OME Lift, REQUIRES UCAs or Not?

CRYA

CRYA

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For those that checked out the ARB build thread on Expedition Portal, the ARB rep states flat out that UCAs are not needed with the OME 3" lift. In my mind there's a big difference between required and "recommended". I've been contemplating the OME lift for various reasons and just thought maybe someone could interpret the results of ARB's alignment sheet found here:
ARB 4Runner Build - Page 19

My brain doesn't have room to learn geometry and I know there's lots of smart people here. So, just curious if OME can be run without UCAs and still get enough alignment.

Anyone running OME without UCAs having issues?
 
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I don't have an answer to your specific question. But do notice that there are no caster measurements on that alignment sheet (UCA's would give more caster adjustment). I see that as a red flag.

If it were my truck I'd at least go with the light racing UCA's for the peace of mind and knowing you aren't cutting any corners. I am sure other will disagree, so take my $0.02 for what it is worth.
 
You can get somewhat back into alignment with a 3" lift, but the replacement UCA's certainly take out some of the "well, it's almost ok" and "it's driveable" and put it more into specs so you can actually enjoy driving it. I put on a toytech 3" lift and 285's, and my mechanic (and two others @ the shop) could only get it close. It's still out of specs, but they placed it so that it wouldn't wear the tires out until the UCA's arrive.
just my 0.02
 
I'm in teh same boat as you. I was the one asking the questions about the UCA's in the ARB thread.... still haven't decided if i should just order the OME stuff or get the UCA's as well. the ARB guy seems adamant that they aren't needed...
 
I am in agreement in that they aren't completely necessary when going with a 3" or less lift, but the get everything in spec really easy. I have modified a couple of cars, usually going with the cheaper route to save money and have been unhappy with the results. This time I said I was going to do it right, no matter what the cost, hence the OW/Radflo 2.5 kit and Light Racing UCAs.
 
Like Mike, I'm running OW suspension rather than OME and I'm of the opinion that ANY 5th gen 4Runner would benefit from aftermarket UCA's if you foresee ANY suspension upgrades or wheel/tire upgrades during the life of your 4Runner ownership. A mild lift, wider wheels or different-than-stock wheel offset, larger tires, etc.; each will slightly alter tire clearances in the wheel well. Do a number of upgrades and the tire clearance issues start to compound on each other and next thing you know, you'll be rubbing somewhere, either on the bodywork or on the OEM UCA itself.

A large range of caster adjustment (not possible with OEM UCA's/LCA's) allows you to play with front wheel placement in the wheel well. Aftermarket UCA's also typically offer more clearance to the sidewalls of your front tires.

I also spoke to ARBUSA about the necessity of UCA's with their OME suspension kits and received the same answer .. not needed. And ARB's new 4Runner project truck didn't get aftermarket UCA's nor did it get rock sliders. Why? Because ARB doesn't offer UCA's or rock sliders in their product line.

Unless you never plan to upgrade anything on your 4Runner, you'll not regret investing in better UCA's.
 
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GET THE UCAs

i have the OME 884 springs .. it's a big lift on the front maybe 3.5 to 4 with bilstien shocks set at lowest

even tho my first alignment guy is a dumb ass and didn't know how to properly adjust caster.. i would have had ~1.6 caster max on stock adjustments

and positive camber.. have you see what positive camber looks like on a 5th gen from the front? it looks re****ed and drives like crap..

the lack of caster also meant lack of negative camber in a turn.. and bump steer up the ass.. in a high speed turn i felt the shaking in my steering wheel like tires were out of balace..

on the freeway.. forget it.. constantly correcting just to stay in the middle of my lane because no caster meant wheels don't want to self center

anyways.. after getting the LR UCA.. and a proper alignment guy.. now have -0.5 camber easy.. and 4.3 caster!

it's a night and day difference.. car tracks straight on freeway with no corrections from me just to go straight.. turns good and self centers perfectly out of a turn.. no bump steer.. and no re****ed looking positive camber..

