and 80K on rear (rears were really low when I replaced them).

Coincidently, I stopped at the dealer today and bought new pads and shims for both front and rear, $268, before I saw this post.

Now the question is do I gamble that they make it through the winter or replace them now while I can do it in my driveway... I'm in Minnesota, so in about a month or so I'll have to take it somewhere to get them done, rather than do it myself, if it becomes necessary. :smow:

 

[Lester Lugnut]

Now the question is do I gamble that they make it through the winter or replace them now while I can do it in my driveway... I'm in Minnesota, so in about a month or so I'll have to take it somewhere to get them done, rather than do it myself, if it becomes necessary. :smow:

You live in one of the coldest/snowiest places in North America. I'm assuming your pads were getting low - hence the reason for the purchase.
If it were my vehicle, I would get busy and change out the parts you bought before you find yourself dealing with 6 months of white.

 

[kenwilliams0803]

Coincidently, I stopped at the dealer today and bought new pads and shims for both front and rear, $268, before I saw this post.



Now the question is do I gamble that they make it through the winter or replace them now while I can do it in my driveway... I'm in Minnesota, so in about a month or so I'll have to take it somewhere to get them done, rather than do it myself, if it becomes necessary. :smow:

Depends on how much you drive and what type of driving. I'd personally do it now but my T4R will see 20k miles between now and spring so I am biased. If it's more like 5-10k for you and not all stop and go, you are probably fine with what you have until it warms back up.

And FYI on the squeakers/wear indicators, not all aftermarket pads have them so depending what's on there now you might not ever get that sound before it's metal on metal. I don't know if your brakes have been done before and with what parts. I can tell you I have never let a pad get all the way down to a squeaker in 20+ years, I am more vigilant than that. Those things are made for people who don't keep on top of their vehicles and just take them to the dealer and go "my car is making a scraping squeaking sound, can you fix it?"

"Yes ma'am that'll be $1k for new brakes all around."

 

[1000MPH]

I drive heavy trafffic and get 90-100k miles easy. There are two different replacement pads, the crappy ones and the good ones. the good ones part#'s are:

48131-35650 front
04466-60140 rear

There is a thread somewhere that gives both the good and cheap part #'s.

I posted the cheapo ones in a referenced thread in my previous post above.
Here they are again.

Do Not Use
- these kits are economy quality -
Front Brake kit: 04465-AZ001-TM
Rear Brake kit: 04466-AZ004-TM

 

[tristero]

92K front – pads, rotors, hardware
104K rear – pads and hardware, replaced brake fluid

Fronts were replaced mainly due to warped rotors

FWIW, I never replaced the rear brakes at all on my 99 taco with 274K but did the front 3 times.

 

[borfoo3]

mine lasted ~45k miles..

Not bad considering it's lifted, extra weight from mods, aggressive driving, traffic, plenty of offroad and crawl control action. Better driving habits would definitely help them last longer

 

[Hoop]

I posted the cheapo ones in a referenced thread in my previous post above.
Here they are again.

Do Not Use
- these kits are economy quality -
Front Brake kit: 04465-AZ001-TM
Rear Brake kit: 04466-AZ004-TM

Are those Toyota part #s? I'll have to check the ones I bought and see which they are.

 

[1000MPH]

Yes, they are part of Toyota’s TCMC program: Toyota Complete Maintenance Care.
Not well regarded but probably designed to hit a price point.
Here’s an opinion.

Toyota Factory Replacement Brakes vs. TCMC Brakes

And a couple of PDFs
https://www.rav4world.com/d1/attachments/pdf/T-TT-0132-11.pdf

https://www.toyota.com/toyota-owners-theme/pdf/04_BrakePads2015_final[1].pdf

 

[kuh]

i changed out both front and rear pads at 45K

front and rear pads were evenly worn, only noticed when i was driving slowly in a parking lot and could hear the squeal.

Also replaced the front rotors due to warping

I drive it 95% of the time

I run 275/70/17 BFG's with toytec spacers on a limited.

Happy with brake pad replacements at 45-50K, seems normal to me.

 

[jbinmd]

I replaced the rear pads at around 42k. Fronts are still original. I'm at 46k now and not the original owner. I bought the truck used with 23k on the odo.

 

[3rdPlatoonDoc]

Replaced all pads at around 70-75k. Fronts we’re starting to squeal and failed safety inspection. Rears had some life left over but figured I might as well get it all done at once.

SR5 with 275’s on a stock suspension. 20k a year, most of it highway. I have a lead foot on the accelerator but I’m a little better with the brake.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ukie]

Are those Toyota part #s? I'll have to check the ones I bought and see which they are.

yes, they are.

Here's what I got to replace my rear breaks:
Brake Pads 04466-60140 1 $49.41 New
Shim Kit Anti Squea 04946-60141 1 $19.05 New

 

[85GT-79FJ40]

I just swapped out the pads on my 2011 that has 55k on it. They were original and about 2/3 worn but it was primarily a city rig prior to me getting it. I put Brembo pads on it and honestly am surprised how much more I like them than the factory pads. Usually I go OE but had used these in the past and liked them. Better pedal feel for sure which is one thing I always disliked about this truck. Can't wait to install the stoptech hoses I have had lying around for the past year and flush it out with ATE gold.

 

[PrettyGoodSam]

i have a 2012 TE and the brakes have been grabbing slightly recently. i bought it at 55k and now there is 64k ish on it. i think im going to get one of those free brake inspections from Mavis Tire and see what the story is.

 

[GG5thGen]

45K mile on brakes is normal pad replacing when driving in traffic .
cutting rotors is IMO N/G... rotors when cut will get distorted because of metal loss. I never cut my rotors in 50 yrs ...waste of $$$ and more loss of use.
I replace my rotors at 10yr or when the rotor has rust blisters on the surface.

Does this mean that if a rotor got warped, you would replace it instead of having it turned?

 

[1000MPH]

yes, they are.

Here's what I got to replace my rear breaks:
Brake Pads 04466-60140 1 $49.41 New
Shim Kit Anti Squea 04946-60141 1 $19.05 New

That's the correct part number for the rear pads.
0446660140 - Disc Brake Pad Set (Rear). Pads, MARK, Brakes - Genuine Toyota Part

And most important, that is the correct shim kit for the rears.
Comes with 4 shims (1 per pad) and 2 clips (1 per caliper)

0494660141 - Shim kit, anti squeal(for rear disc brake). Suspension, brakes - Genuine Toyota Part



and then I believe you still need these.

0494722050 - Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set (Front, Rear). Fitting Kit, Disc Brake - Genuine Toyota Part

 

[catrains]

Does this mean that if a rotor got warped, you would replace it instead of having it turned?

rotors warped , rusted blisters on surface buy new...
I never had the rotors warp .. reason is I use the silicone brake grease on the cal pins and also I make sure that the pads do not stick/bind ..

replacing brake pads I open the bleed screw and use a C clamp to push the piston in so that ALL that nasty brake fluid is dumped out of the system.. professionals most do not do this type process..

when replacing the pads keep the brake pedal down so that the master cylinder will not get air air in the system..