OEM spare tire carrier replacement- WTF

[onthejob]

So as my on going battle with the salt continues the next part to fail was the spare tire carrier. It wasn’t an epic failure, just getting my free tire rotation and the tire guys were not comfortable putting the spare back up on it. After further review, they somehow kinked the fraying cable in the mechanism and couldn’t have got it up either way. It does need replacing. The steel cable was no match for upstate road conditions on my 2007 4Runner.

I did the research and I can see it’s a failed design with some recalls but not with the 4Runners. So I located a new version with the chain links instead of steel cable on eBay for $42. YES, $42 plus $10 shipping. Now how the hell do you get the old one off….. The bolts go in top down and there is very little clearance in many different directions. I couldn’t get any of my sockets or wrenches to even get to these rusted bolts to give it a try.

I figure that it would have been a knuckle buster anyway so I am cutting the bolts from the bottom and drilling them out. I’ve got the first 3 of 6. Anybody have a better technique…. Took my 1.5 hours just for those 3.

 

[onthejob]

I finished it up today. The one thing I learned from this I'd like to pass along to the next unfortunate guy that takes this repair is remove (I drilled them out) the two outer most bolts first. This frees up that useless guard or guild, not really sure what it does, but once that is out of the way the remaining 4 bolts are much more accessible with a stubby flex head ratchet. 12mm socket once you knock all the rust off.

I did not replace that guard or guide thingy. Made installation a snap. It was very easy to hook into the socket even without it when raising or lowering the spare. The chain mechanism is MUCH smoother! That spare tire is finally out of the back compartment.

 

[SSt4r]

Can you show where you got it on Ebay?

 

[montana_jeepn]

Can you show where you got it on Ebay?

^ This.

Mine is jacked up as well. Is what you got from Ebay a factory replacement? [MENTION=83408]onthejob[/MENTION]

 

[onthejob]

It was an auction from what appears to be a private person: richardcooper1985 on eBay

The original listing is unavailable.

looks like the only one he had. I see other random parts.

 

[onthejob]

^ This.

Mine is jacked up as well. Is what you got from Ebay a factory replacement? [MENTION=83408]onthejob[/MENTION]

Yes factory replacement still sealed in the bag. Here is a pic of the label.

 

[DC runner]

On the first and second gen runners, the spare was chain. Same with old trucks.

I must warm you. They moved away from it to the thinner steel wire because it took no time for that large chain to rust and seize up.

I never had one work right, ever. The knobby chair links would rust seize together and would foul the lower mechanism. I had to have one spare forcebly cut off.

I think the chain design us more susceptible to rust.


I did pull up the item, def. Redesigned. So perhaps it will last longer.

 

[CookieRoe]

Wonder if "lubing them" will help prevent the chains from rusting. I'm in the rust belt too. Been awhile since I lowered my spare, but figure if we can spray something (typing out loud: get some grease and slap some on the chain..... ...... :heh:........................) Anyway, could help???

 

[HokieRunner]

I have the cable and spray it down with lithium grease 2x a year. Never had an issue so far. Chain isn't quite the same but it sure as heck wouldn't make the rust situation worse.

 

[mav2287]

My concern would be the rattle or noise off the chain. I also don't like the idea of it rubbing on the top of my rim.

 

[onthejob]

After installation I hit the whole mechanism and chain with PB Blaster, just because that's what I had right there. I like the idea of the lithium grease. The chain is a much better solution than a cable. The chain feeds down through where the center cap would be so it doesn't touch any of the painted surface of the rim. The paint on my rims are shot anyway from the salt. I haven't heard any rattle from the chain.

I put the rim up paint side up. When I first took possession of it used it was mounted the other way, outer rim was facing down. I didn't think that was a good idea because the salt spray would pool in the back of the rim. I do a 5 tire rotation.

 

[TechWrench]

After installation I hit the whole mechanism and chain with PB Blaster, just because that's what I had right there. I like the idea of the lithium grease. The chain is a much better solution than a cable. The chain feeds down through where the center cap would be so it doesn't touch any of the painted surface of the rim. The paint on my rims are shot anyway from the salt. I haven't heard any rattle from the chain.

I put the rim up paint side up. When I first took possession of it used it was mounted the other way, outer rim was facing down. I didn't think that was a good idea because the salt spray would pool in the back of the rim. I do a 5 tire rotation.

Interesting about how you found the spare oriented. Both of the '03's I have had the spare mounted with finished side up from the factory, and I continue to mount them that way. As for the design change between the cable and chain styles, there are pros and cons on each. I think there are two main problems with the cable type. Lack of preventive maintenance on the cable, and the design. Because the entire weight of the wheel/spare is suspended on the cable, the weight and vehicle bouncing has a tendency to cause the cable to wedge itself among the lower layers on the spool which over time can cause the cable to kink and fray. I had to replace the one on my first '03 about 4 years ago for this very problem. I do a 5 tire rotation, so the spare was removed at least once each year, and I sprayed lithium grease on the cable each time. and it still became kinked and frayed. When I replaced it, they were still supplying the cable type, so that is what I replaced it with. 4 years later, it is still working, but I am not optimistic about its long term survival. My newest (to me) '03 had the original spare hanging underneath, which had never been lowered since it was new. I know the original owner, and he did all his service work at the dealership, and they never included it in any rotation sequence. It still had the nubbies on the tire. There was NO WAY that lift was going to work when I got it. I tried everything I know to get the lift to work, but finally had to cut the cable. I cut the mounting bolts to get the old lift off, and am getting ready to order a new one. I will probably go with a chain type, only because it shouldn't have the problem with the layers of cable binding to each other. I feel that as long as I lower it at least once a year, and lube the chain and mechanism, it should last longer that the cable type.

