Ordered black stone oil analysis

gamefreakgc said:
...The Owner's Manual you've got shows to only replace every 5,000 miles with dino oil. I'm not sure if synthetic was widely available in the late 90's, but it goes much longer. I'm over 10k miles on my synthetic right now but it's about due for a change, I run AMSOIL's high-performance oil since it's made for boosted engines and has a 15k mile change interval.
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Your oil might be good for 15k but is your filter going to still be efficient after that many miles? Or do you change out filters on your way to 15k?

Just seems to me that even if the oil is still functioning as intended and the additive pack has not been depleted at 10-15k miles — your oil is still going to be full of crap with everything from unburnt combustion particulates to abrasive wear material if the oil filter is mostly full or worse blocked and in bypass mode.

While it may be overkill, I'm now running full synthetic with a bigger D3 filter every 5k. Having clean oil and a new filter every 5k just makes me feel all warm & fuzzy inside. I'm poor but I don't mind spending $45 on my oil and filters each time even at the miles I drive which means an oil change every couple months or so.
 
Just a thought, but how are your rear heater lines looking? A small hole in one of those could be easily missed.
 
MStudt said:
Just a thought, but how are your rear heater lines looking? A small hole in one of those could be easily missed.
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rear heater line is by passed.

I just did cylinder compression test. (harbour freight tool) if i remember correctly, when we used my friends matco tool, it was 150-160....
The truck has been sitting for 2 months. When i did the compression test i did not warm the truck up. Just pulled the plug and did it.
All plugs were clean!
I was by my self, i only cranked the engine for about 5-8 seconds

Cylinder #1 : 140
Cylinder #2 : 140
Cylinder #3 : 135
Cylinder #4 : 135
Cylinder #5 : 140
Cylinder #6 : 145

Did the radiator pressure test held pressure. ( only thing about this test, is im not 100% sure if i used the correct adapter, it seemed to fit but because it is my friends tools, he might actuality have the toyota one at his work. But i pumped it to 12-14 psi, and it slowly went down and then stayed at like 10 psi. Again not sure if the adapter was the right one) But the radiator seems to build up pressure. After running the engine and if slowly opening the radiator cap you can hear pressure release.

Again, the reservoir gets low, after 6months to 1 year. About 1inch from the full line. The radiator is always to the peak and clean. Heat always works, never overheats.

I might be searching for NOTHING

Did the chemical test. That also passed.
 
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kolelt said:
rear heater line is by passed.

I just did cylinder compression test. (harbour freight tool) if i remember correctly, when we used my friends matco tool, it was 150-160....
The truck has been sitting for 2 months. When i did the compression test i did not warm the truck up. Just pulled the plug and did it.
All plugs were clean!
I was by my self, i only cranked the engine for about 5-8 seconds

Cylinder #1 : 140
Cylinder #2 : 140
Cylinder #3 : 135
Cylinder #4 : 135
Cylinder #5 : 140
Cylinder #6 : 145

Did the radiator pressure test held pressure. ( only thing about this test, is im not 100% sure if i used the correct adapter, it seemed to fit but because it is my friends tools, he might actuality have the toyota one at his work. But i pumped it to 12-14 psi, and it slowly went down and then stayed at like 10 psi. Again not sure if the adapter was the right one) But the radiator seems to build up pressure. After running the engine and if slowly opening the radiator cap you can hear pressure release.

Again, the reservoir gets low, after 6months to 1 year. About 1inch from the full line. The radiator is always to the peak and clean. Heat always works, never overheats.

I might be searching for NOTHING

Did the chemical test. That also passed.
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I'd redo that compression test, or better yet just act like you never did it. You're just searching for a problem.
 
kolelt said:
I agree with you, in all honesty. But is there something wrong with the compression test?
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I think he mentioned it because those number seem low. Seems like I've seen guys with numbers closer to 175-200 or so. But I could totally be wrong about that.
 
StreetCreeper said:
While it may be overkill, I'm now running full synthetic with a bigger D3 filter every 5k. Having clean oil and a new filter every 5k just makes me feel all warm & fuzzy inside. I'm poor but I don't mind spending $45 on my oil and filters each time even at the miles I drive which means an oil change every couple months or so.
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How does that D3 filter installation work out for you? Im all for bigger filters I can barely install the current one. I cant imagine trying to cram a longer oil filter in that same space.
 
ZionXIX said:
How does that D3 filter installation work out for you? Im all for bigger filters I can barely install the current one. I cant imagine trying to cram a longer oil filter in that same space.
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If the skid plates are off you can access from the bottom. Or go in from wheel well. I don't have any issues with it but on occasion you have to orient it around and pull it out in a way that doesn't spill too much oil from it.

I just run my truck up on Rhino Ramps and slide a 5 gallon bucket underneath for the oil change. Then move the bucket over and catch any oil from the filter.
 
