Oil relocation kits

I'm not the guy that designed the engine, so I have no idea what's possible. What you said makes a lot of sense. All I'm saying is the oil system is the last thing I would mess with in a car that I want to be reliable. Just my opinion.

EDIT: I think I read several threads along the lines of this one:

Oil filter relocation warning! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Not trying to deter anyone from doing what they want to do, but it's worth noting.

Hmm interesting I've never heard of any issues like that before. That was however on the 3rz... not sure if it makes a difference or not and I don't know if he added in additional fluid to compensate. At any rate... good information for others to make an informed decision. Thanks for sharing.
 
Second 0:20 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRRgw4B7R-I

Another happy customer Tech Review: The Long Waited FRAM OIL FILTER REVIEW! - Automotive Social | DSLReports Forums

I can't find it, but there is a phenomenal oil filter comparison. Fram was by far on the low end of the totem poll and funny enough each level of the fram filter line were essentially the same.

Like I said, I'm not going orange just yet, but that Jeep talked about how Fram admitted they made crappy filters before but had new quality control stuff in place. The dslreport article was written in February of 2009 and he talks about how the tear down actually happened the previous June, and that it was a filter he got from his grandfather who bought it in bulk during a fire sale one year, so who knows how old that thing is?

I just think it may be time for a newer Fram review.
 
Like I said, I'm not going orange just yet, but that Jeep talked about how Fram admitted they made crappy filters before but had new quality control stuff in place. The dslreport article was written in February of 2009 and he talks about how the tear down actually happened the previous June, and that it was a filter he got from his grandfather who bought it in bulk during a fire sale one year, so who knows how old that thing is?

I just think it may be time for a newer Fram review.

That's kind of what I was thinking Mgyver1. And tearing down a filter in your garage and looking at it and making comments about what it looks like doesn't do much to attest to how well it functions. All of these filter manufactures pay engineers a lot of money to design their products.

When I originally read the post I thought there was something actually wrong with fram filters, not just poor opinions.
 
That's kind of what I was thinking Mgyver1. And tearing down a filter in your garage and looking at it and making comments about what it looks like doesn't do much to attest to how well it functions. All of these filter manufactures pay engineers a lot of money to design their products.

When I originally read the post I thought there was something actually wrong with fram filters, not just poor opinions.

I just think it's time to give them another shot and have some filters cut open to compare. I'm still going to be running my oversized OEM 90915-YZZD3 filters for a while, but I'm just trying to be optimistic about them trying to improve their stuff. Last time I bought an air filter I looked at the Fram and STP they had at Autozone, and even thought the Fram was $1-$2 more it was made in Mexico rather than China. And since I'm on a "buy as little Made in China stuff as possible," kick, or BALMICSAP for short, I paid the extra $ for Hencho en Mexico.
 
I had one (Transdapt) installed about 10 years ago and it was pretty good. I had it mounted vertically just below the battery. I removed it after installing the 3'' BL as it was easier to access it through the gap in the wheel well. I just throw a rag under the filter before I remove it and there's no mess.

Here's some pics of the old set-up:

oilrelocside15qt.jpg~original


oilreloctop1px.jpg~original


oilrelocside26tz.jpg~original


oilrelocbot0gm.jpg~original
im not sure of the brand, but it looks the same as yours. have been running it for better than 10 years. other then a slight bit of seeping right at the connections, ive had zero issues.

this is however not on a 3rd gen, but on my v8 swapped 85. I had to move it, due to it hitting the frame in the original spot.
 
If factory engineers gave a rats arse about what is best then this engine wouldn't have a silencer in the intake, would have a better breathing airbox, a way better lifetime air filter (not cheap paper) that comes stock and a better muffler, all of which make the truck run better and gives you about 2mpg better mileage.
It would have much beefier front brakes like the Tundra and have the same in the rear instead of drum brakes.

It would come with a bug deflector, come with top of the line dual batteries.
Come from factory with nice rock sliders and with a built in Ultra/Scan Gauge in the dash. Come with nice weatherguard mats.

