oil change

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wcn

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I have a 2010 4runner 30,000 miles - went to my local station today for oil change.Told him to use synthetic oil(that's what they used in past at dealer). went back later and he told me I didn't need synthetic oil instead he had changed it using synthetic blend and come back at 4000 miles. What should I do?
Thanks,wcn
 
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I would find a different shop based solely on the fact that you told him what you wanted and he decided that you didn't need it. That being said, syt blend will not hurt anything, and you can just switch back to full syt next oil change.
 
I would make him change it and the filter to what you asked because he did not have permission to do anything else. Does not matter what he thinks it doesnt need when you asked for something specific.
 
WHAT OIL TO USE!?!? oh so many choices!

I'm going to stick with MOB 1 Thanks for the info.

What weight oil do you all recommend?

V6 43K miles
90% HWY
9.9% Local
0.1% Harpack

5-30
0-30
5-30 high mileage




Its Hot and Hotter out here.
 
Use the recommended weight. o-30 won't work properly b/c the engine wasn't designed for it. And it's too early for high mileage.
 
Change the oil your self. If you dont know how, learn. This is such a simple procedure that if done wrong can cost you an engine. No way will I leave that up to aomeone else.

I would file a complaint with the BBB so other consumers know not to trust that place.

I really dont like auto shops that take advantage of people. But then, they are the reason I learned to do my own mechanical work. So I guess they have a purpose.
 
utobiaus said:
Use the recommended weight. o-30 won't work properly b/c the engine wasn't designed for it. And it's too early for high mileage.
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Exactly. There is a lot of "tradition" mixed with myth in today. You have people who were taught perhaps by parents about changing weights in summer and winter. I had an older 4runner that I would switch weights during those seasons. It was a different engine, a different time in Oil technology and with conventional oil.

Today, however, oil technology (synthetic) and engine technology (tighter tolerances, stronger overall design) makes this counter productive. Synthetic oil IS far SUPERIOR and is what most modern cars should run. Lets avoid the conventional vs. synthetic oil in older cars, as it is like beating a dead horse.

We aren't talking a 20 year old 4cylinder with leaky seals. A 2004, 2005, 2006; these are modern engines and should be run at the weight specified in the manual. 5w30 in your modern 4runner is what that engine wants.

When we used to switch weights, we had older oil technology and older engine technology. A lot of that "conventional wisdom" was for conventional oil and engines. :) Time to evolve a bit.
 
utobiaus said:
The engine is made for 5-30 correct? Neither 0 or 10 will work correctly. Using either will damage the engine over the long run.
An explanation of motor oil viscosities:
Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms
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I am sorry, but that is so not true. Read the link and you can decipher why it is not true.

All 3 of those are a 30 weight oil at operating temp and will protect your engine just the same given it is the same brand oil. The "0", "5" or "10" will be its viscosity at start up. Only in cold climates will there be a difference to your engine and it is just the ease at which the oil flows (viscosity) at a given temperature below a warmed up operating temp. The colder it is where you live the lower the number you want. For most all climates a "5" works best all around and thus is why Toyota gives that recommendation. If you live in Alaska, Canada etc where you often have temps well below zero, your Toy is going to like a 0W30 much better.
 
So. Uber Extreme temps are always a concern. We should leave it like this, for 99% of the population, the manufacturer recommendation is what you should run. They designed and tested the engine. That said, obviously super extreme temps on either end make modifications necessary.

That said, modern synthetic oils and engines have mitigated this to a large degree for most situations.
 
wcn said:
I have a 2010 4runner 30,000 miles - went to my local station today for oil change.Told him to use synthetic oil(that's what they used in past at dealer). went back later and he told me I didn't need synthetic oil instead he had changed it using synthetic blend and come back at 4000 miles. What should I do?
Thanks,wcn
Click to expand...

Run that oil 5000 miles and find a different shop in the mean time who will do what you want done.
 
