paint protection film
- Thread starter rnb754
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
keithsnell
New member
Yes, the paint protection film is effective, but only cost effective for key areas of the vehicle that are subject to chipping from gravel and debris. (Leading edge of the hood and fenders, rocker panels, etc.)
The pre-cut films sell for a premium, but it is worth it to get something that is custom fit to the contours of the vehicle. I spent $114 for a pre-cut hood and fender kit and another $72 for a 24" x 48" roll of 3M film to use in other areas of the car.
Be aware that a large piece (like if you were trying to cover the doors or side panels) would be very difficult to work with. The larger the piece and more contours to conform to, the more difficult the job will be. (You will end up with bubbles, stretch marks, creases and dust trapped under the film that you won't be happy with). Keep to smaller vulnerable areas on the vehicle and I think you will be happier.
The film will last for about 4 - 5 years before it will start to lift at the edges, and you will eventually need to remove it and apply a new piece.
Good luck when u get to that removal point. Have seen several vehicles need to be repainted because there is no way to efficiently remove the product once it deteriorates. Perhaps different brands behave differently over the long haul but being a contractor for paint & body shops, I have seen way too many bad long term experiences. In theory it is a great idea and personally I have small amounts of it on my vehicles. Door edges, rear window wiper contact area, rocker guards, door sills, all small manageable pieces that are not in direct UV exposure.
scott78945
Member
I got it done on my 11' magnetic gray. If I had to do it over again I wouldn't. It's a pain in the butt to wax as it always seems to build up where the seam hits the truck and you have to really work it to get it out of there. With yours being black it will be that much for noticeable and white lines are not pretty. Secondly, you have to be careful when you wash it as the edges can peel up if the water hits it directly at a high rate. I have not had a problem with mine but just saying. Just my $.02. I may be turning mine in for a 2014/15 Trail Premium and am going back to a black Runner and I will not be getting it the 2nd time around.
danoT4R
New member
It depends on how you use your runner. I have trail striping down both sides of mine and generally don't care about what I think of as minor cosmetic issues. I plan on having my truck for a LONG time and take it up into the mountains weekly.
That being said, when I bought the truck used it already had the front portion of the hood covered, and I have to say I've liked it. I'm not concerned about future peeling or redoing the film, but I drive behind/around semis hauling all kinds of stuff daily (work at a field camp for oil/gas industry). When I got a splatter of something (asphault?) I saw it was on the film and didn't think a thing of it.
Decide what's important to you, and how nice you want to keep it and make the call from there. I think it's a great form of protection, if you're concerned with the minor chips/scrapes that WILL happen to your vehicle without (and maybe still with) it.
That being said, when I bought the truck used it already had the front portion of the hood covered, and I have to say I've liked it. I'm not concerned about future peeling or redoing the film, but I drive behind/around semis hauling all kinds of stuff daily (work at a field camp for oil/gas industry). When I got a splatter of something (asphault?) I saw it was on the film and didn't think a thing of it.
Decide what's important to you, and how nice you want to keep it and make the call from there. I think it's a great form of protection, if you're concerned with the minor chips/scrapes that WILL happen to your vehicle without (and maybe still with) it.
simplemind
New member
Keith, where did you get the film kit, because mine was applied at the port and I had no lifting or yellowing after 3 1/2 yrs.
Last edited:
Magnetic4R
New member
Just had the full front end cover couple of weeks ago....
Had my 02 Lexus half-front covered back in 04 and no yellowing or pealing.
3 years ago, i've removed the lower part of my front lip and there was no damages to paint. We'll see how this goes on the 4runner 5-10yrs from now.
Had my 02 Lexus half-front covered back in 04 and no yellowing or pealing.
3 years ago, i've removed the lower part of my front lip and there was no damages to paint. We'll see how this goes on the 4runner 5-10yrs from now.
keithsnell
New member
The film that I have put on both of my vehicles is not showing an lifting or yellowing. I put a full hood/fender and bumper kit on our (then new) Honda Odyssey 3 years ago and it is still looking great. I just recently put film on the hood and fenders of the 4Runner, so too early to tell there.
However, the film that was put on the rocker panels of the 4Runner (probably at port) is starting to lift at the edges. I'm guessing I'll leave it on for another year or so before I replace it.
I bought the film for both vehicles from Cleardefender.com. They seem to have decent prices, and carry a variety of kits/films from the different manufacturers. You are right in that the different films may age differently. You can read a comparison of the different films on the Cleardefender site and decide what might work best for your vehicle.
