P0333 and P2433 - Repairing rodent damage.

[dasx86]

Documenting my adventure to fix these two codes. A rodent decided to take up residence in the V of my 4.7L 2UZFE and did some remodeling.

P2433 - Secondary Air Injection System Air Flow / Pressure Sensor Circuit High Bank 1
P0333 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)

Symptoms: check engine light on, VSC/traction control/ABS lights on. Car is in limp mode, does not accelerate well, difficult to get to highway speeds, and impossible to keep highway speeds when going up medium gradients.

EDIT: David Clark on YouTube created an excellent 3-part video of this process needed to get to the point of repair.. If you're unsure if you can handle this job, watch these videos from start to finish.

Secondary Air Injection Pump Replacement 2006 Sequoia/Tundra Chapter 1: Removing the Intake Manifold - YouTube
Secondary Air Injection Pump Replacement Toyota Sequoia/Tundra Chapter 2: Replacing the Pump - YouTube
Secondary Air Injection Pump Replacement 2006 Toyota Sequoia/Tundra Chapter 3: - YouTube

And here's another, for a Tundra, but same 2UZFE: How to Replace the Secondary Air Injection Pump and Check Valves on a 2000-2007 Toyota Sequoia - YouTube


To start, it's necessary to take the out the air intake, intake manifold, fuel rails, etc. I generally followed the steps found here: 2005 V8 engine - Gaining access to the secondary air pump circuit

I had some problems getting the manifold out, and it came down to two 10MM bolts. The guy who made this video (thanks!) illustrates it well in this video, around the 15:34 mark: 2007 Toyota Tundra intake removal - YouTube The one on the left (pass) side isn't even attached to the manifold, it just allows the wire harness to flex just enough to get the manifold out.

Will edit further and post some pictures later this evening, and as the process continues.

Here's where she sits now, with the manifold off. Close up pics of the damage forthcoming

 

[dasx86]

Here's what's causing P2433 - the connection to the pressure sensor has been severed. This is part of the emissions system on the V8 beginning in 2005. 2003 and 2004 2UZFEs do not have this system.

Interestingly, looks like someone has been here already - there's a ziptie holding the plug on (I already cut it)

Here, you can see where the cable ran to at the open end of the wrench:

 

[dasx86]

So, need to find a new plug. The rat didn't leave me much to work with. Not a lot of wire to solder onto.

I should be able to find a pigtail for this. Here's Hewitt Tech selling a sensor with a pigtail: Bypass Kit Addon: Pressure Sensor Replacement Wired | Hewitt Tech

Searching around for "toyota pressure sensor pigtail" I've found this: AC PRESSURE SWITCH CONNECTOR for TOYOTA (2000-2017) | eBay

For when the auction disappears, here's a picture. Looks right to me!

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I would recommend wrapping the electrical bit in rodent tape, we some fancy stuff that Honda sells.

Genuine Honda Rodent Tape - 4019-2317

 

[dasx86]

I would recommend wrapping the electrical bit in rodent tape, we some fancy stuff that Honda sells.

Genuine Honda Rodent Tape - 4019-2317

Yep, this is on my radar. I might go completely overkill: wrap the wires in split loom, wrap the split loom in steel mesh, then wrap that in rodent tape. Don't want to revisit this problem ever again :sniper:

 

[dasx86]

Not pictured: removing the air injection pump system. I followed the steps found here starting at about 6 minutes in. How to Replace the Secondary Air Injection Pump and Check Valves on a 2000-2007 Toyota Sequoia - YouTube I had to cut the hose at the rear, just as seen in the video. 100% necessary, hose was rock hard.

Also not pictured: cleaning out all the rat sh*t, nesting material ripped off my firewall , chicken bones...

Observe the knock sensor chewed clean off to the nub on the left - there's the cause of the P0333 code

Knock sensor wires at the bottom, pressure sensor wires at the top. I have a pressure sensor pigtail in hand (pictured in above post,) plus a knock sensor pigtail found on RockAuto. Repair to come.

 

[MikeinNH67]

Stinkin's critters. I had the same happen on a Honda V6. Curious if you're going to replace the starter while you're in there.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

Stinkin's critters. I had the same happen on a Honda V6. Curious if you're going to replace the starter while you're in there.

I threw a copperhead in my project while it's on standby

 

[dasx86]

Stinkin's critters. I had the same happen on a Honda V6. Curious if you're going to replace the starter while you're in there.

Nope, not replacing the starter. I thought of it, but some post somewhere around here gave me the impression that the starters on these rarely fail. :shrug: Also, seemed like I'd have to muck about with the coolant bypass/air injection items toward the back of the engine to remove the starter..... perhaps not, did not research. I'll dig back in if needed, wasn't too bad to go this far

 

[dasx86]

Finished this up last week.

First, the knock sensor. Stock sensor has white wire on top, black on bottom (all within the blue sheath.) I heatshrinked the replacement wires to remember before installing.

Next, armor it up a bit with some wire loom:

Then, armor it further with wire mesh I cut into strips. If the number of cuts I gave myself correlates to the damage this'll do to future intruders, it's worth it. Or maybe I just lost my mind:

 

[dasx86]

After repairing the knock sensor, I reinstalled the air pump system (not pictured.) Even though I've bypassed the system and it should never activate, I replaced the air hose that I cut off earlier. Part number is 17342-50180, picked it up off Amazon here: Amazon.com: Toyota 17342-50180 Air Injection System Hose : Automotive

Next, prepare the pigtail connector by putting some heatshrink on so I know what wire goes where:

Solder and shrink it up:

Put some wire loom around it:

Tape it up. Didn't armor these wires like the knock sensor, I got tired. You can see the new air hose on the left:

Last, buttoned it all up by reversing the steps to install the intake manifold. Replaced the intake manifold gasket. Noticed that 7(!) out of the 8 fuel injectors were missing the lower gasket where the injector mates up to the manifold, so replaced all 8. Part number 23291-41010.

First start failed, because I didn't hook up the main wiring harness behind the intake manifold - oops! Second start (without airbox or vacuum lines hooked up) fired, but died instantly. Third start with everything hooked up was good! Cleared the codes using an OBD2 tool and I've been good to go.

Hope this helps someone searching this issue in the future. Cheers to all contributing good info to the forums! :cheers:

 

[MikeinNH67]

Nice, looks good. Odd on the missing gaskets.

 

[4r-4ever]

i hope the remodeling turned out great! just fire him for the worst job ever.

 

[djpope09]

Nice, looks good. Odd on the missing gaskets.

Yeah that's interesting. I always assumed without that little gasket that the injector wouldn't seat properly and you would get major misfire issues.

Maybe there's enough suction from the cylinder to pull all the fuel in anyway.

 

[dasx86]

Yeah that's interesting. I always assumed without that little gasket that the injector wouldn't seat properly and you would get major misfire issues.

Maybe there's enough suction from the cylinder to pull all the fuel in anyway.

Along with whatever dust and dirt happens to be in the nearby area, right? :doh:

Also surprised that I didn't have any issues. No hint of anything for the 45,000 miles I've put on it since purchase. I'm fully confident they weren't there; if it was one missing, maybe it dropped off and rolled away in my garage... but not 7 of them. I wonder what the prior owner was doing in there, and what they/their tech were thinking