Oil filter - Rant - call for help

Retrieve the 5# precision sledge instrument from the Jeremy Clarkson tool drawer and get to work...
 

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Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.

Because the metal ones look macho and pretty at the same time .
I like plastic--DIY and no dealer dork problems.
 
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You're likely going to have to break the housing off. They probably impacted it on, and being it didn't crack then is honestly a god send for you.

I switched over to the metal housing, all that is required to change is the inner spring? Or whatever the piece is officially called. Then it's metal and you can use more power on it.

I use the MotivX removal tool for mine and it's worked flawlessly. I always recommend to use the socket over sticking the 3/8" in. Just get more control on it that way.

You may want to use a larger breaker bar or stack up some extensions on it to get more torque. It will pop loose, it's just a pain. This and the stripped skid plate holes is exactly what I stopped going to Toyota for things I could do myself.
 
THIS. This is just one of the many complaints I have with the 5th generation 4Runner. In addition to stuck filter housing, you'll also get stuck filter housing plug, and that's after you have to remove the skid plate and trim just to reach them. I could change the oil in my 4th gen in under 15 minutes. Now it's an hour or more, plus the above setbacks.
 
Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.

Amen.
 
THIS. This is just one of the many complaints I have with the 5th generation 4Runner. In addition to stuck filter housing, you'll also get stuck filter housing plug, and that's after you have to remove the skid plate and trim just to reach them. I could change the oil in my 4th gen in under 15 minutes. Now it's an hour or more, plus the above setbacks.

Sell now--you will be happier.
 
I put an aluminum one on yesterday for peace of mind, never had an issue with the plastic one other than taking it off sounded like it was about to crack and I always caked the threads and gasket in oil. The aluminum seemed to thread on much more precise, I was able to hand tighten it all the way then snug it appropriately, and it stops hard as it should no way you can crank it tighter as was allowable with the plastic housing. This part should have been used on this motor in my humble opinion.
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Played this game again today and only wish Toyota could have made it more complicated. I must have torqued the "filter drain cap, plug thingy, P.O.S" a bit to much and was turning the whole housing. Grabbed the trusty vise-grip oil filter wrench and made short work of separating the two pieces.I Really need to convert it to a normal filter.
 
Do you have pics of the completed product?

I have a metal cap where the ratchet/extension male fits into the camp tool and that has never stripped on me.

BUT, I grew so frustrated at how this oil cap made me feel like a rookie mechanic that I spent this past weekend installing a full Baxter relocation setup:
 
Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.

I bet overtightened metal withstands removal better than overtightened plastic. Maybe not a solution, but certainly an improvement.
 
Do you have pics of the completed product?

If you search “Baxter” you full see a write up by another member, but here’s a quick shot of my finished product. I just did my first oil change since moving the filter and I was very happy about it.
 

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Doesn't solve OP's problem but for the several of you who complained about the drain in the filter housing... just leave that plug in there. Take off the entire housing to drain the filter and don't worry about the plug and plug gasket. Saves a ton of time and really isn't significantly more messy.

If you then add a skid plate with a filter access hole you economize a good bit of time and it really makes the whole process substantially easier.
 
I go hand tight, then 1/8" more

I'll assume you're able to get it almost to the top by hand and then the "1/8" finishes it off.

It amazes me that some people(especially the idiots at the dealerships) do not realize this plastic(or metal version) can only go up so far and it's done. Not like the spin-on types where it's possible to keep turning and turning depending on your strength and determination.

If you are paying attention, your eyes and the resistance you'll feel once at top will tell you when to stop turning.
 
Free to a good home. This worked great for 65k miles but since I’ve relocated and changed to a spin on filter, have no use for it. Let me know if someone wants it and I’ll send it out.
 

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If you search “Baxter” you full see a write up by another member, but here’s a quick shot of my finished product. I just did my first oil change since moving the filter and I was very happy about it.

Thanks. The location of your mount turns it to an inverted filter. What happens when you unscrew that filter; where does the oil go?
Thanks,
 
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Thanks. The location of your mount turns it to an inverted filter. What happens when you unscrew that filter; where does the oil go?
Thanks,

Good question. The mount has a trough that catches the oil from the filter when unscrewed. It’s a very intuitive design. My first oil change with this setup resulted in not one drip of oil. Imagine that!
 
Played this game again today and only wish Toyota could have made it more complicated. I must have torqued the "filter drain cap, plug thingy, P.O.S" a bit to much and was turning the whole housing. Grabbed the trusty vise-grip oil filter wrench and made short work of separating the two pieces.I Really need to convert it to a normal filter.

I'm in the same boat. The oil filter housing will turn, but I can't get the metal plug out. How did you get it removed? Thx.
 
I'm in the same boat. The oil filter housing will turn, but I can't get the metal plug out. How did you get it removed? Thx.

I was able to hit the wrench with my hand sharply and that action broke the filter housing drain plug free. When I just tried to unscrew it the filter housing unscrewed.
 
I have a metal cap where the ratchet/extension male fits into the camp tool and that has never stripped on me.

BUT, I grew so frustrated at how this oil cap made me feel like a rookie mechanic that I spent this past weekend installing a full Baxter relocation setup:
This looks fantastic!
Is this the product you used? If so, does it come with the converter and hoses/fittings?
Inverted Remote Oil Filter Mount - Baxter Performance
 
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