There is definitely a difference in the thickness, workability and "finish" of the films from different manufacturers. I've been very happly with the Avery Nano Fusion film I put on the Odyssey. It was relatively easy to work with (more malleable than 3M) and hasn't yellowed or peeled yet. The only film Cleardefender sold that was pre-cut for the 4Runner was 3M, so that's what I used. It seems to be thicker and "tougher" than the the Avery film, was harder to work around the contours, and not quite as glossy. I think Cleardefenders's recommendations for the films are spot on. They recommend Avery over 3M, but note that the 3M film is probably better for a "daily driver" that will take lots of punishment.
The estimate on needing to replace the fim after 5 years or so comes from the 3M literature. I suspect they know their films better than anyone, and that the 5 year estimate is probably based on significant testing on their part. Much of the "aging" of the film is caused by UV exposure, so that will definitely vary based on whether the vehicle is garaged or not.
Last edited:
simplemind
New member
Thanks Keith. Seems like the rocker panels are a bit more difficult anyway since they have a softer pebble finish, at least on my 4R. Probably not really that necessary.
A few comments that may help you rnb. Firstly I'm a big proponent of film and had it on a 4th Gen I owned for 4 year, and then put in on the current 5th Gen. About half of the 30,000 miles on the 2009 SE 4X4 were in the deserts of California, Arizona, and Sonora Mexico, plus offroad in Mainland Mexico.
All those areas are infamous for roads that break down in the heat, and create thousands of bits of broken down road matter. Those are then turned into heat seeking missiles by the vehicle ahead of you. I sold the SE recently and there were clear signs where the film had been hit pretty darn good. However there wasn't a single dent, or failure where the projectile got through to the paint.
I wouldn't even consider a vehicle without it, especially black which shows nicks like crazy. like simple and keith I've never had a problem with yellowing. Actually I think you'll find that concern to be a complaint from early films that were phased long, long ago. Or possibly people going on the cheap and self installing a questionable product line from a non recognized company?
I would also add that we've heard a lot about 3M film in this thread which you want to stay away from. It's by far the least smooth, and known to have somewhat of a "orange peel" finish. Secondly the 3M product also has a lesser reputation for avoiding scratches, compared to the competition.
That being said there are two products you want to stick with. XPEL which is considered the best by just about any installer who carries multiple brands. It's also the most expensive (but in my opinion worth it). Then Suntek, which is also very good and was the industry standard for years until a new product by XPEL surpassed it.
Both companies produce film which is very smooth, and has an amazing ability to resist scratching. If you do this go ahead and step up to covering the lights and also get the bikini cut. That will prevent your lights from "fogging" up with discoloration, and the bikini cut is a curve across the hood which makes the cut line far less easy to make out.
Lastly don't install this stuff yourself. It's a multiyear investment, and if you amortize the savings per year it's just not significant. More importantly NOT worth it, as I'll bet many of the lifting edges (or even yellowing) complaints you hear are caused by not getting the product to bond right.
XPEL has a factory trained installer (very important as each product has different characteristics) in Honolulu:
http://locator.xpel.com/clearbra_installers/listings/United_States/Hawaii
I didn't see a page for installers on the Suntek site, but here's a link for their distributor in California. No doubt they'll have suggestions for Hawaiian installers:
SunTek Window Films and Tinting: Professionally Installed Automotive, Architectural, Safety and Security Window Film and Tinting
Good luck, and enjoy your Runner. I've been to Hawaii many times, and you've got some beautiful off roading there.
All those areas are infamous for roads that break down in the heat, and create thousands of bits of broken down road matter. Those are then turned into heat seeking missiles by the vehicle ahead of you. I sold the SE recently and there were clear signs where the film had been hit pretty darn good. However there wasn't a single dent, or failure where the projectile got through to the paint.
I wouldn't even consider a vehicle without it, especially black which shows nicks like crazy. like simple and keith I've never had a problem with yellowing. Actually I think you'll find that concern to be a complaint from early films that were phased long, long ago. Or possibly people going on the cheap and self installing a questionable product line from a non recognized company?
I would also add that we've heard a lot about 3M film in this thread which you want to stay away from. It's by far the least smooth, and known to have somewhat of a "orange peel" finish. Secondly the 3M product also has a lesser reputation for avoiding scratches, compared to the competition.
That being said there are two products you want to stick with. XPEL which is considered the best by just about any installer who carries multiple brands. It's also the most expensive (but in my opinion worth it). Then Suntek, which is also very good and was the industry standard for years until a new product by XPEL surpassed it.
Both companies produce film which is very smooth, and has an amazing ability to resist scratching. If you do this go ahead and step up to covering the lights and also get the bikini cut. That will prevent your lights from "fogging" up with discoloration, and the bikini cut is a curve across the hood which makes the cut line far less easy to make out.
