P0300 P0306 Misfire fixed - fuel injector '99 4Runner

Leebo

New member
I know there are several threads on this forum about misfires, ignition failures, etc... but I thought I'd chime in with another story that might help someone else. This is for a 1999 4Runner SR5 with about 155k miles. I'm the original owner.

It started out with a classic rhythmic stumble that I've experienced before that was the result of a failed plug wire. The CEL was on and the codes read P0300 and P0306. I through a new set of NGK plug wires on and the problem seemed to be gone, but then resurfaced the next day. I soon realized a pattern to the problem; with the engine cold, on start up it would run fine. If the engine were stopped then allowed to sit for at least 10 minutes, once restarted the misfire would surface again. If I shut off the engine and let it cool for several hours, once restarted it would be fine. It was as if heat were related, but only if warmed up on startup.

When the symptom would surface, it felt like an even, rhythmic stumble, not erratic... making me feel like it was isolated to one cylinder. Being that the codes were P0300 and P0306, I was convinced that it was an electrical/ignition issue and not fuel. At least that's what I had rationalized in my head at the time.

So, back to shotgunning parts... Since the plug wires were new, I made sure they were making a good connection. From there, I tried more and more things, checking to see if the problem went away after each attempt: new NGK plugs, new coil on cylinder 3 (since that feeds cyl 6 through a plug wire), new coils on cyl 1 and 5. No improvement other than when the engine would momentarily run right, it ran maybe a little stronger than before.

After poking around the forums some more, I read where others had similar misfire symptoms and it ended up being a fuel injector. I had already shotgunned parts and they weren't too horribly expensive, but new fuel injectors were a bit pricey even at the friendly local auto parts stores. I was running out of options short of yelling 'uncle' and taking the car to a shop for a pro to fix. So after looking around I found a reconditioned fuel injector on rock auto a lot cheaper than new ones and so I bought one. I took the intake manifold off and replaced the #6 fuel injector. After 3 weeks since the swap, the problem has not resurfaced so I consider it fixed now.

It still puzzles me how the engine can report a P0306 which is ignition related, yet the source of the problem had to do with a fuel injector. I guess my understanding of how the PCM determines a fault tied to a P0306 is wrong; wouldn't it just see an unexpected voltage level at the coil? i.e. not discharged as expected? I don't understand how the presence of fuel in the chamber, or lack thereof would have any affect on this. Clearly I'm wrong since changing the injector fixed it, but I still don't get why. Any thoughts on this?
 
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Leebo,

I had almost the exact same symptom and faulty injector on #2 ... I don't know if the problem got worse over time or not, but it seems like it took me a a few months to figure out how to reproduce it. For the longest time, it just seemed like an intermittent fault that was really tough to track down. Once it was repeatable, things started making sense.

I think what was going on with both of us is that the faulty injector would leak after you shut the engine off (it's under pressure). So, if you let the engine sit until it cools off, the leaking fuel evaporates, the pressure drops, and/or the injector quits leaking ... Meaning, cold starts are perfect. However, when you start it back up 10 minutes after the initial shutoff, while it's still warm, the leaking fuel has not dissipated yet, and results in that cylinder being rich.

During the "misfire" condition the crank/cam position sensors can see that the problem cylinder is not contributing (to rotating the crank) efficiently. Meanwhile, the O2 sensor can see the extra fuel (that wasn't burned properly by the problem cylinder initially). The computer then tries to compensate for the rich condition (which really doesn't exist anymore) and the fuel mapping gets messed up for a few minutes.

Read this about P030x codes ... you can see why it's not necessarily an indication of ignition (spark) components:

P0301 Diagnostic Theory for Shops and Technicians
When the code P0300 is set in the Powertrain Computer, it means that the Misfire Monitor has detected more than a 2 percent variance in RPM between the firing of any two (or more) cylinders in the firing order. The Misfire Monitor constantly checks the rotational speed of the Crankshaft by counting the pulses of the Crankshaft Sensor. The Monitor wants to see a smooth increase or decrease in engine RPM.

If there are jerky and sudden changes in the speed output of the Crankshaft Sensor, the Misfire Monitor begins to count the RPM increase (or lack thereof) contributed by each cylinder. If it varies beyond 2 percent, the Monitor will set a P0300 code and illuminate the Check Engine Light. If there is more than a 10 percent variance, the Check Engine Light will blink or pulse in a steady manner to indicate that a harmful Catalytic Converter misfire is occurring.
 