DC runner said:
So. Uber Extreme temps are always a concern. We should leave it like this, for 99% of the population, the manufacturer recommendation is what you should run. They designed and tested the engine. That said, obviously super extreme temps on either end make modifications necessary.

That said, modern synthetic oils and engines have mitigated this to a large degree for most situations.
Click to expand...

Very true.

My point was that they WILL NOT hurt your engine and they will work correctly. I myself run 5-30, but have thought about 0-30.
My garage never freezes inside during the cold MN winters so it is not needed when running synthetic like I do (Amsoil).
 
DC runner said:
So. Uber Extreme temps are always a concern. We should leave it like this, for 99% of the population, the manufacturer recommendation is what you should run. They designed and tested the engine. That said, obviously super extreme temps on either end make modifications necessary.

That said, modern synthetic oils and engines have mitigated this to a large degree for most situations.
Click to expand...

Good point, and point well taken.

I live in South TX. We've had 3 digit heat for the last 6 weeks. I think 10W-30 SYNTHETIC would be good. What are you thoughts?:fro:

BTW on Toyota 120 they rec that we use 5W-30 EXTENDED mileage for HOT climates like TX, AZ
 
I don't think it would matter. The hot temps would push the 5 into a higher viscosity before you start anyway. And since it's so hot both would get to the 30 viscosity (operating viscosity) in a hurry.

I don't know if I would use extended. I just change my oil at 5k just to be safe (Mobil 1). I want my t4r to be around for a long time so I don't mind spending a little more on maintenance. Cheaper than a new engine. Just make sure you get a good filter...Mobil, OEM, Wix. If you are going to run the oil longer than 5k change the filter out at the mid-way point. The oil won't be broken down yet but there are particulates that the filter 'grabs'.

Personal choice, I stick with the 5-30 year round. I live in Nebraska so we go from 100+ to -20.

As a side note on how awesome Toyota are...deployed to Kandahar (Afghanistan)...90% of cars and trucks are Toyotas. And highest temp I saw was 137F and the Toyota I was driving ran fine. Although that was a diesel, wish the US had their diesels. Supercharged diesel...wicked awesome.
 
I would file a complaint with the BBB so other consumers know not to trust that place.
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The BBB is NOTHING...At most they'll just take away his BBB plaque (if he has one). They may or may NOT report it to other people...depending on how much money he gives the BBB each year.

Obviously the Synthetic blend isn't going to hurt anything. Live with it...and just find another place to do your oil changes...or do it yourself.

My 05 V6 is one of the easiest engines to do an oil change on I've ever done. Filter is as easy as it gets.

As for weight...Stick with what's in the owners manual. Mine is 5w-30. This is a very good oil for all temps. I wouldn't change it. If you live in a place that never gets below 50..then 10w-30 is probably OK..but I'd still stick with 5w-30.
 
MICA4R said:
Good point, and point well taken.

I live in South TX. We've had 3 digit heat for the last 6 weeks. I think 10W-30 SYNTHETIC would be good. What are you thoughts?:fro:

BTW on Toyota 120 they rec that we use 5W-30 EXTENDED mileage for HOT climates like TX, AZ
Click to expand...



So, while I don't believe it is a straight linear curve (perhaps an oil expert can say); the multi viscosities of modern oil moves as oil temperature changes. So, in essence, with modern oil; you will see a change from 5w30 towards 30 the warmer it gets. I have no idea of the exact curve is, but you get the drift.

I would honestly say that the recommended 5w30 still meets your needs. I have no idea what polymers they put in "extended" vs. "normal", but it takes a lot to breakdown modern synthetic oil. My bet is those additives make the molecule bond stronger? Oil bonds breakdown over time by heat. Synthetic bonds are stronger to begin with, so that is why changing your oil before 5k is wasting money on syth oil, where with conventional you NEEDED it done 3k.

If we could get a hold of some internal oil company temperature curve data, then we really could see if 5w30 vs. 10w30 in extreme climates was worth it. My thinking is that it doesn't make much difference in your typical modern engine.
 
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