Opt7 leds

[alangranvue]

After purchasing the hood mounts, I ordered the OPT7 "cree" leds. There are 6 leds in each housing. I wanted to get the Rigid Dually D2's but I figured for $80 I might as well try these opt7's. Well to sum it up, these are decent bright lights that seem to be well made. However, they are not what I am going after. It looks like I am going to be putting these on my gator UTV and buying dually d2's to replace these on my truck. Here are some pictures below. The lights are very bright when looking at them however they dont shine much past low lights (if they shine that far). I've got them angled out for now so they will scan further off the road that my low lights will. I will take more pictures in the light but it was dark after I finished the install.

 

[alangranvue]

My impatience got the best of me. I went ahead and ordered the Rigid D2's this morning.

 

[alangranvue]

Here is a picture of them attached. Rigid D2's will be here tomorrow so I will be swapping them out this weekend.

 

[crackiswack]

Good to see you've seen the light on these types of ebay quality light bars. A comparison with the Rigid D2s would be great

 

[alangranvue]

Good to see you've seen the light on these types of ebay quality light bars. A comparison with the Rigid D2s would be great

I am hoping I can get some decent pictures out of my phone to compare. When I went to order some I figured I would try the Opt7's and if I wasn't happy with them I would order the d2s and just throw these opt7's on my gator for now.

 

[crackiswack]

I am hoping I can get some decent pictures out of my phone to compare. When I went to order some I figured I would try the Opt7's and if I wasn't happy with them I would order the d2s and just throw these opt7's on my gator for now.

If you could use a camera with manual settings that would be even better, camera phones have a tendency to change the exposure levels

 

[alangranvue]

If you could use a camera with manual settings that would be even better, camera phones have a tendency to change the exposure levels

I've got a canon rebel and I can give it a shot that way. I will try and take quite a few this afternoon when I install.

 

[alangranvue]

I had to rush install the Rigid D2's yesterday so I didn't get time to take comparison pictures. I can tell you this, the D2's are literally 10 times brighter (at least) as the OPT7's were. They are much better made. Also when I went to remove the OPT7's yesterday I saw they had a lot of condensation built up in them. I highly do not recommend them.. The Rigid D2's were totally worth it.

 

[470SNC]

China CREE led bars are good and bad, the worst ones condensate right away. My China CREE 20" LED bar I had on my FJ lasted 5 years with no condensation and it was actually brighter than a Rigid 20" (did a side by side comparision) and it will be going back on my Lexus GX build, it's hit or miss, there are good quality ones out there but they're hard to know from buying it online.

 

[mctizzo]

I'm doing pretty much the same thing you are..
Opt 7 bar--14IN
Opt 7 wiring loom
Air on Board(AOB) switch

My question is the opt 7 has 3 leads going into it, and the AOB switch has 4 leads.

How do the leads(wires) match up?
The op7 has a black blue and white I believe.
the AOB has
Black-Chassis Earth,
Blue -Dash parking,
green-ignition on
Red--Relay

Any help would be awesome!

 

[borfoo3]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] [MENTION=104320]jmarthsr[/MENTION] How are your 8" & 14" OPT7s holding up so far? Been looking them up and interested in a 32" bar with harness (haven't decided on either OEM switch or aftermarket) to go behind my grille..

Any issues with them? condensation or flickering of any sorts?

 

[Mmikey]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] [MENTION=104320]jmarthsr[/MENTION] How are your 8" & 14" OPT7s holding up so far? Been looking them up and interested in a 32" bar with harness (haven't decided on either OEM switch or aftermarket) to go behind my grille..

Any issues with them? condensation or flickering of any sorts?

I have been running the 22" OPT7 behind the grill for about a year without condensation or flickering. I initially tried to fit a 32", but there is an air dam behind the grill (highlighted in red) that would have to be cut to get it to fit. I went with the 22" so I can fit it without cutting.

 

[borfoo3]

I have been running the 22" OPT7 behind the grill for about a year without condensation or flickering. I initially tried to fit a 32", but there is an air dam behind the grill (highlighted in red) that would have to be cut to get it to fit. I went with the 22" so I can fit it without cutting.

ooh yeah I know what you mean.. So do you like/recommend the single 22" bar setup or a dual setup of some sorts (like 2x14") for a bit more output?

 

[Mmikey]

ooh yeah I know what you mean.. So do you like/recommend the single 22" bar setup or a dual setup of some sorts (like 2x14") for a bit more output?

For me, it's definitely bright enough at 22", but I have nothing to compare it with. It produces enough light that the reflection off of signs sometimes catches me off guard. Perhaps having a bigger or doubled up light bar might even be brighter, but I don't think you'll be hurting for more light with 22". Personally, I think the larger 32" light bar would look cooler, if you're willing to chop up the plastic. By the way, I ended up cutting off some of the plastic pieces in the grill at the center of the light bar.

 

[jmarthsr]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] [MENTION=104320]jmarthsr[/MENTION] How are your 8" & 14" OPT7s holding up so far? Been looking them up and interested in a 32" bar with harness (haven't decided on either OEM switch or aftermarket) to go behind my grille..

