I know some of you have been following my post about frame rot, (Sorry I didn't post pics).
Now that Toyota has declined any help, I have decided to get the frame repaired. Once it's done I plan on oiling the inside of the frame using a pressure sprayer. My question is; does anyone know of an oil that is thin enough to spray and stay on the metal? Preferably it is as harmless to the environment as possible.
i would get some POR15, thin it with some thinner and use a bug sprayer to spray though out and all over your frame. You should be able to get some flexible wands and get all the nook and crannies of the frame and even the body too.
POR15 would work aweseome.....IF you knew for certain that you got everything completely sealed with it. If there are any gaps or cracks or anything, then you'll still be trapping corrosion, and it will probably just be worse off for it.
I personally wouldn't trust using something like POR15 in places I couldn't see. I use Fluid Film. I actually just bought 2 gallons, along with an undercoating spray gun from a seller on eBay. I really like the product, but I haven't ever used the undercoating gun before. We'll see how it works this year.
I know some of you have been following my post about frame rot, (Sorry I didn't post pics).
Now that Toyota has declined any help, I have decided to get the frame repaired. Once it's done I plan on oiling the inside of the frame using a pressure sprayer. My question is; does anyone know of an oil that is thin enough to spray and stay on the metal? Preferably it is as harmless to the environment as possible.
I just pickled mine with fluid film. I got a gallon and a cheapie spray gun for it for $60 something from fluidfilmking on the auction site. A gallon is enough for two vehicles or so.
From my experience, something lanolin based like fluid film will stick around longer and slow rust down more than regular types of oil. I don't think I would spray FF in body panels because it has a particular smell to it but for undercarriage, no problem.
Have also mixed hot lanolin with mineral spirits and sprayed with a hand sprayer. Seems crazy smelly when you do it but the mineral spirits dissolve quite fast and leave less smell than the FF after a short time.
I've had more than one vehicle die from rust. Trying to be proactive about it and see where that gets me.
POR15 would work aweseome.....IF you knew for certain that you got everything completely sealed with it. If there are any gaps or cracks or anything, then you'll still be trapping corrosion, and it will probably just be worse off for it.
I personally wouldn't trust using something like POR15 in places I couldn't see. I use Fluid Film. I actually just bought 2 gallons, along with an undercoating spray gun from a seller on eBay. I really like the product, but I haven't ever used the undercoating gun before. We'll see how it works this year.
Even though that gun is a cheap POS, I found it to work great. Have to move kind of fast or you really pile it on. I didn't mess with different regulator settings though.
i would get some POR15, thin it with some thinner and use a bug sprayer to spray though out and all over your frame. You should be able to get some flexible wands and get all the nook and crannies of the frame and even the body too.
How much do you use to thin it? I read on their site you have to use their thinner. Is that true? What about any grease or large rust particles? It seems to be a viable option after I get it repaired, just want to know more before I commit to it.
I've been looking into this lately and have now heard a couple of people mention fluid film. I just bought my 1st ever can of fluid film a couple months ago, and I'm really impressed with the stuff! Smells like juicy fruit gum too! If this stuff works for treating under the truck, then I might have to pick up a big can of it, and look for a cheap sprayer.
When you guys spray this stuff under the truck, is it on jackstands, or up on a lift?
I've been looking into this lately and have now heard a couple of people mention fluid film. I just bought my 1st ever can of fluid film a couple months ago, and I'm really impressed with the stuff! Smells like juicy fruit gum too! If this stuff works for treating under the truck, then I might have to pick up a big can of it, and look for a cheap sprayer.
When you guys spray this stuff under the truck, is it on jackstands, or up on a lift?
I use recycled motor oil from my oil changes....been doing it for years. My undercarriage came with a fair bit of rust when I bought used back in 2004. But it hasn't progressed much....and I attribute that to the oil. I live in the salt belt, and many folks around here are running 2005- 2008 trucks that already have body rust!
I've been using this method for years, pay nothing to do it, and will never look back!
I know some of you have been following my post about frame rot, (Sorry I didn't post pics).
Now that Toyota has declined any help, I have decided to get the frame repaired. Once it's done I plan on oiling the inside of the frame using a pressure sprayer. My question is; does anyone know of an oil that is thin enough to spray and stay on the metal? Preferably it is as harmless to the environment as possible.
nope, that's good stuff, we use it to coat all of our tooling before we ship it across the ocean in a giant freighter, alot of it is high precision uncoated steel the size of small buildings, and after a few months at sea most of the surfaces are a-ok......wiping it off is a pita though as it's pretty thick and forms a wax like layer over the surface where you sprayed......keep in mind there's lps1 lps 2 lps 3 ect it gets thicker and more wax like the higher the number
fightman mentioned the old farmers trick and that works as well, people have been using recycled motor oil since the 30's to coat the bottom of their rides while frowned upon in liberal states i could gaf less personally. it works it's cheap and is a good excuse to do an oil change before winter kicks in.
the fluid film is also good, over on my VW forum alot of people use that and suggest using it for their 50 year sheet metal, so it can't be all that bad, i consider alot of those guys to be guru's on rust prevention and maintenance
since they deal with it basically everyday of their lives....
personally though, i don't use anything, we don't have severe rusting problems here like the east coast and midwest guys and having to wipe the crap off or getting it all over me when working on the truck is a bother so i just forgo it altogether and treat each rust patch as it shows up with some por-15 as per directions....
I use recycled motor oil from my oil changes....been doing it for years. My undercarriage came with a fair bit of rust when I bought used back in 2004. But it hasn't progressed much....and I attribute that to the oil. I live in the salt belt, and many folks around here are running 2005- 2008 trucks that already have body rust!
I've been using this method for years, pay nothing to do it, and will never look back!
