Opinions on 2 different 4runners

Hey guys, hope that everyone is well. Last month I sold my '01 SR5 and immediately regretted it. I've looked at a few 4th gens, which I like for the extra size and more powerful engine, but the reality is that a nice one is still financially out of reach at this time. I've gone back to searching out a 3rd gen again. I didn't realize how nice my old one was until I started looking at the piles of rusted/neglected crap that the local wholesalers/curbside "dealers", posing as owners, are trying to sell at ridiculous prices.

Today I went to look at a '97 limited with a bad motor. We got the thing to start, and the motor is indeed bad. The rods sound like they're ready to blow out of the side of the block at any second. The body has less rust than the '01 that I sold and the frame is probably better, (although the one that I sold was by no means a rust bucket), no rust had eaten through the body panels or the frame, just lots of scaling rust. One of the big pluses- 4.30 R/P w/ functional elocker.

As I was looking, scratching me arse and thinking ( in that order ), the guy shows me a '99 SR5 base model that he's also selling. He's a dealer, makes it known up front. Not hiding anything, so at least I found someone who will at least admit to being a licensed dealer/wholesaler.

The '99 runs/drives but has bigger rust issues, inner rockers are toast and the rear upper wheel wells are bubbly. I test drove the '99, made notes and told the seller that I wanted to think it over. No pressure from him, which I appreciated.

Here's a quick break down of pros/cons on both.

'97 Limited:
Pros:
  1. minimal chassis/body rust
  2. functional e-locker
  3. multi-mode 4wd system ( I like the ability of having an AWD option)
  4. newer cat back exhaust system
  5. newer CV shafts

Cons:


  1. needs engine
  2. needs tires
  3. rear heater bypassed
  4. needs radiator
  5. leaky rear axle seals
  6. front leather seats not in the best condition
  7. no key fobs
  8. smaller "hidden" storage area in the rear.
  9. hack job done on a trans bypass for an external cooler. ( I saw this and checked for strawberry milkshake, no evidence of contamination)
  10. sun roof ( don't like them, never use them. It's just a hole in the roof waiting to leak and cause misery)
  11. salvage title. more work to get through MD state inspection, but doable. The vehicle was an abandoned salvage.



I'd do LBJ's just because there's no way of knowing if/when they've ever been done


'99 SR% base model
Pros
  1. motor runs well, trans shifts well
  2. base 4wd system ( could be a con- depends on what you want)
  3. newer style dash layout ( I personally like this style better)
  4. good condition cloth interior
  5. no sun roof
  6. no fender flares
  7. no signs of leaky rear axle seals

Cons


  1. needs V/C gaskets
  2. needs t/belt service since there's no way of knowing when/if it's been done
  3. rotted out inner rocker panels, bubbles on outer edges of outer rockers
  4. bubbles on rear wheel wells at top, not rotted through yet
  5. rear heater bypassed
  6. heavy scaling on rear of frame
  7. rear diffy has heavy scaling
  8. rotted rear brake backing plates
  9. no service history
  10. no key fobs
  11. clean title
  12. larger "hidden" storage area in rear

I'd also do LBJ's on this one, just to be sure it's fresh and safe.

pros and cons almost equal out ( in my mind ) Mileages are very similar. I was able to drive one so I have an idea of what I could be getting myself into. The other is a crap shoot, I was able to move it back and forth in a field, I know that the elocker works and the trans shifts quietly between R and D. 2wd/AWD button works.

The '97 can be mine for $1K. The '99 will cost $2700. Giving the amount of work each one needs, I feel that the '97 can be up and driving for the cost of the '99 before any repairs are done to the '99. Both need some love. Im leaning towards the '97 because I think that I can get it driving for less money which would leave me room to do some basic mods.

My end goal is to have an overland/base camp vehicle. I'm ok with pulling the rear carpet and having the area bed lined, for utilitarian purposes.

Please feel free to offer opinions. Maybe I'm missing something that would sway my opinion to one over the other. The elocker wouldn't be the main reason I'd go with the '97, just to get that out of the way.
 
