Off-Road Capabilities of 2WD

david_ray320

New member
Forgive me if this topic has already been discussed but everyone knows how ineffective the ol' search function is these days.

So what are the off-roading capabilities of the 2WD? Assuming you obviously go with a 2.5"-3" lift and some larger tires, what kinda off-roading can you expect to do with only 2WD? Obviously I'm not expecting to be out there crawling up rock faces but I was hoping some other people with 2WD could share their experiences and what they've been able to accomplish so I can have an idea of what my runner can do should I take it off-road.
 
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I was driving around in 6" of snow in 2wd a month or so ago just fine. I only needed 4wd once and that was going up a VERY steep hill, I mean it was slick and steep. I imagine with some better tires it would be much more capable in 2wd.
 
i have a 4wd but i think it is almost more fun wheeling in 2wd, i personally do not care if i get stuck, normally becuase i am with a group who can pull me out farely easily, but i also have the option to thro it into 4lo and work my way out. However with 2wd you can normally do some light to medium wheeling. I personally think that tires are overrated, the difference in mud and all terrains main difference is the price, but if you are just doing lighter wheeling i would stick with all terrains, i would suggest terra grapplers
 
01goldt4r said:
i have a 4wd but i think it is almost more fun wheeling in 2wd, i personally do not care if i get stuck, normally becuase i am with a group who can pull me out farely easily, but i also have the option to thro it into 4lo and work my way out. However with 2wd you can normally do some light to medium wheeling. I personally think that tires are overrated, the difference in mud and all terrains main difference is the price, but if you are just doing lighter wheeling i would stick with all terrains, i would suggest terra grapplers

Thanks for the responses, guys.

Yeah I would love to get the Grapplers but unfortunately they don't make them for the 15" rim and I don't really want to get new rims. I'm looking at the Toyo Open Country A/T's though.
 
if you dont have that damn VSC/TRAC on its a capable rig. Man that system is nice sometimes but definitely not for intentional wheelin.... plus i would say a good off road driver can go far with 2wd. hell i learned with an s-10 total shatt car from what i have now haha
 
rdgt4r said:
if you dont have that damn VSC/TRAC on its a capable rig. Man that system is nice sometimes but definitely not for intentional wheelin.... plus i would say a good off road driver can go far with 2wd. hell i learned with an s-10 total shatt car from what i have now haha

Lol. There was an S-10 in a small ditch near my house. We only had 3-4" of snow. I was curious to see if the 4runner could handle it and sure enough, no problem.
 
rdgt4r said:
if you dont have that damn VSC/TRAC on its a capable rig. Man that system is nice sometimes but definitely not for intentional wheelin.... plus i would say a good off road driver can go far with 2wd. hell i learned with an s-10 total shatt car from what i have now haha

whats that? and does my 2WD have that on it?
 
its a contraption that when your power wheel starts to lose even the lightest bit of traction, stops power going to that wheel, applies the brakes to it, the sends the power to the opposite wheel.

go drive through some water or loose dirt and flooor it!
youll know if you have it right away, a special little light will go on, youll hear a wierd clicking sound and your rig will pretty much stop.

atleast it does on my 4wd while in 2wd.i disabled mine, it only makes it worse unless you happen to be on snow on pavement.
 
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ok then i have it, like a little image (orange color i believe?) that looks like maybe a car hyrdoplaning makes a little beep beep noise?

it does it all the time if i'm driving up a hill after the rain or when i do go mud riding. so this is hurting my performance more then helping it?
 
Sloan said:
ok then i have it, like a little image (orange color i believe?) that looks like maybe a car hyrdoplaning makes a little beep beep noise?

it does it all the time if i'm driving up a hill after the rain or when i do go mud riding. so this is hurting my performance more then helping it?

