Offroader5's Runner Thread....

[Offroader5]

Sweet build
Where do you keep your 33" spare?

What 33" spare?

The spare is one of the 265/70's that I was running previously. Size difference wouldn't be much just to get 'er home. Only issue with different sized spares is the VSC/traction control system will go wild thinking one tire is slipping since it's smaller and rotating faster. I need to do the manual switch mod for the VSC system.

Not sure if I will do a rear bumper with carrier in order to carry a correct size spare. Maybe when and if I go to 35's I will worry about it.

 

[Brutalguyracing]

What 33" spare?

The spare is one of the 265/70's that I was running previously. Size difference wouldn't be much just to get 'er home. Only issue with different sized spares is the VSC/traction control system will go wild thinking one tire is slipping since it's smaller and rotating faster. I need to do the manual switch mod for the VSC system.

Not sure if I will do a rear bumper with carrier in order to carry a correct size spare. Maybe when and if I go to 35's I will worry about it.

running different sized tires is a TERRIBLE IDEA on our trucks with full time 4wd
just asking for problems

 

[Offroader5]

Added some rear task lighting. Mostly for camping so I can prep food and see everything in the back when I need something...without always having to rely on a head lamp.

The LED's are two pieces cut from a single flexible strip. The strip is a dual row of cool white I bought off Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DHZABMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I bought this controller: 12V Remote Control LED Dimmer Switch & Strobe Controller - Plug & Play to use as the switch so I could operate via remote and have dimming capability. The strobe function is just an added bit of funk factor

Since I already have the aux Blue Sea fuse panel on the rear passenger fenderwell, I didn't have to run the wires far. The LED controller is mounted down by the fuse panel. I used some Gepco single pair cable I had left over from a previous project due to it's small form factor & that it is a single jacketed cable. This kept the wiring small enough that I was able to route both down through the rear wiper washer's rubber boot. All connections were soldered/heat shrinked, then all exposed runs were covered in black Techflex. I just used those little stick on plastic squares that you can zip-tie through for the wire mounting.

 

[Offroader5]

Audio related upgrade... This past weekend I did a bit of work on the audio side of things, and I still have a couple new subs heading my way.

I picked up the SP-DIF add-on card that installs into the Mosconi DSP and wired up a AMAS-2 module while I was at it. The SP-DIF card allows the connection of an audio source using optical cable for a digital signal in lieu of an analog signal using RCA's. The AMAS-2 module connects to the DSP via optical cable (hence the need for the SP-DIF card) and adds streaming via Bluetooth. Both my Samsung Note 2 & my Win8 tablet had no problem connecting and I can now stream high res music files directly into the DSP/rest of the system. All this means a bit cleaner signal due to less digital to analog conversion steps.

As I do not want to try and use the volume controls on my phone or tablet while driving, I also installed the RCD controller for the Mosconi DSP. Along with volume control, it also allows me to choose between tuning presets, adjust sub level, and even though I won't be using them, it also allows adjustment of balance & fader. I had a pretty wild idea of where to install the controller and it went better than I thought it would

I wasn't even sure I could get it to fit in the spot I wanted due to the thickness of the controller...but with half a days worth of head scratching and intricate work, it ended up pretty slick.
This is where she'll call home...the front flip out of my center console.

You can see the webbing of the cover will be in the way of the controller.

Here's the two pieces of the flip (inner & outer). Again you can see the webbing that will have to be cut out from the underside of the armrest cover.

Here is the final fit after a bit of detail work on the cut out.

Here's a view of how far it's sunk in.

 

[Offroader5]

Brackets made from some flat aluminum sheet.

Brackets in place.

Here's a front view with the screws installed. I was hoping to make the mounting stealthy, but after doing it this way...I think it looks just fine.

Once It was all at home in it's mount, unfortunately when closed, the knob of the controller didn't have enough clearance for the flip to close all the way. There was no additional room to sink in the controller any further to gain added clearance, so I just went ahead and drilled a clearance hole

I didn't snap pictures of the wire routing through this whole assembly and how much plastic removal, trimming, & shaving was involved...not to mention trying to route the cable without bending it too much and so it would move correctly when the flip was opened. After much trial & error & swearing...it finally fell together.

Here's more or less the finished product out of the vehicle.

Here's what it looks like from the drivers seat.



And....check this out.....


Driving to work yesterday morning, I realized how accessible it is in that location. With the flip open, I don't have to move at all to reach the dial. Your hand just naturally falls right on top of the knob with your arm in the normal postion on the arm rest. Originally I was going to put it into the popout cubby in the bottom of the center dash console, but didn't want to have to lean forward to reach the knob.

 

[Offroader5]

A small addition to the Runner. I wanted to be able to have my audio system, a storage drawer, and still be able to transport my mountain bike inside.

First I had to make the amp board narrower to leave the room for the pass through on the drivers side where the bike sits. Then I purchased a pair of what many call some of the best sounding shallow mount subwoofers. They are Stereo Integrity BM MKIV 12's. They're considered more an audiophile/sound quality sub vs. a loud SPL sub. They only require .5 cubes of volume each and the pair can handle the 1k watts I have on tap and provide some very nice low end sound in a very small enclosure.

Using shallow subs allowed me to design the enclosure very thin leaving room to house a decent sized storage drawer below it. Plus, it is low enough that I can still use the pull over cargo cover to hide it all (when I'm not carrying the bike). I used 3/4" plywood that covers the entire rear cargo floor to provide a good base for the drawer/sub box as well as an attachment point for the amp board hinges.

I have the box mounted down to the base using aluminum angle and T-nuts (not shown in these pics). I still need to buy the drawer glides ad build the drawer box. The entire top will get another layer of 3/4" ply that will countersink the subs, extend over to the passenger rear quarter, and extend back to the rear face of the drawer box creating all kinds of additional cubby hole storage areas.

Here's the pics along with my CAD drawing from the design process. Came out pretty close to the design.

 

[Champ1415]

Subbed