Oil residue on inside rear wheels/1998 4runner

[Ron Helmuth]

thanks for prevention note

thanks gsgallant for that prevention tip as I will make that my priority modification now-I had heard it was a good idea but not that many of us even cross water so I kind of been putting it off

 

[GSGALLANT]

Re: thanks for prevention note

thanks gsgallant for that prevention tip as I will make that my priority modification now-I had heard it was a good idea but not that many of us even cross water so I kind of been putting it off

Yeah. I realize that. I don't do very many water crossings either (which is the main reason for extending breaters), but the breathers will get clogged anyways due to rust or dirt. It's best to extend them up to a clean area to keep them working properly, and preferably, like I mentioned, replace them with a small inline filter if you extend it high enough to ensure that the filter will never get submerged in water.

 

[californiak]

SealsGoneBad and Bearings Also

Just finished the job yesterday, changed everyting on both sides, seals inner/outer, bearings, brakes, turned drums. Did not drive yet, will check front end today and test drive.

Inner seals were no problem to do except putting new ones in. Hope I did not damage them. But thats easy to fix if I did. Couple of hours and $8 per seal. Thanks to Kyles informative thread with pix.

Took bearings to be done at local machine shop. They just changed the bearings and outer seals, no need to buy new ABS rings and collars they said if done right there is no damage to those. They were right.

Total cost was around $300/both sides for everything. I saved around $1400 compared to dealers quote of $1580 + tax $120 = $1700.

The worse part was the cleaning everything. It was a mess. Plus working outside in 100+ degrees California sunshine, sweating like a pig - work for 15 min, rest for two hours, LOL.

The breather valve was OK, it was the bearings that were really bad (a lot of play) and that was most likely the cause of seals failure.

Thanks for all info guys, could not do it without your help.

Thanks

 

[Ghostrider]

What did you use to drive the new seals in? I tried this last month and could not get the new seal to go in worth anything. Granted I was using a harbor freight seal driver which just did not transfer force from the hammer well. I finally gave up and took it to local mechanic who had a better driver. Freezing did not seem to do anything.

 

[californiak]

I used the same Harbor Freight tool, which is a piece of crap and it was difficult, but I did get them in. Did not test drive it yet so I am hoping for the best. But I definitely would not reccomend that tool to NE1.

 

[californiak]

SealsGoneBad

Test drove it yesterday for few hours, no leaks.

Just for my info - where should I be looking for leaks if there would be one, what would be the first sign of seal failure and/or incorrect install?

Just want to make sure its not leaking fer sure!!!!

It was my first replacement job.

Thanks again

 

[RunnerUp]

did you clean your wheel out real good from all the old oil? if you didnt, do it and then just look on your wheel and inside the wheel for fresh oil leaks, chances are its all good, this is one of those things that you cant really mess up

 

[RunnerUp]

and as long as you dont hear any weird noises or feel anything in the steering wheel and pedals you should be good

 

[californiak]

SealsGoneBad

I did clean everything real good, took for ever, what a messy stinky job. That gear oil stinks.

So far no sign of any leaks. Brakes are fine, no noise or anything.

Kyle, thanks to your write up it turned out to be very easy job.

 

[RunnerUp]

next time you do this, as long as your wheels arent painted, try brake cleaner, it cuts RIGHT through the grease!! sounds like you did it right, im glad my write up helped... it took me a couple days to do because it was my first time and i never found a really good write up on it..

 

[adyer]

Seal job Q's....

Hey Kyle,

Looks like you were able to preserve the ABS ring-- is that so? Seems like everyone else says you will have to destroy it just to get it off, or will do so trying not to destroy it. How did you do it?

Also: Where did you get your bearings; Toyota OEM's are 75 bucks and AutoZone ones are more (you said you only dropped like $120)

Thanks dude!

Adyer

 

[californiak]

Take out the axle and find a good parts store that also has automotive machine shop, the old fashioned one, in your area and take it there, (not the big chain stores!), they will have the parts and do it right there - you are in and out in 1 hour. Thats what I did in So Cal. Total cost to replace bearings and outer seals was $90 per side and it included all parts. They did not have to replace the ABS sensing ring or the collars, they reused them. If they know what they doing they do not get destroyed and can be put back in. Just the bearings and outer seals were replaced.

Good luck.

 

[adyer]

Awesome, dude.

So you didn't replace the inner seals? How can I know if the shop is "old school"? Just don't go to the dealer's shop?

 

[californiak]

I did the inner seals myself, also the rear brakes, just had the machine shop turn the drums - $8 each. Brake shoes were $30.

Look for a smal parts store with large wharehouse and machine shop in the back that is used by small car repair shops and it has been in business for long time - hard to describe what I mean. You'll know it when you see it, nothing fancy, no fancy showroom, no fancy uniforms, everobody looks like mechanic inside and no ties. LOL

Definitely forget the stealerships!

 

[adyer]

Good ideer. I think I'll try it myself. I just did brakes all around too, thus prompting me to decide I actually do need to do the seal job too. Will do and post later... tired of being underneath the thing for now!

 

[bratliff]

I pulled my drums last weekend and found a small amount of seapage.. not enough the come out fo the drum or onto the backing plate... just found it once the drum was off.
Bearings were tight no slop, and there is no noise.. I was just inspecting the brakes since I bought the truck and had not checked on anything.

Do you think I could get away with just the inner seals since I caught it soo early?

BTW - mileage on the truck is almost 170K...

 

[californiak]

Before you take the axle off make sure its gear oil and not brake fluid thats leaking.

Once you take the axle out you can decide, if there is no play in bearings you should be ok.
You will see how bad the leak is and how much gear oil is present in bearin area. Make sure you have container to catch the oil when you pull the axle, messy job!!

Good luck

 

[californiak]

Also I would give you the same advice I got - when in doubt, since you already have it out do all you can for few extra bucks and have no worry for another 100K or more.

 

[RunnerUp]

Re: Seal job Q's....

Hey Kyle,

Looks like you were able to preserve the ABS ring-- is that so? Seems like everyone else says you will have to destroy it just to get it off, or will do so trying not to destroy it. How did you do it?

Also: Where did you get your bearings; Toyota OEM's are 75 bucks and AutoZone ones are more (you said you only dropped like $120)

Thanks dude!

Adyer

hey, i was not able to preserve the ABS ring... i tried, but it wasnt worth it. i got my bearings at toyota, 120 was just for the one side, the bearing and abs rings and all was about 90 and the machine shop cost 30$

 

[bratliff]

thanks for the info, yeah I already confirmed its gear oil.. I was hoping it was a leaking wheel cylinder.. may tackle this in the upcoming weekend....