Should I change my rear wheel bearings? During regear?

[Z28yoda]

Hey all newb here,
I am currently working on my 2000 4Runner 5 spd with 150k. I am currently installing an icon lift redoing the suspension front and rear. I also pulled the front and rear differentials for a regear and an Eaton e locker for the rear. I originally had planned and have everything to do the rear wheel bearings and seals. But wanted to see what everybody thoughts were on making that move now or just leave the originals in until have have an issue. No noise or leaks prior to disassembled. Any advice would be appreciated thanks. hope I posted this correct.

 

[clearock]

IMO U should get another 100k out of whats there, unless there are other variables only you know about, with that said, it's not going to hurt anything to do said now but given that easy at getting to said in the future I'd leave things alone... a lot can happen in 100K and you may not even have the vehicle by then. Other then pulling the axles' replacement of the bearing are a completely separate job from what you are currently doing. I'd look at and take extra care not to damage the axle housing seal or you could change out said with the easy of getting at said with what you have already done.

 

[T4R2014]

These are all at least twenty years old. "Fix it when it breaks" is how old vehicles turn into rolling piles of crap. I would definitely get them done. Now if the guy doing the job isn't familiar with the nuances of it, then you may open a can of worms.

 

[clearock]

These are all at least twenty years old. "Fix it when it breaks" is how old vehicles turn into rolling piles of crap. I would definitely get them done. Now if the guy doing the job isn't familiar with the nuances of it, then you may open a can of worms.

There are sealed units with weather protection on both sides, oil, grease and multiple seals. any vehicle turns into a pile of crap if maintain is not keep up with, he only has 150K. At this point his engine has 25yrs so he should probably change out engines main bearings and oil pump before they fail...? in 100k his bearings will still be fine when they are changed.

 

[T4R2014]

There are sealed units with weather protection on both sides, oil, grease and multiple seals. any vehicle turns into a pile of crap if maintain is not keep up with, he only has 150K. At this point his engine has 25yrs so he should probably change out engines main bearings and oil pump before they fail...? in 100k his bearings will still be fine when they are changed.

The money is already flowing out during a regear. Rear axle seal failure at that mileage isn't unrealistic, seen it. And don't think you can get away with slapping a new seal it it's already leaking.

 

[Z28yoda]

The money is already flowing out during a regear. Rear axle seal failure at that mileage isn't unrealistic, seen it. And don't think you can get away with slapping a new seal it it's already leaking.

Are you saying it will probably leak because it's been apart or just if I were add a new seal to mix without doing the entire bearing replacement? With the new lock rings etc

 

[chandaman_05]

If the bearings feel good, you can just install new seals if you want to have some protection without going all out on wheel bearings. The oil seals are the common failure points on the rear axle anyways and then you also won't have to mess with a hydraulic press for anything. I think OEM rear axle oil seals are like $20 each.

 

[chandaman_05]

Are you saying it will probably leak because it's been apart or just if I were add a new seal to mix without doing the entire bearing replacement? With the new lock rings etc

IDK if maybe he's referring to that if the OEM seal is already leaking and you have gear oil in your wheel bearings, you should 100% replace the bearings. If the seal is good however and your wheel bearing is dry, you can, if you choose, keep the wheel bearing and just put a new seal in.

A lot of the time though, the oil seal will partially fail and you won't have tons of gear oil spilling everywhere, but some will leak into the bearing area and it will be all covered in gear oil when you disassemble even though there isn't a noticeable leak inside of your drums.

Total parts for a complete seal and bearing rebuild will be about $200 so its not a crazy expensive replacement with good OEM bearings and parts.

One thing I will recommend is always 100% use an OEM collar. I've had some aftermarket collars in the past be so out of spec they slide right on and off of the axle without a press and they fail within miles of putting them back on. It needs to be a good press fit onto the axle shaft and it should have a smooth machined surface as this is making contact with the axle seal to keep the gear oil in.

 

[Z28yoda]

Thank again for all the input I’m just gonna bite the bullet and do the work now. Bearing and all since I already have all the oem parts. it I don’t want to replace the seal just to have a possible leak small or large I want to feel confident about finishing it correctly. Thanks for helping me decide.

 

[T4R2014]

Are you saying it will probably leak because it's been apart or just if I were add a new seal to mix without doing the entire bearing replacement? With the new lock rings etc

The new OEM seal is an updated part that sits further inboard than the original seal. Slapping in a new seal is a great way to cause a leak. And maybe you want to do it cheap and press on new retainers but flipped and at correct depth to ensure proper seal contact. At that point you've got press work going on - what is another $40 for a bearing and $25 in seals? I'm sure you could find an aftermarket seal that might work for 3 months - not wise considering the labor.

 

[Z28yoda]

The new OEM seal is an updated part that sits further inboard than the original seal. Slapping in a new seal is a great way to cause a leak. And maybe you want to do it cheap and press on new retainers but flipped and at correct depth to ensure proper seal contact. At that point you've got press work going on - what is another $40 for a bearing and $25 in seals? I'm sure you could find an aftermarket seal that might work for 3 months - not wise considering the labor.

Thanks for the clarification. I have new oem seals, oem bearings and new oem retainers. I’m gonna do it all and just get over with so I don’t have to worry and lose sleep over not doing this right. I’m glad I asked and appreciate your insight thanks