T4R2014 said:
Let's just blame those numbers on the cheap harbor freight tester.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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To get accurate results the motor should be at operating temp with all plugs removed and the throttle open. 4 to 5 cranks will do.

Spark and fuel infection should be disabled as well.
 
alumarine said:
To get accurate results the motor should be at operating temp with all plugs removed and the throttle open. 4 to 5 cranks will do.

Spark and fuel infection should be disabled as well.
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Oh ok. Good to know. I'll try that. I didn't remove all spark plugs. I just had them disconnected so the engine wouldn't start. However. The engine was not at operating temperature. I just removed one plug. Put the cylinder compression test tube in. Have it few cranks and moved on.
 
Inexpensive and fast results with clear explanations. Tell them everything you do when you send in including oil and fuel additives if you use them. Helps them determine what the results show. Very common use by truck fleets and saves them huge money picking up issues early!!
 
StreetCreeper said:
Your oil might be good for 15k but is your filter going to still be efficient after that many miles? Or do you change out filters on your way to 15k?

Just seems to me that even if the oil is still functioning as intended and the additive pack has not been depleted at 10-15k miles — your oil is still going to be full of crap with everything from unburnt combustion particulates to abrasive wear material if the oil filter is mostly full or worse blocked and in bypass mode.

While it may be overkill, I'm now running full synthetic with a bigger D3 filter every 5k. Having clean oil and a new filter every 5k just makes me feel all warm & fuzzy inside. I'm poor but I don't mind spending $45 on my oil and filters each time even at the miles I drive which means an oil change every couple months or so.
Click to expand...

I use AMSOIL's extended life filters. I pay about $50ish dollars all said and done but only change the oil once a year. It's nice.
 
gamefreakgc said:
I use AMSOIL's extended life filters. I pay about $50ish dollars all said and done but only change the oil once a year. It's nice.
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ZionXIX said:
A year! :wow: Which specific filter and oil are you using? Mileage per year? Details please.
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AMSOIL don't make their own synthetic filters / they relabel the WIX Platium XP synthetic filter.
- after using AMSOIL & their filters for 2 decades, their pricing has gotten out of control
Now I use Pennzoil Ultra & WIX xp filter, and 8,000 mile oil changes on wife's RAV4, v6.
My 4Runner (Yr. 2000, GEN3) gets driven less, and gets changed once/year.

PS - Next oil change I will be using AMSOIL synthetic grease...to account for the extended oil change frequencies.
More reading, see post #14: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/215620-best-oil-high-mileage-engine.html
 

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Toyota has a taller oil filter that you can replace over stock replacement (it's at least an inch taller)...............I can't remember the model number that I use for extended drains of around 12000km each. I am a diehard supporter of Amsoil synthetics but their extended drain filters, as stated above, are way too expensive and the bigger Toyota model is comparable if not better.
 
ThorInc said:
Toyota has a taller oil filter that you can replace over stock replacement (it's at least an inch taller)...............I can't remember the model number that I use for extended drains of around 12000km each. I am a diehard supporter of Amsoil synthetics but their extended drain filters, as stated above, are way too expensive and the bigger Toyota model is comparable if not better.
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The Wix XP 51516 is the same one Amsoil sells and is available at Rockauto for $7 each.

RockAuto

That is one sweet filter. I run it with SuperTech FullSynthetic at 7k OCI. I think super fancy oil is overkill on these engines and I do regular Blackstones that say I could go longer.BITOG loves SuperTech Oil for the money. Everybody has their opinion but this works for me. I don't think Toyota conventional media filter can match the also oversized and synthetic media Wix Platinum 51516XP.
 
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TheDurk said:
The Wix XP 51516 is the same one Amsoil sells and is available at Rockauto for $7 each.

RockAuto

That is one sweet filter. I run it with SuperTech FullSynthetic at 7k OCI. I think super fancy oil is overkill on these engines and I do regular Blackstones that say I could go longer.BITOG loves SuperTech Oil for the money. Everybody has their opinion but this works for me. I don't think Toyota conventional media filter can match the also oversized and synthetic media Wix Platinum 51516XP.
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How is the size of that filter? Bigger than a Toyota D3?
 
StreetCreeper said:
How is the size of that filter? Bigger than a Toyota D3?
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Dunno, last Toyota filter I saw was the factory one I took off in 1999. (Boy, was that sucker on tight. What a pain!) I've used Wix exclusively in everything I have maintained since about 1980. That's a lot of cars and trucks plus one tractor with nothing but good results.

The 51516 (4.828") is taller than the standard V6 4Runner Wix 51348 (3.404") by 1.420".

How tall is a D3?

I think they are all the same diameter or very close. Thw Wix are 74mm.
 
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