Overheating need advice quick!

M

mikesayboom

New member
Hey guys I'm on my way to New Mexico to snowboard and as soon as I pull into the state of NM my temp gauge is shooting up and my check engine comes on. I turn on the heat and pull over turn the car off and pop the hood and steam is coming out. I look at the radiator and hoses and don't notice any cracks in either. It looks like the was just overflowing to the reservoir and and spilling out from there.

We let it cool down and try to get it 5 miles down the road to a gas station. Turn t on and the check engine light is off and temp is fine. Tried using the heat on full to help the over heating and I'm getting no heat at all now. And make it about 3 miles before it's shooting up to heat again.

Could my rad just of gone bad? Or should I look into anything else.
 
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Check all your hoses, top and bottom. Can you tell if any steam is escaping and from where? Radiator cap could have gone bad, inspect that. No heat means that the coolant is either not getting to the heater core or the fluid is already gone. What did the coolant look like? dirty?
 
TXRick said:
Check all your hoses, top and bottom. Can you tell if any steam is escaping and from where? Radiator cap could have gone bad, inspect that. No heat means that the coolant is either not getting to the heater core or the fluid is already gone. What did the coolant look like? dirty?
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I checked all hoses and nothing looks cracked and no leaks at all. It looks like the only place coolant came from is from where it overflows into the resoivoir. What coolant that was left in the reservoir seemed clear. I do have a external transmission cooler so I don't have to worry about that.
 
When you did that coolant flush a month ago did you use a 50/50 mix? Does it have green or red coolant? Also get a scan gauge 2 to accurately measure your coolant temp. The stock analog gauge is junk. It will only show you if you have a severe problem. My analog temp gauge in the dash seemed normal but after installing the scan guage 2 i saw i was nearly 232 degrees at a stoplight in Arkansas. A digital scan gauge would have showed symptoms of a failed cooling circuit long before a major event. I replaced my fan clutch and it solved my problem of high temps. But i never knew it based on the stock gauge, it never went above half when my coolant was boiling to 235. Now my temps are never above 200, its ususally 188-193. Chances are the radiator sprung a leak, bad cap, or worst a cracked or wrapped head.
Any chance its just water in your cooling system and not the proper 50/50 mix? Otherwise how could the overflow be CLEAR?
 
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frodiesel said:
When you did that coolant flush a month ago did you use a 50/50 mix? Does it have green or red coolant? Also get a scan gauge 2 to accurately measure your coolant temp. The stock analog gauge is junk. It will only show you if you have a severe problem. A digital scan gauge would have showed symptoms of a failed cooling circuit long before a major event. Chances are the radiator sprung a leak, bad cap, or worst a cracked or wrapped head.
Click to expand...


I did the coolant flush 50/50 Toyota red. Got it from the dealer pretty cheap. Right now that I'm stuck I just opened the radiator and the little gasket popped off. Was that suppose to be connected to the rad cap? Their were no signs of leaking by the radiator cap. And also my temp gauge never went to half it was always slightly below.
 
mikesayboom said:
I did the coolant flush 50/50 Toyota red. Got it from the dealer pretty cheap. Right now that I'm stuck I just opened the radiator and the little gasket popped off. Was that suppose to be connected to the rad cap? Their were no signs of leaking by the radiator cap. And also my temp gauge never went to half it was always slightly below.
Click to expand...

If you replaced the cap and the old gasket was on the radiator, then you'd have double gaskets and an easy place for a leak. Replace the cap, top off the fluid while it's idling. It could be that simple. Also check the belt for the water pump, and to see if it's leaking from the weep hole or main shaft.
 
mikesayboom said:
I did the coolant flush 50/50 Toyota red. Got it from the dealer pretty cheap. Right now that I'm stuck I just opened the radiator and the little gasket popped off. Was that suppose to be connected to the rad cap? Their were no signs of leaking by the radiator cap. And also my temp gauge never went to half it was always slightly below.
Click to expand...

I've seen OEM radiator caps fall apart and pieces of the cap assembly end up inside the radiator. The symptoms you are experiencing could all be attributed to a bad radiator cap that's not holding pressure for the cooling system to operate properly. The fact that your heater isn't blowing hot air sounds like air is trapped in the system due to the bad seal your cap was getting.

