OEM Switch Dim Stopped Working

[Eric0321]

'14 Trail
I tapped into the green and grey wires on my OEM heated windshield washer button to use the dimming on another switch. I used a multimeter to test and measure the voltage as I rotated the dimmer switch and it appeared to work as the voltage went down and up as I moved the dimming wheel respectively.

Then because I'm an idiot... I moved the probe connector to the DC10A spot on the bottom left of the multimeter (image attached) thinking oh, vehicle is DC due to battery. Now I get no light at all on my OEM heated windshield washer button dimmed or fully bright and no reading on the tap leads as I measured before being stupid. Did I just blow the light on the OEM switch or did I screw up something else worse? The console (speedo etc.) still dim when I move the wheel.

 

[Eric0321]

I just bought another OEM heated windshield switch off of eBay... hopefully I get the dimmable light back with it!

 

[Captain Spalding]

Did you check the fuse?

 

[Eric0321]

Did you check the fuse?

I looked to see if there is a fuse for switch dimming but didn't see/find it. Which fuse should I be looking at?

 

[Captain Spalding]

I’m not sure. Maybe someone else will chime in. This is the first car I’ve seen with these dinky fuses. I don’t know if it’s possible to tell if they’re blown just by looking.

 

[fkheath]

'14 Trail
I tapped into the green and grey wires on my OEM heated windshield washer button to use the dimming on another switch. I used a multimeter to test and measure the voltage as I rotated the dimmer switch and it appeared to work as the voltage went down and up as I moved the dimming wheel respectively.

Then because I'm an idiot... I moved the probe connector to the DC10A spot on the bottom left of the multimeter (image attached) thinking oh, vehicle is DC due to battery. Now I get no light at all on my OEM heated windshield washer button dimmed or fully bright and no reading on the tap leads as I measured before being stupid. Did I just blow the light on the OEM switch or did I screw up something else worse? The console (speedo etc.) still dim when I move the wheel.

The DC10A input is for measuring current (amperes) up to 10 amps. It is a dead short across the leads. Thus, if you are lucky, the fuse if blown. If not lucky, you may have melted wires in the wire harness.

 

[Eric0321]

The DC10A input is for measuring current (amperes) up to 10 amps. It is a dead short across the leads. Thus, if you are lucky, the fuse if blown. If not lucky, you may have melted wires in the wire harness.

I didn't smell anything burnt or melted, so fingers crossed there. I'm not sure which fuse to check. I don't see one for light dimming. Can you tell me which fuse I would check for the dimmable switch/button lights?

Here is a diagram reference for the fuses:
https://fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-4runner-n280-2010-2017-fuses

The switch still functions, just not the dimmable light on it. All other dimmable lights, instrument panel, traction control knob/button lights, still function as they should (their blue light comes on and dims properly). Just the one switch that I tapped and tried to meter had the blue illumination dimmable light go dead.

I'm hoping I just blew out the LED light on the switch. Will have to see when I get the switch I bought off of eBay...

 

[Captain Spalding]

If the lights on all the other switches come on with the headlights except that one, then it’s probably the switch and not the fuse.

Is there a pdf electrical diagram available for these cars?

 

[Eric0321]

Replaced the switch with the one I got off of eBay and same problem, dim light on switch is dead... So I either blew something, or melted the wire within the harness :-( Maybe the tap I did broke the connection and it's just coincidence that it happened when I did the multimeter stupid above?

 

[Eric0321]

Finally got some time to check fuses. It was the #2 Panel fuse in the box under the driver-side dash... At least it's all working now

 

[Captain Spalding]

Glad it worked out.