Mattman,

Thanks for the feedback. That helps clear up the P030x and explain how the fuel injector was related. OBDII is really helpful, especially when I fully understand the logic triggering the code. :happy: Very glad to have that head scratcher behind me.
 
Same boat...

Same exact problem for me so I hope the injector is the culprit. Already replaced coils, plugs and wires. Seafoamed, cleaned the MAF and throttle body as well and after clearing the codes the problem returned as you said not on a total cold start. Only difference is I also got P0171 which is "System too lean Bank 1" in addition to P0302. Makes sense that it would still be an injector/fuel issue so I'm thinking I need to test that injector and possibly replace...
 
Because changing the injectors requires pulling the intake manifold plenum which is kind of a pain, I didn't want to pull the injector, swap it out with one from another cylinder or rely on a test for an injector that works sometimes/sometimes not. That plus I needed to have the truck back in service asap since it gets driven daily and couldn't wait to send the injector off to be tested (I don't know of a place local that does testing). The 4Runner injectors aren't cheap but rockauto had the best price I could find for a remanufactured one so I took a gamble and just replaced my suspect injector with one of those. It's still working just fine. Good luck with your fix.
 
Leebo

Well at least that was a fix for you, congrats!

Turns out I will be able to let my 4runner sit a little while so I am going to pull all of the injectors. Going to test them all with a meter first. If any check bad I'll replace with the ones you mentioned from rock auto as that means the coil inside is bad and that can't be fixed. The ones that check good I'm going to send to Witchhunter performance. For $22 an injector they test and clean them and replace any part of the injector that can be replaced. It's basically like a rebuilt injector when you get it back. Only thing is they can't replace the coil as the injector itself is a sealed part so you have to check them before sending to them. Hopefully this will be the end of my saga...we'll see
 
???

All of the injectors show about 16 on the meter so i believe they are all fine? Guessing they could still be the problem if they are clogged or not spraying right so I will send them all off to Witchhunter. Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
Update...

Because changing the injectors requires pulling the intake manifold plenum which is kind of a pain, I didn't want to pull the injector, swap it out with one from another cylinder or rely on a test for an injector that works sometimes/sometimes not. That plus I needed to have the truck back in service asap since it gets driven daily and couldn't wait to send the injector off to be tested (I don't know of a place local that does testing). The 4Runner injectors aren't cheap but rockauto had the best price I could find for a remanufactured one so I took a gamble and just replaced my suspect injector with one of those. It's still working just fine. Good luck with your fix.

Ok I give. I just re-installed the fuel injectors after getting them back from Witchhunter. All of the injectors tested good but the cleaning definitely helped as evidenced by the test results. I put it all back together and it fired up with no issues. Started better than before and ran better as well. Test drove it and let it sit for about an hour to try and duplicate the problem that occurred before (see original posts).

Started it after about an hour and it fired right up and idled fine. Started driving and I felt a little hesitation. I accelerated to clear it out and the CEL started flashing then went off. Still no idle issues though. Drove it a bit farther and the CEL came on solid and stayed on. Went home and pulled the codes and it showed P0302 Misfire Cylinder #2 and P0171 System too lean. It still has no idle issues and sounds/runs fine so I am at a loss. :redbrick:

To summarize I have done the following:

Replaced spark plug wires with NGK's
Three new coil packs
Checked spark plugs (New Densos) (no cracks, gap issues, fouling, water or oil)
Removed all six injectors and sent to Witchhunter (all 6 cleaned and passed)
Reinstalled injectors
Cleaned plenum, throttle body and MAF
Checked vacuum lines and replaced two cracked ones
Replaced fuel filter
Seafoam in gas tank and through plenum

Any suggestions or help is appreciated from anyone...
 
Ever changed the O2 sensor(s)?

Before that, if new coils and cleaned injectors did not fix the problem, then make sure the injector wiring to the #2 injector is good. You also may want to do a compression test to see if you have a bad valve in cyl 2.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. Coupla questions...

Can I check the wiring for #2 with a voltmeter after disconnecting? Checked it visually when I replaced the injector and it looked fine.

Which O2 sensor would it be? the one towards the front of the car or the rear?
 
Also my Torque app shows both O2 sensors working with the right voltage. #1 varies from .5 to .7 as does #2 until it warms up then it goes to 0.
 
The symptoms are back as they were...first start up of the day it runs like a champ at idle, under load, on the freeway you name it. As soon as you turn it off and let it sit for five minutes before starting it up again, the symptoms return. Bad idle, low power, chugging at low rpms and under load or acceleration the codes return.