Yes, it's cutting power to the wheels, which will make you go slower. I think you should have a TRAC OFF button that disables it
 
thats the one.

not so much hurting, just not helping.

scenario- you only have 2wd and you are on a sweet trail. you come to a fairly steep hill that youre sure you can take. you floor it to get momentum and then you kick a couple rocks out from under the power tire.

so, vsc does its job and stops power to the slipping wheel, applies the brake to it, then the power goes to the other wheel.

sounds great but now there is no way your rig is going to make it up since its already pretty mch stopped. when power applies to the other wheel it will most likely slip again. so... here you go again and you get no further.

i hooked mine up to a on/off switch, here is the write up.


The purpose of this mod is to show you how to install a rocker switch that will disable the VSC & TRAC systems with the push of a button.

Parts Required:

(1) On/Off rocker switch. I used an OEM, two-pronged, fog light switch. Toyota part# PT297-89013sw.
It?s about $10.00 from Toyota.
8' of 18 gauge automotive wire.
This is for two lengths between the switch and the master cylinder.
(2) female spade connectors to be used at the switch.
(2) barrel connectors, crimp-on style.
Or you may choose to use a soldering gun to secure the connections.
Electrical tape
Heat shrink tubing (optional)
Zip ties

Tools Needed:

Wire cutters
Wire stripper/crimper
Razor blade
Socket Wrench
Soldering gun (optional)

**WARNING**

If you have not worked on automotive wiring before, or are unsure of stripping, crimping, etc., please do not attempt this mod by your self.


**SPECIAL NOTE**

Before I begin, I would like to give complete credit to fellow YT member, aowRS for creating this mod.
The pictures I have included in this write-up and the majority of the instructions, if not all, belong to him.

I have simply taken his instructions and pictures from the many posts and threads on this subject and elaborated on them below; thus creating a formal write-up of the Andy Mod.

Any questions or comments on this mod should be directed to him. I can say I have since done this mod to my 4Runner and love it.
Thanks for all the hard work in figuring out this mod Andreas!

Step 1:

I made a wiring harness using the rocker switch, spade connectors, and wiring.
The actual distance from where the switch mounts to where you will tie in to the ground wire is very short.
I just used two 4' lengths of wire to make sure I had plenty of slack and also to make feeding it through the firewall grommet easier.

If you insert your wires through the firewall grommet, be careful not to pierce the grommet itself when inserting the wires through it.
I did and when ever it rained, water rolled off my hood onto these wires and ran right into the cab of my 4Runner causing the carpet to mildew!
Took me forever to find out how water was entering my cab.
You may want to think about drilling a new hole and run the wires through that and waterproof it accordingly, or stick with the existing firewall grommet, but be sure after you are done to coat the wires at the grommet with a lot of black silicone to prevent water from entering.
I did this on the engine bay side and cab side to make sure I did not have any more leaking problems.
Problem solved.

If you go this route, you can choose to heat shrink the spade connectors and the wire, or use electrical tape.
Others have tried using a 3-prong switch with no luck.
I have found this mod works great with the OEM 2-prong rocker switch.



Step 2:

Once you have the 'harness' made, take it and the barrel connectors to the truck.
Before doing any electrical work on your 4Runner, disconnect the battery (socket wrench).

Pop one of the remaining factory switch blanks out and insert your harness into the void.
It may help to pop the fuse access panel off.
From there you will need to get the two wires through the firewall grommet (directly below the master cylinder).
I found that inserting a long zip tie through the grommet from within the engine compartment was sufficient to use as a 'fish' tool.
I then took my two wires from the switch and taped them to that same zip tie inside the vehicle.
Now go back to the engine compartment and carefully pull the zip tie out with your 2 new wires attached.

Once you have pulled the wires through the grommet, check to see if they come in contact with any sharp edges under the dash and throw away the ?fishing? zip tie tool.
In my case, I routed them cleanly and then zip tied them on to existing wire bundles.

Step 3:

Now you are ready to identify and cut the correct wire at the master cylinder. Pull the pressure sensor connector out from the master cylinder and undo any tape that keeps it bound to the other harnesses.



