painting hood, need suggestions, opinions, tips.

[(4)runnin'it]

Had a terrible case of oxidation, and to temporarily get rid of the eye sore i sanded it all the way and primered it. It looked a little cooler than i thought actually, but im ready to get it back to Anthracite. so ive found some good websites to buy the paint from. Im guessing it would be the best idea to buy the primer, paint and clear coat all from the same place?... i would guess also i need to re-sand the primer, then re primer with a coat of the new primer, then 2 or 3 coats of the Anthracite paint then 2 clear coats.

Any suggestions of where to buy the paint? the order or method i should use? ANY tips are welcome... even if its "let a professional do it," although i'd like to do it myself.

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[Suprareal]

Had a terrible case of oxidation, and to temporarily get rid of the eye sore i sanded it all the way and primered it. It looked a little cooler than i thought actually, but im ready to get it back to Anthracite. so ive found some good websites to buy the paint from. Im guessing it would be the best idea to buy the primer, paint and clear coat all from the same place?... i would guess also i need to re-sand the primer, then re primer with a coat of the new primer, then 2 or 3 coats of the Anthracite paint then 2 clear coats.

Any suggestions of where to buy the paint? the order or method i should use? ANY tips are welcome... even if its "let a professional do it," although i'd like to do it myself.

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Related Products Spray Paint | Touch Up Paint | AutomotiveTouchup | 888-710-5192

you probobly dont need to primer it again unless it got damaged or you want to. id just lightly sand it again possibly wet sanding it with 1000 or 1500 just to make it smooth as possible and then go for ur first coat of anthracite and do as many coats ur comfortable with.
Before i clear coat i wet sand with 1500 VERY lightly again just to make it glossy and smooth. make sure its completly dry and clean before clear coat tho ive ran into the problem where it made the anthracite look spotted haha
just make sure you do the first coat light and let it completly dry before giving another. you can always color sand the finished product for the glossy look.
im just a 19 year old thats refinished about 60 bicycles and small parts of my runner so im no proffesional by the way! aha

 

[CaliCal]

get your primer here! best service ever. it happens that a shop in burbank carries it and it's not really close to wear it live maybe 40min and he personally delivered it to my house! top notch primer and clear. work with most universal paints. they have their own forum you can ask every questions there. i did my homework. its good stuff

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[BrianSD_42]

Im guessing it would be the best idea to buy the primer, paint and clear coat all from the same place?... i would guess also i need to re-sand the primer, then re primer with a coat of the new primer, then 2 or 3 coats of the Anthracite paint then 2 clear coats.

Hi,

Are you planning on using PRO paint and a spray gun (vs. rattle can)? Do not use a rattle can. It will not last and will look like sh$t, no matter what. I say that because you are trying to do the hood and not the bumper, wheels or sliders. When people paint their bumper or sliders it does not matter if the match isn't perfect, no one notices the two tone. BUT on the hood, it will be obvious that it doesn't match.

I would suggest finding someone who can paint it for $250 and simply paying them. I am all for DIY but when it comes to a job like this, if you have to ask on T4R then you probably don't have the skills to do a professional match job. I don't have those skills either, so it isn't just you.

:art:

 

[(4)runnin'it]

Hi,

Are you planning on using PRO paint and a spray gun (vs. rattle can)? Do not use a rattle can. It will not last and will look like sh$t, no matter what. I say that because you are trying to do the hood and not the bumper, wheels or sliders. When people paint their bumper or sliders it does not matter if the match isn't perfect, no one notices the two tone. BUT on the hood, it will be obvious that it doesn't match.

I would suggest finding someone who can paint it for $250 and simply paying them. I am all for DIY but when it comes to a job like this, if you have to ask on T4R then you probably don't have the skills to do a professional match job. I don't have those skills either, so it isn't just you.

:art:

yep thats kinda how im looking at it.

 

[cj80cruiser]

yep thats kinda how im looking at it.

No way man....Do you have a spray gun and an aircompressor already?

Your cart was empty in your first link so I don't know how much your looking at in materials. If it's under $50 in paint and a little sanding material then I'd give this a try myself.....what are you looking for? perfection? This will be a great learning experience and possibly save you money in the future as well.

 

[(4)runnin'it]

No way man....Do you have a spray gun and an aircompressor already?