PS: I just received my new spare tire lift to day, #51900-60280, and I can confirm that it appears Toyota has replaced the cable style with the chain type. Interestingly enough, I checked with a local dealer a week ago, and their parts dept personnel indicated that they were not aware of the change. They didn't have one on the shelf, but were pretty sure they cable style was still in the inventory. They pointed to the pic on the parts look up, which showed the cable style, and said that proves their point. Right................ The ebay sellers are all using the same parts breakdown pics, but are apparently sending the 'New' improved chain style. So installing it, along with a new frame mounted trailer hitch, will be this weekends project. Then I can get the spare out of the rear compartment and back underneath where it belongs.

 

[Benny123]

Think you could just cut out the cable and replace it with a chain, instead of buying a whole new assembly?

 

[Benny123]

Bump

 

[TechWrench]

Think you could just cut out the cable and replace it with a chain, instead of buying a whole new assembly?

I can't say you can, for sure. I don't remember if there is a difference on how the chain/cable will mount to the spool. The other issue is the condition of the crank mechanism it self. In both of the units I had to replace, the crank mechanism was badly rusted, and in one it wouldn't work at all. I think, if yours is rusted, you would need to remove the unit in order to try to work on it, so just replacing it may be the easier way to go.

 

[Chankeye]

toyota had a recall on the sienna tire carriers back in the day, part of the recall was to coat existing cables that were not rust damaged in a thick tar like anti rust spray, looked almost like undercoating (can't remember the name of the product). any that were too far rusted were replaced with a new unit. If you just keep the cable coated in grease it should keep the cable in better condition for a longer period of time and be less prone to seizing up.

 

[TechWrench]

toyota had a recall on the sienna tire carriers back in the day, part of the recall was to coat existing cables that were not rust damaged in a thick tar like anti rust spray, looked almost like undercoating (can't remember the name of the product). any that were too far rusted were replaced with a new unit. If you just keep the cable coated in grease it should keep the cable in better condition for a longer period of time and be less prone to seizing up.

Unfortunately, the problem with the cable units is more than just cable rust. Because of the way the cable winds around the spool, the weight of the tire/wheel assy. can cause the outermost cable layer, which is supporting that weight, to sink below the lower, loosely wound layers and get wedged there. With the weight on the cable, and the vehicle bouncing around, this happens all too frequently. This can cause the cable to kink and or swell, which then makes it jam up when trying to fit back through the eye hole it threads through. It was a poor design to begin with. That is why they went back to the chain type.

 

[Benny123]

Yes, you can

This message is for anyone searching for a solution in the future.

Turns out you can replace the cable alone.


I got into this today after reading a post on TW about how the cable snapped on the highway and dropped a tire on the car behind him. Its your liability.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/check-your-spare-tire-carrier.497837/



If your winch is working its not too bad of a job. If its not working, spray the hell out of it with white lithium grease and try again the next day. It should move some. If not get a cutoff tool and some safety glasses.

Cable is 3/16. Get 3 feet. Get some wire cable end ferrules and cable wire clamps. Get a cable swager. Watch youtube and learn how to use it. Geta large shackle and a thimble. These are all common cable wire materials. Lowes has all of this stuff.

Here some pics you havent seen of the winch without wire to guide your way. See the notch in the wheel? Thats where you ferrule goes. Dont think it will hold? Watch this. Even 1/8 line can hold over 800lbs.









Loctite rust remover and repaint the two old parts you see there. System rated to over 1000lbs. Tire weighs 70.

Total cost $40, and no ripping the old one down. If you already have a swager, or rent one. $10. And you learned something new.

 

[Bluesky 07]

It's interesting, and quite frustrating I'm sure for the many owners on the wrong side of the rust line, how many issues can be traced to the rust that appears to be prevalent in places with harsher winter climates.

My '07 has spent its time in North Carolina and Georgia. There's almost no rust on the frame, calipers, etc., and I had my spare down yesterday with no issues. I used bicycle chain cleaner/lube to wipe down the cable and sprayed white lithium grease into the hoist mechanism. While reloading the spare, the handle operating the hoist can be turned with one hand so it's clearly operating normally.

All that to say that I feel for anyone that has an added layer of maintenance just because it snows a lot where you live. Frankly, I expect more from Toyota and am grateful our winters are mild in terms of effects on a vehicle.

 

[Benny123]

Thanks for the post. It really is extra work in rust belt parts of the US. I didn't want to have to buy a whole new assembly or change out to chain mechaism. Truck spent 7 years in OH, but since the truck is no longer exposed to salt and snow, I did the cable again. Sounds like no issues outside the snow belt.