Do not, I repeat, DO NOT drive it like this. You don't want to keep on overheating your engine. If you can get towed to a local Toyota dealer so you can get a new cap, I'd do that. If there isn't a dealer close by, get an auto parts store cap that will work until you can get to a dealer and get a new OEM radiator cap. Once you get the new cap, top off your coolant with more red 50/50 mix. Start the engine and turn the heater on high, when the thermostat opens and the coolant starts circulating from the engine to the radiator, the air in the system will work it's way out to the radiator and the level should drop. Top off the radiator level and let it run some more to see if it drops anymore. If the level isn't dropping anymore and you're getting heat out of your heater now, you've most likely gotten the air out of the system. Stop your engine, put your new radiator cap on and bring your overflow up to the minimum level for now. At your next fuel stop, recheck your overflow level. If isn't to the full level, top it off and you should be good to go.

Here's a link explaining the issues a bad radiator cap can cause:
https://www.reference.com/vehicles/symptoms-bad-radiator-cap-77de5b4b32878fe5
 
Be sure to check the lower radiator hose is not collapsing. See if the truck stop has an infrared thermometer.

Is there a Uhaul around the can rent a truck and trailer?
 
mtbtim said:
I've seen OEM radiator caps fall apart and pieces of the cap assembly end up inside the radiator. The symptoms you are experiencing could all be attributed to a bad radiator cap that's not holding pressure for the cooling system to operate properly. The fact that your heater isn't blowing hot air sounds like air is trapped in the system due to the bad seal your cap was getting.

Do not, I repeat, DO NOT drive it like this. You don't want to keep on overheating your engine. If you can get towed to a local Toyota dealer so you can get a new cap, I'd do that. If there isn't a dealer close by, get an auto parts store cap that will work until you can get to a dealer and get a new OEM radiator cap. Once you get the new cap, top off your coolant with more red 50/50 mix. Start the engine and turn the heater on high, when the thermostat opens and the coolant starts circulating from the engine to the radiator, the air in the system will work it's way out to the radiator and the level should drop. Top off the radiator level and let it run some more to see if it drops anymore. If the level isn't dropping anymore and you're getting heat out of your heater now, you've most likely gotten the air out of the system. Stop your engine, put your new radiator cap on and bring your overflow up to the minimum level for now. At your next fuel stop, recheck your overflow level. If isn't to the full level, top it off and you should be good to go.

Here's a link explaining the issues a bad radiator cap can cause:
https://www.reference.com/vehicles/symptoms-bad-radiator-cap-77de5b4b32878fe5
Click to expand...





My parents made it out and towed me back to Amarillo. Going to call the Toyota dealer and get more Toyota coolant and a new rad cap. If the cap was bad wouldn't coolant of spilt out of there? The only place I see coolant is we're the hose goes to the overflow resovoir.

One thing I noticed was that when we stopped my car and opened the hood the fan wasn't spinning. Which leads me to believe it maybe just a bad fan clutch. Because shouldn't it still be spinning to Keep the temp down even though the car is off?
 
mikesayboom said:
My parents made it out and towed me back to Amarillo. Going to call the Toyota dealer and get more Toyota coolant and a new rad cap. If the cap was bad wouldn't coolant of spilt out of there? The only place I see coolant is we're the hose goes to the overflow resovoir.

One thing I noticed was that when we stopped my car and opened the hood the fan wasn't spinning. Which leads me to believe it maybe just a bad fan clutch. Because shouldn't it still be spinning to Keep the temp down even though the car is off?
Click to expand...

A bad radiator cap that's not holding pressure will not necessarily leak.

Our 3rd Gen fans are driven by the motor. If you had an "Electric" fan, than yes, it could still be spinning after the engine is off.

Start with what I suggested with the new radiator cap, burping the system of air and topping it off. If you're still overheating, I'd then start looking at other possibilities. The radiator cap replacement is the most affordable and easiest thing to try out first.
 
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You were heading up hill so it got overheated. How old is your radiator? If it is the factory radiator and 15+ years old, your problem is there. The coolant channels are clogged. It happened to me too.