if you look at ARB's dealer print out.. they have .6 positive camber.. and no caster spec at all.. if that doesn't mean they need UCA then i'm not sure what does.. they're spending a shiet load on that truck and can't put in UCA?? really????

anyways thanks to those who suggested UCA to as the right way to fix my alignment bs last week
 
Thanks this is the kind of feedback I'm looking for. I think the most interesting point made is that since ARB doesn't sell UCAs, they don't say their lift "needs" UCAs. Just seems a little strange that ARB is out there telling people the lift doesn't need it. I see a lot of people being pissed when they can't achieve alignment with their equipment installed.
 
pawzitiv said:
I also spoke to ARBUSA about the necessity of UCA's with their OME suspension kits and received the same answer .. not needed. And ARB's new 4Runner project truck didn't get aftermarket UCA's nor did it get rock sliders. Why? Because ARB doesn't offer UCA's or rock sliders in their product line.
Click to expand...

Exactly. When I ordered my 2.0 kit from Overland, Andries suggested I buy the Light Racing UCAs even though they didn't carry them. The fact OW was recommending something they weren't making any money off of said to me that it was something I really should get.
 
Intruder said:
Exactly. When I ordered my 2.0 kit from Overland, Andries suggested I buy the Light Racing UCAs even though they didn't carry them. The fact OW was recommending something they weren't making any money off of said to me that it was something I really should get.
Click to expand...

When he installed my lift, first non-kdss he had done, he was impressed how easy they went on.
 
OK, now Im fairly confused. I have the Toytec 3/2 lift about to be installed. Its just front spacers and rear coils onto a 2WD 2010. Ive read so much about the +4 caster needed for lifts/wheel-tire upgrades and such and now wonder if new UCA's are needed for what I plan on doing as well. It seems that new UCA's are the vote for the beefier lifts on 4WD's but what about this less-beefier on a 2WD. Besides the obvious difference between 2WD and 4WD I just wonder about the not-so-obvious differences when it comes to the lift.
 
sorry to bring this old thread back up. My question is can one easily put on the UCA's after the lift is on? other than unbolting the ball joint and UCA bolts, do i have to mess with disconnecting KDSS and take out the strut do replace the UCA?
Basically i want to install my OME lift and see what kinda alignment i get and if its awful i'm wanna get the Camburg arms with the moog ball joint.
thanks for any input
 
KTMRIDER said:
sorry to bring this old thread back up. My question is can one easily put on the UCA's after the lift is on? other than unbolting the ball joint and UCA bolts, do i have to mess with disconnecting KDSS and take out the strut do replace the UCA?
Basically i want to install my OME lift and see what kinda alignment i get and if its awful i'm wanna get the Camburg arms with the moog ball joint.
thanks for any input
Click to expand...

Check my build thread. I have this lift and wish I had UCAs. Going to get them on pretty soon.
 
KTMRIDER said:
sorry to bring this old thread back up. My question is can one easily put on the UCA's after the lift is on? other than unbolting the ball joint and UCA bolts, do i have to mess with disconnecting KDSS and take out the strut do replace the UCA?
Basically i want to install my OME lift and see what kinda alignment i get and if its awful i'm wanna get the Camburg arms with the moog ball joint.
thanks for any input
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I did and had absolutely no problems installing the UCA after I completely finished the lift install and drove on it first. One thing though...you might want to just skip straight to installing the new UCA if you plan to have any decent amount of lift 2"+ while still trying to pull close to +4 caster. It seems like most of the guys here (including me) couldn't get past bare minimum caster after the lift. So why pay for an alignment twice :)
 
I just finished installing OME 884's front, toytec springs back, with Bilstein shocks all around. Had it aligned, and most I could get out of alignment was 1.7 caster on left, 1.9 on right. 1.9 is minimum spec. Drove fine after alignment, but I knew I would never be satisfied with "good enough" on a $35k vehicle, so bought LR UCAs and installed last weekend. Getting aligned this weekend, but even before alignment I can tell you it feels WAY more stable and tracks better at highway speeds. Tried to go cheap at first, and save $400, but should have known better. IMHO, the UCA's are a mandatory part of lift. ..
 
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