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Personally I would take neither and keep looking. Unless you are really looking for a project. Is that as good as it gets in your area? Too bad. Good luck.
 
I'd probably go with the 97' just because it has less rust, especially if you're pretty certain you could have less money into it to get it up and running. Either that, or I'd just hold off until you can find a better deal.

I'm not sure what the market is like where you're at, but here in Ohio it's pretty rough. Anything remotely clean or lifted is $4k and up, but usually they still have rust issues in one form or another. Or they're "cheap" ($1k-$3k) and just completely rusted out. I sold my daily driver 98' with a 3in lift and very clean frame, among other things, for $4200 at the beginning of the year (Which was way less than what I had into it). But like you, I missed it lol, so I've been looking for another one ever since, and just this past month I picked up a 2002 sport edition with 173k miles and no rust (besides some very light surface rust on the frame) for $4500. And it really doesn't need much at all to be a good reliable daily. I am taking it with me when I start a co-op out of state, though, so I'm unfortunately dumping quite a bit into it just to make sure I won't have any issues while I'm gone.

But yeah I mean really I'd go with less rust and lower cost overall, or just hold off for another one.
 
The 97 will not have optional AWD mode. Center diff lock wasn't offered then.

Thanks for the feed back. This one clearly had the '4WD' button on the side of the t-case shift lever, so is that just 2wd/4H lock ? The t-case shift pattern is just a straight line, 4H-N-4L, not the "J" pattern.

Kanoe- yup, things are bad around here. Trucks that haven't passed a legitimate state inspection and will require $1000's in repairs are still going for $4K and up. The first snowflakes hit the ground today, prices on 4x4's just went up 45% over night. It's sad, in all honesty.


Maybe I'm better off just driving the AWD CR-V all winter again. :(
 
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Thanks for the feed back. This one clearly had the '4WD' button on the side of the t-case shift lever, so is that just 2wd/4H lock ? The t-case shift pattern is just a straight line, 4H-N-4L, not the "J" pattern.

Kanoe- yup, things are bad around here. Trucks that haven't passed a legitimate state inspection and will require $1000's in repairs are still going for $4K and up. The first snowflakes hit the ground today, prices on 4x4's just went up 45% over night. It's sad, in all honesty.


Maybe I'm better off just driving the AWD CR-V all winter again. :(

Correct. My 96 Ltd is the same. There is no center diff on ours until 99 if you got the Limited, we just have a transfer case that is always locked.
 
Thanks, glad that you guys set me straight on that one. I've been doing some number crunching on paper, I'd be close to the same costs to get either one on the road. The '97 would at least allow me to run a 'historic' tag on it in MD, being that it's 20 years old. I just couldn't DD it which is fine.

Less rust = a longer useful life, but I wouldn't know how well it actually runs until I'd get the engine swapped. Since I'd be working outside, an engine swap isn't exactly a job that I'd look forward to but I want to have something together enough to start using it in the spring so I'll have to be cold a bit, lol.
 
I did an engine swap on mine when I got it and I knew that it would need to be done. I got pretty lucky and got my engine for $600 from a junkyard near me and it was clean inside.

If you go that route, just make sure you replace all the seals while its out as that will make life much easier. Namely the rear main, oil pan reseal, timing belt/water pump, valve covers with new cam plugs and crank seal, and lower/upper intake manifold gaskets.
 
Thanks, I've been looking at the JDM replacement engines. The dealers say that they all have less than 55K on them, I'm just not so convinced about that claim. Lots to think about. I know that if I buy this cheap, then throw labor/money at it at least I'll know what I have vs. taking a chance and over paying for something that will need attention anyway.
 
Any additional bits of wisdom to pass along with regards to doing the engine swap? Did you separate engine trans or pull them as a unit?
 
I just pulled the engine by itself. Something to consider is to replace the starter or rebuild the current one while the engine is out. Makes life so much easier with all the extra room. Also it goes without saying, but replace the exhaust donut gaskets that you seperate.
 
