Great info! Did the cable end fit, it's technically goes in the wrong way? my cable was down to two strands (two were gone) and I thought it would be great to just replace the cable and its a much cheaper option. What did you do with the large shackle? Any after pics?
OEM spare tire carrier replacement- WTF
- Thread starter onthejob
- Start date
Great info! Did the cable end fit, it's technically goes in the wrong way? my cable was down to two strands (two were gone) and I thought it would be great to just replace the cable and its a much cheaper option. What did you do with the large shackle? Any after pics?
I had to replace the spare tire hoist on my ‘05 4th gen 4Runner, recently. Drilled out all (3) bolts from below, bought a used replacement assembly from a salvage yard in SoCal (no rust), and packed the entire unit inside the plastic shield with the same grease I used on the driveline. I lower it 2-3 times per year to keep it lubed.
this is nice. my cable is still good but will replace the ferrule. i will get this done soon.
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LanceKnives
Junior Member
can you explain how you got the cover off without removing entire unit?
Benny123
New member
For the plastic part, just used a pry bar. I broke it off. Its not really necessary and really gets in the way.
For the other question. I have no pics of the repair, it basically looks like stock except for the shackle.
Essentially what youre doing is reattaching the cable to the wheel, winding it after finding the correct length. Be mindful of the original direction of winding! Give yourself 2 extra feet than you think you need to do whats next. You can trim later.
Place the thimble under the shackle. Run the wire around the thimble through the shackle and back up out. Then use the wire clamps to pinch it back on itself. I used 2 thimbles. You may have to reposition them, as they need to sit low, or will end up hitting the winding mechanism.
Also, just to check in. 6 months later and still hanging on there good. No issues.
I dont check in here often, Im mostly on Tacomaworld ( have 2 vehicles) same user name though. PM me if future readers have ?s and Im happy to help.
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I just did this today. I went to lower the spare tire and the hoist was totally jammed/rusted and the wheel only went down a couple inches then stopped. The only new OE part I could find to replace it was the chain type that they sell now. Had to replace the hoist itself as well as that angled triangular sheet metal guide -- everything was totally rusted. IIRC, the hoist was about $60, the guide was about $45, and the bolts were about $6.
I absolutely couldn't get the old bolts to budge so I just swung by the mechanic and had them cut/chisel the old pieces off. Then I went home, got out the wire brush and POR-15, and did my best to clean and rustproof the area.
Next was the insane pain in the neck of installing the replacement hoist and guide. There is so, so, so little room and the bolts come down from above, through the crossmember, and thread down into the new unit. It's just six bolts but it might as well be 60 -- just such a knuckle-scraping downer to do. Under my car at least, there's a big important-looking plastic box just in front of that crossmember, making the space even tighter (wonder what the heck that box is! ... power amp for the JBL stereo maybe? ... if so, what's it doing under the car?)
Finally got everything in and secured, after dropping many many f-bombs. I think I threw in the C word a couple times too. I had in the basement a short 1/4" ratchet and a 12mm socket that fit on it. Fortunately it was exactly the right height to do this abysmal task.
Anyhow it's on there now and it does work a million times better than the old one. Hope the chain doesn't clank around down there too much, or chew up the face of the spare wheel.
That has to be the most unpleasant job I've ever had to do on the 4Runner!!! I wouldn't wish it on anyone ... better answer is to keep everything super lubed and not have to do this!
I absolutely couldn't get the old bolts to budge so I just swung by the mechanic and had them cut/chisel the old pieces off. Then I went home, got out the wire brush and POR-15, and did my best to clean and rustproof the area.
Next was the insane pain in the neck of installing the replacement hoist and guide. There is so, so, so little room and the bolts come down from above, through the crossmember, and thread down into the new unit. It's just six bolts but it might as well be 60 -- just such a knuckle-scraping downer to do. Under my car at least, there's a big important-looking plastic box just in front of that crossmember, making the space even tighter (wonder what the heck that box is! ... power amp for the JBL stereo maybe? ... if so, what's it doing under the car?)
Finally got everything in and secured, after dropping many many f-bombs. I think I threw in the C word a couple times too. I had in the basement a short 1/4" ratchet and a 12mm socket that fit on it. Fortunately it was exactly the right height to do this abysmal task.
Anyhow it's on there now and it does work a million times better than the old one. Hope the chain doesn't clank around down there too much, or chew up the face of the spare wheel.
That has to be the most unpleasant job I've ever had to do on the 4Runner!!! I wouldn't wish it on anyone ... better answer is to keep everything super lubed and not have to do this!
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
This. I use Fluid Film. Spray into a thick rag and wipe the cable then spray into the reel mechanism.
Does anyone have a picture of this setup. I got all the items in the picture but reading "Place the thimble under the shackle. Run the wire around the thimble through the shackle and back up out."
doesn't make sense to me. The wire only has one end so how can two Thimbles be used?
And "place the thimble UNDER the shackle"? does this mean place the thimble IN the shackle and wire the Thimble?
And why use wire clamps when the part list includes a swagging tool and ferrules?
Any help would be appreciated as i have all the parts but not sure how to finish the project.