Lastly don't install this stuff yourself. It's a multiyear investment, and if you amortize the savings per year it's just not significant. More importantly NOT worth it, as I'll bet many of the lifting edges (or even yellowing) complaints you hear are caused by not getting the product to bond right.
XPEL has a factory trained installer (very important as each product has different characteristics) in Honolulu:
http://locator.xpel.com/clearbra_installers/listings/United_States/Hawaii
I didn't see a page for installers on the Suntek site, but here's a link for their distributor in California. No doubt they'll have suggestions for Hawaiian installers:
SunTek Window Films and Tinting: Professionally Installed Automotive, Architectural, Safety and Security Window Film and Tinting
Good luck, and enjoy your Runner. I've been to Hawaii many times, and you've got some beautiful off roading there.
keithsnell
New member
I can see how the "orange peel" might be visible on a darker paint, so going with one of the smoother films is definitely a good recommendation. (It looks just fine on silver since the orange peel is only visible with very close scrutiny on the silver, so I forgot to mention that consideration.) 3M is definitely one of the "budget" options.
LandCruiser
New member
If you live in an area where they put gravel on the roads, you will get rock dings all over your car, not just the front.
Every car that has a clear plastic bra around here, it looks cheap.
Every car that has a clear plastic bra around here, it looks cheap.
rnb754
Member
thanks everyone for the input. I was told by a reputable shop that 3m was also known for the orange peel look. that known installer told me that the avery nano fusion is a lot better and he offers lifetime warranty. I wanted to do the whole front and all the side (full fenders, doors, quarter panel, and partial bumper). im not too concerned about the rear hatch. but im not to sure if its worth the money. ive got quoted $1200-$1600 to do it. it will also be laser cut. do you guys think its worth that kind of money?? not too many installers in Hawaii on the island of Oahu.
rnb I think you're going to be fine with partial front coverage including lights, and that's going to be way, way cheaper. The only thing you may want to add is the front lip of the roof, although that's so high I just went without it.
I can't say it's impossible to get a rock chip above where the bikini or straight cut gives you protection. However in five years I've never had either Runner get a chip there, and can see how it would happen unless you're racing behind other drivers.
Covering your doors really seems unnecessary overkill. Ferrari owners don't even cover side doors. As to the price that's probably about right for what you're talking about. However I think this installer may be talking you into a huge bill, with little resulting protection for the money. Just get a price on the front end itself, which should be in the $600. to $700. range.
IMHO spending more than that for full fenders and sides is very, very low bang for your buck. Did you contact the XPEL installer? Get a price from him, for just the front end as that material has great quality control. There have been some complaints about nano fusion on that front and also having a bit of a cast to it. XPEL is known for being very clear.
Last edited:
rnb754
Member
Hey maz, I didn't have time to contact the xpel dealer. I will be contacting them on monday.
The reason why I wanted to cover the full sides is because I work in a mall and my 2013 4runner got keyed and a lot of scratches when people walk in between cars and don't give a shit about other people's property.
Also I will be parking my 4runner outside my house so I will be wrapping the hood and the roof myself to keep the cost down. I live next to a monkey pod tree and do get a lot of bird crap on my other vehicles so I rather keep the top protected.
On Monday I will be going to these installers to see their work before I decide to do anything.
Thanks for your input!
I wasn't bawling you out rnb...honest :lol:
Instead of covering your doors would it make sense to buy a car cover? That would cost a lot less and maybe is worth looking into. Some of them come with a type of side protection to help against other people opening their car doors.
I used to have a 2005 four door cab Tundra and parked it outside under a cover. It was amazing how long a polish job would last, and oddly enough the visual mass and height (your Runner is also pretty big and tall) the eye sees with the cover, caused many people to want to walk a little clear of it.
Just a thought.
Last edited:
I picked up my 2015 Limited that came with the film installed. On the drive home, a truck kicked up gravel and hit my hood on the film. The film now has a little "dimple" that is whitish in color. Any way this can be repaired or do I need to have the hood section replaced? If so, what would I expect to pay?
well, went to my local tint shop in Chattanooga (Oasis) and they pulled off the port installed front window tint and replaced it with a 30% Llumar metallic film that looks much better.
They also removed the hood paint protection film as it had a nice dimple in it from a piece of gravel tossed up by a trucker.. ZERO damage to the paint underneath, and the replacement film was 100.00 installed.
They also removed the hood paint protection film as it had a nice dimple in it from a piece of gravel tossed up by a trucker.. ZERO damage to the paint underneath, and the replacement film was 100.00 installed.