Hey guys, hope that everyone is well. Last month I sold my '01 SR5 and immediately regretted it. I've looked at a few 4th gens, which I like for the extra size and more powerful engine, but the reality is that a nice one is still financially out of reach at this time. I've gone back to searching out a 3rd gen again. I didn't realize how nice my old one was until I started looking at the piles of rusted/neglected crap that the local wholesalers/curbside "dealers", posing as owners, are trying to sell at ridiculous prices.........

2009 Cons
  1. needs V/C gaskets
  2. needs t/belt service since there's no way of knowing when/if it's been done
  3. rotted out inner rocker panels, bubbles on outer edges of outer rockers
  4. bubbles on rear wheel wells at top, not rotted through yet
  5. rear heater bypassed
  6. heavy scaling on rear of frame
  7. rear diffy has heavy scaling
  8. rotted rear brake backing plates
    ................


  1. The '99 SR5, will cost $2700.
    - this is just bad for the near future, and a potential money pit / with a low break even
    - frame rust & rocker panel rot...run / run / run

    PS - The '97 can be mine for $1K....salvage title hurts, resale value.

    2ndhandyotaman - finding a good Gen3 takes much patience, more so in the areas closer to/in the Northern rust belts...(using winter road salt).
    - selling your 2001 was mistake #1...a weak moment, in time
    - considering buying junk from a nice wholesaler, is mistake #2
    ^^ More PATIENCE grasshopper !! But if you insist on buying one, the cheap '97 with the bad motor, is the wiser choice.

    Photo is a 2005 Jimmy rear quarter bottom, with an innocent little rust spot.
    - after paint bubbles removed...holes started to break through, metal got thin like tin foil (rusted out from back side, initially)
    - just eats up time, to fix properly & takes auto body & weld equipment...and its only one small rust spot / being rebuilt with 19 gauge metal
    - essential the patch panel repair, is now 100% water tight / and Mar-Glass Fibre-Fill Bondo is not a water proof solution, rather a waste of time
    - GMC 4x4 being cleaned up, for a flip / sold last week BTW
    - now that I got my 2000 T4R SR5 (a low mileage, one senior owner, original paint, rust free find)
 

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...looking at the piles of rusted/neglected crap that the local wholesalers/curbside "dealers", posing as owners, are trying to sell at ridiculous prices.
Ain't that the truth, rust free body (just don't mind the scaling frame). I'd take the 1997. One here was a 1998 for $6,300, I pushed in on the frame near a rust spot and the frame crumble through right under the driver, and this was at the Toyota dealer, but suppose they figure someone is just going to but it for a winter beater and it may be fine for a winter or 2. Nice to plan on having customers with big financial resources and little attention to detail.

Some other's I looked at, 1998, rust, 2 -2003, rust free body advertised, scaling frames, and online various others but always from the rust belt and no pictures of the underside.

I am waiting this one out another for a day when I feel wealthy, 2001 with claim of "Virtually rust free" for $3,700 or best offer from a private party. Just know I am going to see the underside and wonder why I wasted the trip, I wouldn't mind paying up if is as described, but I'm sure other deficiencies would command a lower offer.

Also like the wait till spring, budget may increase and more project time in the warmer months of summer.
 
...I am waiting this one out another for a day when I feel wealthy, 2001 with claim of "Virtually rust free" for $3,700 or best offer from a private party. Just know I am going to see the underside and wonder why I wasted the trip, I wouldn't mind paying up if is as described, but I'm sure other deficiencies would command a lower offer..

This. Exactly why I won't even go look at anything beyond a 20 mile radius without the "seller" providing under body/frame pics. CL is so over bloated with scammers/phishers I almost cringe at even clicking on any ads anymore. Its not just the 'too-good-to-be-true' ads anymore that you know are total BS. Some of the ads have multiple pics and a local phone number. Sure enough, within 20 minutes of calling the number in the ad, my phone explodes with telemarketers trying to sell me anything under the sun.

There's got to be a better way of looking for a car being sold by a legitimate private party.
 

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