Wish you were bit closer. I got 4 hours to Amarillo to come and help you out.
 
Sounds like your system was working properly with it blowing into overflow.

Having just blew up a radiator (OEM with OEM CAP) and flushed my system for the second time in 30k miles here is what I would do. First time was to install a thermostat after I bought it.

Get a laser thermometer. Very affordable at Home Depot and you will use it a lot. If your worried just check your different hoses and block as you work on your issue. It will also help to let you know temps on hoses easily regardless of location.

If you have the system drained it would be a perfect time to pull and check your thermostat. Super easy with no fluid and it will seal right back up with out having to buy a new one. (for the new seal)

Re-Fill and allow system to burp out any air by leaving radiator cap off, turning heater blower on high with temp maxxed both front and rear. I would let it idle in the manner for at least 45 minutes and keep watch on your temp guage. Depending on outside temp you may have to block off radiator to get temp up for constant circulation. (I have to do this again when it warms up as I could not get all the air out and my heater works about 80 percent of what it did. But I was having to run mine in 20 degrees and it would not cycle enough constant water.)

This will show you if the water pump is working and even if the thermostat is opening but not if it is working 100% properly.

At the same time you can check and see if your fan clutch is working properly. You Tube or on here will show you how. Use rolled up paper nothing solid!

Pull the dip stick to see if any moisture....drain a tiny amount of oil after letting it sit for at least a day....again for moisture. Check exhaust for excess white and moisture. (To determine if possibly....again "Possibly" if a head gasket leaking.)

If none of these things...then it would be on to radiator..(should be able to see how clean it is)...water pump....etc. Im betting you will find the issue in the fan or thermostat. Have faith brother!
 
reelamin said:
Sounds like your system was working properly with it blowing into overflow.

Having just blew up a radiator (OEM with OEM CAP) and flushed my system for the second time in 30k miles here is what I would do. First time was to install a thermostat after I bought it.

Get a laser thermometer. Very affordable at Home Depot and you will use it a lot. If your worried just check your different hoses and block as you work on your issue. It will also help to let you know temps on hoses easily regardless of location.

If you have the system drained it would be a perfect time to pull and check your thermostat. Super easy with no fluid and it will seal right back up with out having to buy a new one. (for the new seal)

Re-Fill and allow system to burp out any air by leaving radiator cap off, turning heater blower on high with temp maxxed both front and rear. I would let it idle in the manner for at least 45 minutes and keep watch on your temp guage. Depending on outside temp you may have to block off radiator to get temp up for constant circulation. (I have to do this again when it warms up as I could not get all the air out and my heater works about 80 percent of what it did. But I was having to run mine in 20 degrees and it would not cycle enough constant water.)

This will show you if the water pump is working and even if the thermostat is opening but not if it is working 100% properly.

At the same time you can check and see if your fan clutch is working properly. You Tube or on here will show you how. Use rolled up paper nothing solid!

Pull the dip stick to see if any moisture....drain a tiny amount of oil after letting it sit for at least a day....again for moisture. Check exhaust for excess white and moisture. (To determine if possibly....again "Possibly" if a head gasket leaking.)

If none of these things...then it would be on to radiator..(should be able to see how clean it is)...water pump....etc. Im betting you will find the issue in the fan or thermostat. Have faith brother!
Click to expand...


Thanks for all the help guys! I got back and got a new cap and fluid from Toyota for $30 bucks! My stepdad is letting me borrow his truck to head up to angelfire while he has his mechanic look at it for me. Probably going to have him drop in a new rad and fan clutch because after 233k miles in sure it's due for a new one.
 
Alright, got my car back got new hoses, dense radiator and some fresh toyota red 50/50 coolant in and car ran great all on the 350mile trip back home to Dallas. About an hr out my check engine light came on and got it tested and it is the p0115 code engine coolant temp sensor. Thankfully it looks like it'll be an easy and cheap fix.

Im going to order a sensor from Toyota on Monday, but have a question on the location of then sensor. I went out and took a pic of where i think it is by searching another thread on here but wanted to double check to make sure its the right one before i start undoing the wrong sensor.

 
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