OH BOY.... I need help. List of codes inside.

[Wuzzy]

So I have never had a CEL come on in the 2 years I have owned my 2004 V8 Sport with 158,000 miles. Today I took a short drive, maybe 5 miles. Half way into my drive I noticed my CEL, and both VSC lights were on. Got to my sisters house and shut the truck off. About a half hour later I drove a few miles to Autozone to get the codes pulled. There came up as follows...
C1201
C1340
B2799
P0031

I did a bit of research on here but Im not so good with this stuff. Can someone point me in the right direction as to what I need to do to fix this stuff ?

 

[2014 Warthog]

Here is a site where you can put in the codes and see what they mean...

Toyota C1201 | TOYOTA OBD CODES

Hmm, or maybe not, only two codes listed and they are for completely different things... Usually if there are a lot of different things gone wrong at once then it's not necessarily any or most of the individual things but some other problem causing a combination of codes which a real tech would need to look into

 

[BlackWorksInc]

P0031- Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
C1201- Engine Control System Malfunction (This is the DTC that shuts off VSC & TRAC when the MIL is turned on.)
C1340- Open Center Differential Lock Signal Circuit (During Center Differential Lock On)
B2799- Engine Immobilizer System Malfunction

The P0031 indicates an issue with the AFR Circuit (or the sensor itself) on Bank 1, Sensor 1 and could be as simple as a bad sensor. The C1201 is a code set by Toyota's programming that shuts off VSC & TRAC functionality, basically whenever a DTC is set that turns on the MIL (as per OBDII requirements) this code is set and disables the VSC & TRAC systems and turns on the lights on the dash (in other words, don't worry about this DTC, once you correct the P0031 it will erase along with the ODBII DTC.) The C1340 is an interesting DTC, I just dealt with this in a non-4WD vehicle; but basically since your vehicle is a 4WD (I am assuming) the diagnostic approach will be different as there may be an issue with the circuit running from the ABS, transfercase, and/or 4WD module. The B2799 is an immobilizer error code set by a mismatch of data sent between the ECM and the Immobilizer module.

Were you by any chance able to get a break down which DTCs if any were "Current" or "History"? I'm somewhat surprised that Autozone had a scantool that pulled the C & B DTCS out of the vehicle as they typically just use code readers that only pull OBDII related DTCs from the ECM only.

 

[Wuzzy]

I dont know which ones are current.... but the way I posted them was the order they came out of the reader. Yes it is 4wd. I know my manifolds are bad. Would that cause any of the codes ?

 

[Wuzzy]

I pulled into a dirt parking lot on the way home to try to put it in 4 low to see if it was just a faulty code. The center diff lock will just blink when I push the button, and if I shift into neutral and try to engage 4lo the light on the dash flashes and I get a beeping but it will not engage.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I dont know which ones are current.... but the way I posted them was the order they came out of the reader. Yes it is 4wd. I know my manifolds are bad. Would that cause any of the codes ?

Not particularly, the P0031 has to do with the heater circuit and most of the time its usually a bad AFR sensor. The C1340 has to do with your Center Differential Lock (have you been using it regularly?) The reason I ask about "Current and History" is because "Current" indicates that the DTC is set by an issue occurring at that moment, where a "History" indicates that the DTC occurred sometime in the past, but is not happening now.

By the way have you had any issues with starting the vehicle lately and/or replaced the ECM recently?

 

[Wuzzy]

No, no issues starting at all. And never had anything to do with the ECM.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

How mechanically inclined are you?

 

[Wuzzy]

Not much I cant do with a set of wrenches and sockets. Just the whole electrical testing and stuff Im a little iffy on.

 

[miami_matt]

I would focus on the p code. The others will probably clear once you get that fixed. I just had a list of codes last weekly one p code. P0442, plus like two c codes and some b codes. Those are usually symptomatic of the p code.

 

[Wuzzy]

Im taking it to the dealer today to get the codes looked at. Hopefully they can yell me whats wrong then Ill fix it myself. I HATE paying someone else to fix my stuff.

 

[Wuzzy]

Well the dealer pulled the codes. All where old but the bad O2 sensor code. It says heated bank 1 O2 bad. Is that the drivers side ? Dealer wanted $335 to replace it so I told my wife to pass and Ill replace it myself. Any recommendations on where to get it ? How hard is it going to be to get to that sucker ?

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Well the dealer pulled the codes. All where old but the bad O2 sensor code. It says heated bank 1 O2 bad. Is that the drivers side ? Dealer wanted $335 to replace it so I told my wife to pass and Ill replace it myself. Any recommendations on where to get it ? How hard is it going to be to get to that sucker ?

That's what I figured, the B & C codes were probably in the vehicle's history at some point but are not having an issue right now.

The sensor isn't too bad to get at, I would get it nice and warmed up and hit it with PB Blaster or what ever you like to use to loosen bolts up with a bit before you go to remove it to make your life easier. You can probably get it from most autoparts stores, I would recommend you buy either an NGK or Denso part as they tend to work best with Japanese vehicles (I know it seems weird... but its true), the dealership will probably even sell you the part if you really want factory parts.