Only KDSS w/lift need apply

Nice dude! It pays to poke around. I would have never guessed that pulling the harness would give the opposite result as pulling the fuse.
 
The way I see it, if the valves are open all the time there's less pressure on the cylinder seals, but it doesn't ride anything like taking the sway bars off, you still have the balance of pressure going around corners, it just feels like a softer ride now.

We can worry ourselves all day about what may or may not happen, or we can just go out and live, I know why Toyota took away the great turning radius 4runners used to have, they're worried about rollovers, if I could fix that next..... But I've worked with not gonna gmsay car manufacturers and they don't always get it right for the end user, it's for the %of total buyers, the 1%ers will customize it the way they want.
 
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The way I see it, if the valves are open all the time there's less pressure on the cylinder seals, but it doesn't ride anything like taking the sway bars off, you still have the balance of pressure going around corners, it just feels like a softer ride now.
paging [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION]... isn't hydraulics, like, your thing?
 
After a couple hundred miles 60/40% on/offroad. I can say I'm absolutely pleased (like teenager giggles) at how the rig handles in both types of driving! Traction systems work, crawl control, atrac, diff lock, cruise, nothing is in limp mode, just the kdss light on the bottom right side of the dash when unplugged. My next move is to install a switch so the wifey can keep it in hwy mode on the street.
 
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After a couple hundred miles 60/40% on/offroad. I can say I'm absolutely pleased (like teenager giggles) at how the rig handles in both types of driving! Traction systems work, crawl control, atrac, diff lock, cruise, nothing is in limp mode, just the kdss light on the bottom right side of the dash when unplugged. My next move is to install a switch so the wifey can keep it in hwy mode on the street.

This is exactly what I wanted to hear! Thanks for doing all the testing.

Let us know how the switch works out, this will be my next mod.
 
After a couple hundred miles 60/40% on/offroad. I can say I'm absolutely pleased (like teenager giggles) at how the rig handles in both types of driving! Traction systems work, crawl control, atrac, diff lock, cruise, nothing is in limp mode, just the kdss light on the bottom right side of the dash when unplugged. My next move is to install a switch so the wifey can keep it in hwy mode on the street.

So did you ever install a switch? And have you aired down and taken it out on washboard to see if there's a difference from before?
 
After a couple hundred miles 60/40% on/offroad. I can say I'm absolutely pleased (like teenager giggles) at how the rig handles in both types of driving! Traction systems work, crawl control, atrac, diff lock, cruise, nothing is in limp mode, just the kdss light on the bottom right side of the dash when unplugged. My next move is to install a switch so the wifey can keep it in hwy mode on the street.

This is exactly what I wanted to hear! Thanks for doing all the testing.

Let us know how the switch works out, this will be my next mod.

So did you ever install a switch? And have you aired down and taken it out on washboard to see if there's a difference from before?
:bump2:
 
I just tried this out , went one way down a particularly rough road with it plugged in then stopped unplugged and went back, it's definitely a smoother ride and well worth figuring out the switch if you drive on bad roads like this.

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*bump*

Anyone ever install the KDSS switch mod described in the above thread?

Any luck [MENTION=90627]Desert36[/MENTION]?
 
KDSS is great when driving on winding roads or on a smooth, freshly paved road.
When driving on a bumpy back road, pot holed city street or over washboards like OP mentioned, KDSS drives me crazy...
It would be ideal if Toyota had installed a bypass switch, or if KDSS would only be activated in a particular drive mode.



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OPs last post in this forum was 8 months back on this very thread after reporting results of disabling KDSS...let the speculation begin on how things ended up for him
Remember the OP when you look at the night sky...




In other news, I ragert KDSS because I want an LT overlandish wide track build and all I can do to get it is buy an SR5 base at this point.
 
Im wondering if he ever installed a switch. I am getting ready to pull the trigger on an Icon stage 7 for my KDSS equipped rig, and I think this would be awesome to do.
 
Remember the OP when you look at the night sky...

In other news, I ragert KDSS because I want an LT overlandish wide track build and all I can do to get it is buy an SR5 base at this point.

Sure replying to months old post but hey...I bet a creative gent such as yourself could look at relocating the KDSS piston mounts or something similar. In theory dropping the pistons to correct the swaybars geometry should fix any issues, right? I mean unless of course you were looking at full disconnects or running swayless.

Im wondering if he ever installed a switch. I am getting ready to pull the trigger on an Icon stage 7 for my KDSS equipped rig, and I think this would be awesome to do.

Switch? Not sure a switch would do anything for KDSS. What are you hoping to achieve with a switch?
 
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Switch? Not sure a switch would do anything for KDSS. What are you hoping to achieve with a switch?

if you read through the posts, the OP experimented with pulling the KDSS plug under the driver's side (where the KDSS system is) and said it "disabled" it and allowed the suspension to droop well past the 12mph cutoff. He stated that he was looking at adding a switch to do the same thing (not having to pull the plug outside to disable it while offroading). was just wondering if he was able to do that
 
Had you quoted I would have certainly spent the time to go back and read up, since you didn't I asked :)

I see, makes sense. I am curious how the ECU handled the disconnect, ie if it threw a CEL or not. I also wonder if the default position of the solenoids is open or close? or do they simply stay where they were at time of disconnect.

Ahh this post is what you were referring too (clears up all kinds of questions):
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/220221-only-kdss-w-lift-need-apply-3.html#post2372920

Also if you [MENTION=90627]Desert36[/MENTION] he should get a notification and maybe respond?
 
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to further continue the discussion in a thread where the OP is MIA, THIS IS SWEET. All you guys running ICONS especially would benefit as ICON runs digressive valving so it'll be smoother the faster you go. Plus you guys seem to crank the shit outta the preload lmao

Once i get Kings i'm gonna pull the fuse and see how it does.

Had you quoted I would have certainly spent the time to go back and read up, since you didn't I asked :)

I see, makes sense. I am curious how the ECU handled the disconnect, ie if it threw a CEL or not. I also wonder if the default position of the solenoids is open or close? or do they simply stay where they were at time of disconnect.

Ahh this post is what you were referring too (clears up all kinds of questions):
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/220221-only-kdss-w-lift-need-apply-3.html#post2372920

Also if you [MENTION=90627]Desert36[/MENTION] he should get a notification and maybe respond?

it makes more sense to just read the thread instead of replying to only one post...cant blame him. lol
 

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