Can someone recommend a otre removal tool that’s on amazon? I’d like to try to get the otre off by Wednesday to prep for the new rack. I have the harbor freight tool that doesn’t seem to fit. I saw a video on YouTube where the guy was able to remove the otre with a tool somilar to mine so I know it’s out there. Was hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
OTRE removal tool
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mtbtim
Elite Member
The pullers I use to break the outer tie rod free of the knuckle of the lower balljoint is part of kit that OTC makes. There's two different pullers in that kit that work for the outer tie rod. Here's a linK: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Fro...pID=41apsehGOiL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
I've used that OTC kit extensively and it's worth the expense if you're going to be doing more front end work on your rig.
Also, here's a video that might help you out with the Steering Rack Replacement:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wZoRP5ogrK0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I've used that OTC kit extensively and it's worth the expense if you're going to be doing more front end work on your rig.
Also, here's a video that might help you out with the Steering Rack Replacement:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wZoRP5ogrK0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Thanks for the response. I ended up getting this one:https://www.otctools.com/products/pitman-armtie-rod-end-puller and it worked fine.
Now I'm stuck trying to get the intermediate shaft out of the rack and pinion. It's rusted together and I'm having a hard time getting some heat on there without catching the vehicle on fire. Anyone have any suggestions?
Why does everything on this car have to be a pain in the ass!?!? The PS lines are busted. FML! They were rusted to the rack and stripped out when I tried to disconnect them. I think they were the actual culprit to the PS fluid leak as there was a bunch of fluid around that area. Not upset about replacing the rack though. Just not looking forward to replacing the PS lines. I hear those things are a ***** to replace and very expensive as well.
Oh well, I'm already this far in, I don't think there's much else I can do besides replace them.
Any words of wisdom for those who've tried this already?
Oh well, I'm already this far in, I don't think there's much else I can do besides replace them.
Any words of wisdom for those who've tried this already?
02gixxersix
New member
I just used a puller I bought from O-reilly's. Just measure the surface of the OTRE and grab a puller that fits. I eyeballed it and got lucky I guess. However, my OTRE was frozen to my ITRE and the ball popped out while I was getting an alignment last week. Had to put Duralast junk on the passenger side, and now I'm thinking it's probably time to do the driver's side as well.
thecole1098
New member
I had to do the same on mine when I did the rack. It really isn't that bad to R&R the lines, espeically if you know you don't need to reuse them. I just cut my old ones at both ends of the system and unbolted where they mount to the frame and dropped in this entire assembly as one. Only tricky part is snaking the new assembly in, but all in all not bad. This assemby is only $90!
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02gixxersix
New member
I beat mine with a sledge and it didn't budge. Puller made quick work of it, though. $14 or so IIRC.
I ended up getting one out with a pickle fork and one with the OEM tool linked above. For the PS lines, I ended up cutting through the lines with a sawzall and replacing the lines from the ps pump.
My new problem is trying to get the rack and steering in alignment enough to get it to the alignment shop so that I don't screw up the clock spring. When I was going through the process of disconnecting the rag joint, I lost the orientation of the steering wheel/clockspring. I don't know where the clock spring is now. Also before I installed the rack, I lost where the rack is oriented; weather it's in the middle or off to the side. I wanted to run this by you guys before i actually went through with this. I was going to pull the steering wheel off, pull the clock spring off, then disconnect the tie rod ends, temporarily put the steering wheel back on without the clockspring, turn the wheel all the way left. When I hit the end of the rack, I would count the number of turns to the right, then turn back half of that. That would center the rack, then I would reinstall the clockspring and steering wheel.
Does anyone see an issue with that or think there's a better/smarter way to fix it?
Thanks for the input.
My new problem is trying to get the rack and steering in alignment enough to get it to the alignment shop so that I don't screw up the clock spring. When I was going through the process of disconnecting the rag joint, I lost the orientation of the steering wheel/clockspring. I don't know where the clock spring is now. Also before I installed the rack, I lost where the rack is oriented; weather it's in the middle or off to the side. I wanted to run this by you guys before i actually went through with this. I was going to pull the steering wheel off, pull the clock spring off, then disconnect the tie rod ends, temporarily put the steering wheel back on without the clockspring, turn the wheel all the way left. When I hit the end of the rack, I would count the number of turns to the right, then turn back half of that. That would center the rack, then I would reinstall the clockspring and steering wheel.
Does anyone see an issue with that or think there's a better/smarter way to fix it?
Thanks for the input.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I feel your pain
What I have done in the past is get the wheels off the ground and turn all the way to full lock on one side, counting the rotation of the steering wheel, turn all the way to full lock on the other side. Half of that is middle.
NOTE: If your steering wheel is wildly off you can either separate the rag joint to fix, or pull the steering wheel and reinstall.