Factory is almost never the best, it is usually the easiest and cheapest that appeals to the lowest common denominator while still being reliable.

Bypass Oil Filters improve the efficiency of the engine, better oil cooling, better filtration, which over the life of the engine should translate to a longer cleaner running engine.

Having said that, for me personally I would not simply "relocate" the oil filter largely because for $14 I can have someone else do it and more importantly dispose of the old oil properly which is the biggest hassle of DIY oil change to me. THAT is the easiest way to change your oil and WAY worth the $14 to me.
I would leave the filter location alone but install a Bypass Filter for way better filtration.
The bypass filter only takes about 10% of the oil from the top of the engine from the oil pressure sending unit and filters it far cleaner than any regular spin on filter ever could. Will filter all the oil about every 5-6 minutes. Adds a solid 1 extra quart of oil to the system.
Would cost around $275 at first, add about $8 to each oil change (1qt extra oil) have to change the Bypass filter every 2 years ($40) so for me that would translate to an extra $56 every 2 years, or $2 a month.
I have been planning to do this to mine for 2 years now but I am just too #!^* lazy to do it.
I was going to go with the Amsoil Bypass and put the return oil on the oil filler cap, that would be like continuously adding fresh oil as you drive.

That BTW should have also been put on every engine from the factory if factory engineers really gave a crap about what is truly best for the engine.
 
I just think it's time to give them another shot and have some filters cut open to compare. I'm still going to be running my oversized OEM 90915-YZZD3 filters for a while, but I'm just trying to be optimistic about them trying to improve their stuff. Last time I bought an air filter I looked at the Fram and STP they had at Autozone, and even thought the Fram was $1-$2 more it was made in Mexico rather than China. And since I'm on a "buy as little Made in China stuff as possible," kick, or BALMICSAP for short, I paid the extra $ for Hencho en Mexico.

Ha! When that case of OEM filters is gone are you gonna be the first to "give them another shot"?

If I know you, and I think I do...you'll pass ;)
 
If factory engineers gave a rats arse about what is best then this engine wouldn't have a silencer in the intake, would have a better breathing airbox, a way better lifetime air filter (not cheap paper) that comes stock and a better muffler, all of which make the truck run better and gives you about 2mpg better mileage.
It would have much beefier front brakes like the Tundra and have the same in the rear instead of drum brakes.

It would come with a bug deflector, come with top of the line dual batteries.
Come from factory with nice rock sliders and with a built in Ultra/Scan Gauge in the dash. Come with nice weatherguard mats.

Factory is almost never the best, it is usually the easiest and cheapest that appeals to the lowest common denominator while still being reliable.

Bypass Oil Filters improve the efficiency of the engine, better oil cooling, better filtration, which over the life of the engine should translate to a longer cleaner running engine.

Having said that, for me personally I would not simply "relocate" the oil filter largely because for $14 I can have someone else do it and more importantly dispose of the old oil properly which is the biggest hassle of DIY oil change to me. THAT is the easiest way to change your oil and WAY worth the $14 to me.
I would leave the filter location alone but install a Bypass Filter for way better filtration.
The bypass filter only takes about 10% of the oil from the top of the engine from the oil pressure sending unit and filters it far cleaner than any regular spin on filter ever could. Will filter all the oil about every 5-6 minutes. Adds a solid 1 extra quart of oil to the system.
Would cost around $275 at first, add about $8 to each oil change (1qt extra oil) have to change the Bypass filter every 2 years ($40) so for me that would translate to an extra $56 every 2 years, or $2 a month.
I have been planning to do this to mine for 2 years now but I am just too #!^* lazy to do it.
I was going to go with the Amsoil Bypass and put the return oil on the oil filler cap, that would be like continuously adding fresh oil as you drive.

That BTW should have also been put on every engine from the factory if factory engineers really gave a crap about what is truly best for the engine.

Ha! Nice rant. You kinda lost me at the bug deflector, but made up for it on the sliders ;)
 

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