People have mentioned the O2 sensor...When running my Torque app I did notice the #2 sensor goes to 0.0 v when this restart issue occurs. After first startup it is 0.6 to 0.7 v. I thought that once it warms up it goes to 0.0. Is this the case?

Might have to toss in the towel and take to a shop nearby. I'm out of cheap DIY fixes at this point.

I'm in Rancho Cucamonga, CA if anyone has any recommendations for a local shop.
 
The symptoms are back as they were...first start up of the day it runs like a champ at idle, under load, on the freeway you name it. As soon as you turn it off and let it sit for five minutes before starting it up again, the symptoms return. Bad idle, low power, chugging at low rpms and under load or acceleration the codes return.

People have mentioned the O2 sensor...When running my Torque app I did notice the #2 sensor goes to 0.0 v when this restart issue occurs. After first startup it is 0.6 to 0.7 v. I thought that once it warms up it goes to 0.0. Is this the case?

Might have to toss in the towel and take to a shop nearby. I'm out of cheap DIY fixes at this point.

I'm in Rancho Cucamonga, CA if anyone has any recommendations for a local shop.

Rear sensor (#2) has no effect on how the engine runs; it just sets codes.

Since you have Torque, what are the reported engine temps at cold startup and hot startup? Maybe a bad ECT (coolant temp sensor) could cause this.
 
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Ever changed the O2 sensor(s)?

Before that, if new coils and cleaned injectors did not fix the problem, then make sure the injector wiring to the #2 injector is good. You also may want to do a compression test to see if you have a bad valve in cyl 2.

I'd put a new injector in #2, not a cleaned refurb one. I've read where people have replaced a bad injector with a "cleaned" one and the problem didn't cease until a new injector was placed in the truck.
 
Ill check when I get home...

Rear sensor (#2) has no effect on how the engine runs; it just sets codes.

Since you have Torque, what are the reported engine temps at cold startup and hot startup? Maybe a bad ECT (coolant temp sensor) could cause this.

Thanks. I thought the same about the O2 sensors. I will check the temps and post when I get home and drive it.
 
Injectors

I'd put a new injector in #2, not a cleaned refurb one. I've read where people have replaced a bad injector with a "cleaned" one and the problem didn't cease until a new injector was placed in the truck.

Thanks for the info. I would say the same except they weren't just "cleaned". I sent all six to Witchhunter. They not only clean but perform multiple tests on the injectors and replace all parts that can be replaced. They also provide the test data to the customer when shipped back. Witchhunter has very good reviews and feedback from other forum members so I'm trusting their work. Also I did not mark them so the same injector was not put back in cylinder #2. I think I can pretty much rule out the actual injectors for these reasons.
 
Rear sensor (#2) has no effect on how the engine runs; it just sets codes.

Since you have Torque, what are the reported engine temps at cold startup and hot startup? Maybe a bad ECT (coolant temp sensor) could cause this.

Temps are 100.6 after sitting all day and then 186.2 after started up and drove with error. I did drive it this morning but it sat for 11 hours so that should be the cold temp.
 
Temps are 100.6 after sitting all day and then 186.2 after started up and drove with error. I did drive it this morning but it sat for 11 hours so that should be the cold temp.

Nope, don't think that's it. No cheap fixes left I can think of. Compression check and fuel pressure check would be the two things to consider. (I don't think I saw you had done either.)
 
Nope I haven't done either of those and am scared now its something major. Pretty bummed. Bought this 4Runner six months ago because it ran so well and all the rave reviews about them. Losing my work car soon and needed dependable transportation. Can't afford to sink a ton into this but no real choice so I'm tapping out. You're right...all the cheap DIY stuff has been done.

Nothing but awesome reviews for this shop thats local to me called Yota Masters. Supposed to be honest trustworthy guys who know their s**t when it comes to Toyotas. I'm gonna take it to them and run down everything I've done/found and see what they find. Crossing my fingers...I will update. Thanks for all the input.
 
Nope I haven't done either of those and am scared now its something major. Pretty bummed. Bought this 4Runner six months ago because it ran so well and all the rave reviews about them. Losing my work car soon and needed dependable transportation. Can't afford to sink a ton into this but no real choice so I'm tapping out. You're right...all the cheap DIY stuff has been done.

Nothing but awesome reviews for this shop thats local to me called Yota Masters. Supposed to be honest trustworthy guys who know their s**t when it comes to Toyotas. I'm gonna take it to them and run down everything I've done/found and see what they find. Crossing my fingers...I will update. Thanks for all the input.

I feel your pain. You have done more to your engine in six months than I have to mine since I bought it new. Good luck.
 

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