Turn half to the middle and lock the steering wheel in place. Now adjust your tie rods to get the wheels reasonably straight. Tighten it down and go get an alignment. There are lots of points you can measure to to confirm the wheels being straight and sometimes taking the wheels off the hubs helps
If you are not comfortable with doing this, get it towed in.
Luck :surfer:
fourfive
Senior Member
I’m quoting a write up from ttora by terrj5 that I’ve used when I was checking the “steering wheel to rack to otr centeredness” on another 3rd gen. Seemed like a very thorough approach to me.
“Pop both outer tie rods off at the spindle and let them hang. Don't unscrew them. Disconnect the steering (rack) pinion shaft from the rag joint (Toyota calls this the Control Valve Shaft). Mark the pinion shaft and turn it slowly from lock to lock counting the # of turns then turn it back half the total # of turns. Be as exact as you can. The rack is now centered and you need to center the steering wheel within its limits and connect it back to the rack. This is a little touchy. One way is to turn the wheel counterclockwise GENTLY GENTLY until resistance is felt. Be gentle, at this point you are starting to bind and traumatize the spiral cable or "clock spring" as some call it. Now turn the wheel back towards center exactly 2.5 turns. The steering wheel and column are now close to center. If you are sure that the steering wheel has never been removed and it is close to being oriented correctly you could connect the rack back to the steering shaft and go from there. The proper way to center the column/spiral cable is as above but with the wheel off so two alignment marks on the cable assembly can be seen and aligned to get the "exact" center (Your call). All this is detailed in the FSM.
Once you know that the rack and column are centered, the inner t-rods should be checked to verify that they were screwed all the way on the rack shaft ends. If your new rack came with the inner t-rod ends installed they are more than likely installed correctly, your call. Once this "centering" process is done, or verified, an alignment procedure can start.
Start the alignment process by unscrewing both outer t-rods while counting the turns (approximately) then screw them both back on about that # of turns. The key here is to screw each end on the same # of turns. If the counted turns when you unscrewed them was different, just split the difference. Again make sure the outer ends are installed with the SAME # of turns. The number of turns is immaterial at this point.
Now, the big "if". If nothing is bent and the alignment cams on the lower arms mirror each other (more or less) you should be able to screw the outer ends in or out to a point that the taper on the end drops into the spindle. ALWAYS turn BOTH ends the same amount. Example, if you turn one side "in" one turn you must turn the other side in one turn and the other way around. This is all that keeps the wheel/rack centered. Do not let the steering wheel or tires move while you do all this. If the outer ends do not line up just get it as close as you can (with equal turns on each side). You can now head back to the alignment shop and tell them how you verified the rack/steering wheel center and the # of turns thing with the outer ends. A good alignment man should be able to take it from there and should be able to tell for sure if "something is bent" and "where". At the final alignment the turn count on the outer ends should be within about 3 turns of each other.
You might also want to try another shop or at least decide on the shop after you see their reaction to your story. When it's all buttoned up the alignment cam settings on one side should mirror the other. This usually ends up just "close", unless "something is bent", but at least you will know.”
When I changed my rack and pinion. I couldn't get mine of also. So I said F It. When to the dealer. Order new one. And put the new one on the new rack and pinion with some anti seize.
To pull it of the. Steering shaft. Heat it up. And bang it downward.
Why ? It works everytime. No need for arm puller. It doesn't mess up the threads because it's softer then the metal.
Shit I pop my LBJ by hitting the side of it with hammer. No harm.
Update: So I pulled the steering wheel off, two bolts on each side hold the airbag, then the 19mm in the center holds the steering wheel on. I needed to rent a steering wheel puller from autozone but got it off. After that I removed the shroud to the column with 3 screws, two behind the steering wheel and 1 underneath the shroud. It pops open after that. The clock spring was held on with 4 screws. After I unscrewed those, the clock spring came right out and I put the steering wheel back on. With the tie rods disconnected, I put the steering wheel back on, turned it all the way left, turned it 3.5 times right, then turned it 1.75 times back toward center. I centered the clock spring using the same methodology, turn all the way left until I felt tension, turn all the way right 5 times, turned it back towards center 2.5 times. Then I reinstalled it and the steering wheel after that.
I think the rack is centered with the steering wheel at this point. Now I need to figure out what to do with the tie rod ends. It seems as if I put the front wheels back on, the wheels would be straight enough to drive to the alignment shop that's 3 blocks away.
Should I go for it? Is there anything I should do to make the alignment shop's job easier?
I think the rack is centered with the steering wheel at this point. Now I need to figure out what to do with the tie rod ends. It seems as if I put the front wheels back on, the wheels would be straight enough to drive to the alignment shop that's 3 blocks away.
Should I go for it? Is there anything I should do to make the alignment shop's job easier?
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
3 blocks ain't far, just make sure it doesn't fall apart along the way and make sure they know you're coming so they can accommodate you..
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
You'll know if your wheel is not centered. You need to count how many turns it takes to turn it all the way to the right. Then to the left. And if it's really of. You need to adjust the steering.