So I've read a few people use old engine oil for rust proofing. Do you just put the engine oil in a sprayer and go at it? How do you get inside the frame? Could someone please describe the process in a bit more detail.
My truck is from New Jersey and it didn't help that its probably backed a few boats in the ocean so the rear axle is pretty rusty. I used some Fertan Rust Converter on a part of the axle a few months back to see how it would do and it did very well. I'm gonna go and take my time with it this time and get the whole rear axle.
The thing is my frame is in pretty good condition somehow (I dont see how only the rear axle is that bad but it is what it is) so I dont think it's worth using the rust converter on the frame. It looks like using engine oil is the better option.
I wouldn't use used motor oil, maybe new, supposedly it can contain acids and other corrosive materials that may effect the factory frame paint, and the corrosive residuals of the contaminated oil are left behind once the oil wears off. I use new ATF III, it's cheap by the bucket and works well, sprays well, but needs to be applied bi-annually, as a bonus the same stuff can go in the tranny, and all petroleum base fluids should not get on any rubber including mounts, bushings, door seals ect,. Lots of oil sprayer guns available with wands and multi directional tips to go inside the frame and inner fenders. I used air brake tubing to extend the wands and have better control inside the frame. Truck looks like new underneath except some rust on the frame welds that was there 8 years ago when I got it, we see liquid calcium chloride and rock salt 7 months a year, but I do wash the underside of the truck weekly and try to avoid messy slushy driving and bring it into the shop to dry out every month or so.
So I've read a few people use old engine oil for rust proofing. Do you just put the engine oil in a sprayer and go at it? How do you get inside the frame? Could someone please describe the process in a bit more detail.
My truck is from New Jersey and it didn't help that its probably backed a few boats in the ocean so the rear axle is pretty rusty. I used some Fertan Rust Converter on a part of the axle a few months back to see how it would do and it did very well. I'm gonna go and take my time with it this time and get the whole rear axle.
The thing is my frame is in pretty good condition somehow (I dont see how only the rear axle is that bad but it is what it is) so I dont think it's worth using the rust converter on the frame. It looks like using engine oil is the better option.
I have the same rust issue on my rear axle and most of the E-coat has flaked off. The rest of the frame has some superficial spots, but nothing that concerns me. I just spray the rear pumpkin once and awhile with fluid film. Also I’ve had it in Oregon the last 4 years and not to concerned being it doesn’t see salt anymore.
The rear axle gets very warm when driving especially the diff. So in the winter in salt belt states the slushy sodium water molecules speed up and rust out the metal quicker. That’s why its common to find rust holes on the frame near the muffler.
The frame itself is made of a thicker C and a plate welded in to make it a box. The inner rails are thinner then the outer C.
So the inner rail almost always rots out first and the areas where the frame gets warmer will naturally rot out faster like the other member explained.
I have currently have a photo of a rear passenger area cut out on my build thread in the area of the LCA bracket. This particular frame was just starting to rust. I had scale in the inner bottom of the thinker C and the bottom of the frame. This scale builds up and rots through as to why these brackets rot off. Plus they are only welded on 3 inch or so welds on the inner frame well.
So cleaning the inside of your frame and coating it with rust inhibiting solutions is imperative in the rust belt. If you would like your frame to last a long time.
I have a LR Disco 1 with factory Waxoyl.
NE, rust belt. Dedicated snow vehicle.
NO RUST except on exhaust components and a few bolts. But the frame has ZERO rust. (Body is aluminum so no rust)
I used the NO DRIP stuff in the video below on a Taco, but it really is filthy to work under the vehicle again. But it works well.
I used Fluid Film. IT SUCKS. Flat out. Anyone who says otherwise has too much time on their hands to keep re-coating.
POR 15 which everyone loves is so-so.
Too much of a PITA to use versus other products that can be sprayed, and do not wash off and are "self-healing"
WoolWax is decent, but washed off.
I now have some Cosmoline Amber to try on my next rig when she gets off the ship.
I basically did this test in the video below around 2014.
I am not a YT'er and don't take photos, but I like to put things to the test.
It is just my nature.
I went overboard and stuck the jig in a Rubbermaid garbage can with water, and a few shovels full of rock salt and left it there for months.
Results for me were pretty much spot on with this kid, except I did not pressure wash.
Let the :flame:flame war:flame: begin because I spoke out against some products that others swear by.
I will buy stuff that needs no be reapplied more than once in a few years.
Sorry, I don't have the time to waste repeating steps. I just test and then apply what works.
I will be rattle canning the first and second coats of Cosmoline AS SOON AS I get the 4R. Then, I when I get the time, I will use a HVLP or something to do a 3rd and final coat.
Boeshield is garbage.
I tried BS on my 02 4R after a mod at Yotatech was always touting it since he worked on and off at Boeing.
I also tried the LPS stuff in two different flavors, but was not impressed by it.
PS, when I finally get my 4R, and the audio system goes in, you will see the extent to which I go to not have to mess with things ever again.
I want to do the job, and do it ONCE, and be happy, and not leave room to question even myself.
Valid point as FF does wash off as I stated for quite sometime. I am curious how your cosmoline holds up. Por 15 is paint. I have yet to find anything better though in doors and rockers or inside sealed frames then Fluid film as for its creeping around abs coating feature. Ff will not penetrate rust and it's never supposed to. It's a covering nothing more
I tried transmission fluid etc and it will not creep around like FF. So please let us know how your Cosmoline holds up. As I am curious for a solution that works best in the well wheels that wont power wash off.
I am also curious how beeswax will hold up. I haven't tried it yet but seriously thinking about as it goes on as liquid then turns to a solid so it wont creep but my not wash off.
So I am looking for a solution for the fender wheels at this point.