Any issues with them? condensation or flickering of any sorts?

I don't have them in yet as I have been out of the country for some time now. Hopefully will return in a couple of months and get it done.

 

[Cymon]

This wiring harness (above) is so well built! The relay is a 'standard' 12V spst sealed 30A unit. What I like about this is should the relay go bad, I can run into 'Auto-zone' on any day (even Sunday) and pick one up; no need to send it back to the company and wait for them to send another one back to me, it even came with a 30 amp 'In-line fuse' & holder!


[MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] was right... the intensity of the small (8 inch) lamp is incredible! I hope that someone looking for a 'Rigid LED' alternative will at least consider the 'OPT7 C2 series'. There built 100% in the USA, cost is about 1/3 that of the BIG names, come with FREE S&H, 50,000 hrs life span, 5 star reviews, GREAT C/S and a comparable limited warranty! Amazon.com: opt7 c2 led light bar

Cheers!

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION], as I was shuffling through all of the old posts and finding different ways to hook up my led to AOB switch I found this post with the wiring harness I plan on using. When you hooked it up did you install the 1 amp diode that is recommended on the AOB diagram between the relay and AOB/Slee switches or are you able to just attach this relay directly to the AOB/Slee switch? Is it not necessary with this type of relay? Please excuse my ignorance I just want to make sure I have all of the things I need to get it done the right way.

I don't want this to happen (Great Thread by the way!).
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/192198-switch-not-switch.html#post1960113

The relay in question...
http://www.amazon.com/OPT7-Offroad-Light-wiring-Harness/dp/B00K1NS0PS/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1P8RQJQ9FEK2STD6M751

 

[rigtec]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION], as I was shuffling through all of the old posts and finding different ways to hook up my led to AOB switch I found this post with the wiring harness I plan on using. When you hooked it up did you install the 1 amp diode that is recommended on the AOB diagram between the relay and AOB/Slee switches or are you able to just attach this relay directly to the AOB/Slee switch? Is it not necessary with this type of relay? Please excuse my ignorance I just want to make sure I have all of the things I need to get it done the right way.

Hi Cymon,

You won't need to use anti-feedback diode unless you plan to integrate this new LED device into a stock factory system such as your bright-lights, to prevent creating a 'Shunting (alternative) electrical path' for current to travel backwards through when not intended to and causing light bulbs to light up when they shouldn't.

I didn't need to use any diodes because all of my aftermarket lighting systems are on their own independent circuits. They all have their own switches (AOB, slee off-road...), they have their own fuses and are powered directly by the main battery, so no feedback issues!

I don't want this to happen (Great Thread by the way!).
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/192198-switch-not-switch.html#post1960113

And don't worry about that write-up "To switch or not switch", I didn't burn my main body ECU, but because I didn't know then what I know now I felt I had somehow destroyed my own truck's computer... Just kill the power when working in the dash on the electrical system, and of course, check your work against a reliable wiring diagram; which I didn't have at the time that I did mine!

The relay in question...
Amazon.com: OPT7 Offroad Light Bar wiring Harness Kit (4 Items), 380W - Single Connector: Automotive

Nothing unusual about OPT7's relay or harness parts; never gave me one oz of trouble... Sometimes when I get too board I'll build my own relay harnesses cuz parts are so cheap and readily available online... you have no worries,

rig Cheers!

 

[Cymon]

Hi Cymon,

You won't need to use anti-feedback diode unless you plan to integrate this new LED device into a stock factory system such as your bright-lights, to prevent creating a 'Shunting (alternative) electrical path' for current to travel backwards through when not intended to and causing light bulbs to light up when they shouldn't.

I didn't need to use any diodes because all of my aftermarket lighting systems are on their own independent circuits. They all have their own switches (AOB, slee off-road...), they have their own fuses and are powered directly by the main battery, so no feedback issues!



And don't worry about that write-up "To switch or not switch", I didn't burn my main body ECU, but because I didn't know then what I know now I felt I had somehow destroyed my own truck's computer... Just kill the power when working in the dash on the electrical system, and of course, check your work against a reliable wiring diagram; which I didn't have at the time that I did mine!



Nothing unusual about OPT7's relay or harness parts; never gave my one oz of trouble... Sometimes when I get too board I'll build my own relay harnesses cuz parts are so cheap and readily available online... you have no worries,

rig Cheers!

Thank you! Couldn't have asked for a better response! I'm not planning on integrating into any factory wiring, just straight plug and play (hopefully)

:cheers:

 

[rigtec]

Thank you! Couldn't have asked for a better response! I'm not planning on integrating into any factory wiring, just straight plug and play (hopefully)

:cheers:

Then you'll be just fine, Rgds!

 

[cheeser]

I have the same lights, harness, and switch.

Looks like I need to hack up the opt7 harness a bit by chopping off the switch that comes with it and then connecting the AOB switch. Will be looking for an unused plug under the dash for the gray wire connection to illuminate the switch.