You will see red, black, and white wires right at the connector.
The red wire is the ground wire and is used for this modification.
Rather than spend 10 minutes explaining how to expose the wire, I'll just state that you will need to make your splice a few inches back from the connector.

Carefully open up the black plastic covering and then the gray shielding that covers the three wires (razor blade).
When you have exposed the wires enough, you will need to cut the red wire in half.

Now you have two options:

1. You can choose to use crimp-on barrel connectors to attach your new wires to each of the exposed ends of the previously cut red wire.

Or

2. For a more secure connection, you can solder your new wires to the exposed ends of the previously cut red wire.

If you choose Option 1, make sure to crimp your connectors properly.
I have seen others who have done Option 1, and the crimping action actually broke the fine wire, thus giving them intermittent results. .

I chose Option 2.
To do so, simply take one of your new wires and solder it to one of the exposed ends of the previously cut red wire.
Next, take your other new wire and solder it to the other exposed end of the previously cut red wire.
It does NOT matter which of the 2 new wires you solder to the red wires.
All you are doing is adding a longer connection to the pressure sensor connector via your 2 new wires.
The switch itself, when turned on, is what breaks the current to disable VSC & TRAC systems.

Once your harness is spliced in and covered (tape or heat shrink), you will want to get everything wrapped again properly. At this point you are almost done.

Step 4:

I situated my rocker switch so that the bottom half is pressed in when it is in the off position.
This matches the orientation of my two other rocker switches.
If you find later that it is reversed, you can simply switch the connectors on the back of the switch (see Step 5).

For what its worth, I made my own "TRAC OFF" label by scanning the factory TRAC OFF switch, darkening the image, and printing it on a standard mailing label.
A few coats of satin polyurethane spray on the actual rocker portion, and it turned out nice.



Step 5:

Reconnect your battery.
Plug the pressure connector into the master cylinder and start your truck.

Now, one of two outcomes will happen:

1. After you have started your truck and the ABS, TRAC & VSC lights all light up on the dash (might take a couple seconds), then the switch is in the "ON" position and working properly.
You have interrupted the ground for the pressure sensor connector and can operate the truck without any TRAC or VSC intervention!
You are now able disable TRAC & VSC while in ?Park? or on the fly.

2. If you start your truck and the ABS, TRAC & VSC lights DO NOT all light up on the dash, then the switch is in the "OFF" position.
Simply flip the switch and the ABS, TRAC & VSC lights should all come on.
If you find that your switch is reversed than what you would like to be, pull the switch out and switch the connectors on the back of the switch.

I wish it were as easy as flipping the switch to turn VSC & TRAC back on, but it?s not.
First, flip the switch to the ?Off? position and then turn your truck off.
Now restart your truck and all the systems should be back online.
Hence TRAC & VSC are working properly.

Since the system only needs to sense a break in the ground wire to cause a shutdown, you can also flip the switch ON, wait a few seconds, and then flip it back OFF.
TRAC & VSC will remain shut down (until you restart your truck), but this might help you remember the switch is OFF when you turn your truck off.

Enjoy the benefits of disabling TRAC & VSC!
 
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KellyJ said:
Yes, it's cutting power to the wheels, which will make you go slower. I think you should have a TRAC OFF button that disables it

yea i think near where the RR Diff would be if it had one. so just turn it off next time while i'm muddin? but leave it on while drivin on the road for safety purposes?
 
Sloan said:
yea i think near where the RR Diff would be if it had one. so just turn it off next time while i'm muddin? but leave it on while drivin on the road for safety purposes?

Correct! Man, next time you mud, with the first time having TRAC OFF, your world will be rocked:happy bda
 
Sloan said:
yea i think near where the RR Diff would be if it had one. so just turn it off next time while i'm muddin? but leave it on while drivin on the road for safety purposes?

you have the switch?

then yeah. do as you suggest. lucky sob.
 

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