Your cart was empty in your first link so I don't know how much your looking at in materials. If it's under $50 in paint and a little sanding material then I'd give this a try myself.....what are you looking for? perfection? This will be a great learning experience and possibly save you money in the future as well.

This is my other, more optimistic view. i do have an air compressor. no im not looking for perfectipn either. I agreed that if its only 50 bucks why not try it. either i do it and it doesnt look like what i want and i get it re-done professionally, or i do it and it looks good and i save 200 bucks. anything close to anthracite will probably look better than what i have, and this paint place seems pretty legit so i bet their paint is a good match.

 

[Toms97]

Properly painting anything to match body color, especially large body panels is a pain in the arse. About the best you can hope for is to get "close enough" because there are a lot of factors in a true color match. Things like paint fade, the mix of the paint itself, number of coats, color of primer are all some of the things that will make a difference. This is why many shops will just repaint the whole vehicle instead of trying to match a section.

That being said I do think that if you have the time go ahead and give it a try yourself. The most important things in painting is preparation and patience. Take your time, do it right and you can get it so close that it would be difficult to notice any real difference in natural light. This of course also means using the right equipment, like an actual spray gun and not a rattle can.

However if you do not have a good bit of time to spend on it then yes, just go and pay someone to do it for a couple hundred bucks. Trying to rush a body part that big and as easy to notice as it is would be a mistake, it would look horrid and you would end up either doing it again or spending the money at that time.

 

[NAVYCHIEF87]

hood paint

i'd paint the hood flat black to cut down on sun reflection

 

[GhostRing]

i'd paint the hood flat black to cut down on sun reflection

Probably going this route with my suddenly peeling Anthracite...

Unless a flat black vinyl wrap would be a smarter/stronger option?

 

[BogdanYZ]

It might just be easier to do a vinyl wrap instead. I've painted wheels with spray cans before and it's worked great and not so great, depending on how much effort I put into it.

The example that turned out great: I painted my 97 Celica's wheels in gunmetal gray. We spent the whole day painting them. We washed them, let them dry, primered them with 2-3 coats, then painted them with 5-6 coats. We waited 30 minutes between each coat to let it dry. It's been 12 years and there hasn't been a single scratch or chip on the paint.

The example that didn't turn out great: I painted my scooter's wheels matte black, but I rushed the job. I washed them super quick, I applied 1 coat of primer and 3 coats of paint. The paint started flaking off within 1 year of doing it.

I'd say try painting it yourself first. It's a fun experience and you'll learn a good amount. If it doesn't turn out great, just get it vinyl wrapped or pay for a professional to paint it.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Chief,
You brought back to life a thread that was dead for nearly 8 years. That's gotta be a record. We never did find out how it all turned out though.
.

 

[Kyngfish]

Uhh

EDIT: Super old thread, but serious question.

Isn't the paint on the 3rd gen single stage?

Unless the rest of the car is base + clear coat - I'd keep it single stage. Looks better and easier to repair for a DIY job.

 

[greeney]

Painted my green hood recently and only used base coat color followed by a wax job. Looks good to me.

 

[Johnny0]

EDIT: Super old thread, but serious question.

Isn't the paint on the 3rd gen single stage?

Unless the rest of the car is base + clear coat - I'd keep it single stage. Looks better and easier to repair for a DIY job.

the solid colors may be single stage. I have millenium Silver and it's base/clear coat

 

[gamefreakgc]

EDIT: Super old thread, but serious question.

Isn't the paint on the 3rd gen single stage?

Unless the rest of the car is base + clear coat - I'd keep it single stage. Looks better and easier to repair for a DIY job.

Some are and some are not it seems. I've yet to ever see a Desert Dune color peel clear coat, so I'm thinking it's single stage. However, the Imperial Jade, Black, Cardinal Red, and other colors are most definitely base + clear. I know that because those colors always have the clear coat peel off unless you babied it for 20 years.

 

[Mark_BC]

Some are and some are not it seems. I've yet to ever see a Desert Dune color peel clear coat, so I'm thinking it's single stage. However, the Imperial Jade, Black, Cardinal Red, and other colors are most definitely base + clear. I know that because those colors always have the clear coat peel off unless you babied it for 20 years.

Same with the white. Mine just went kind of matted where it's UV damaged but it polishes up nice. My desert dune also isn't peeling.

 

[MaineRunna]

I thought they were all 2 stage, but always wondered why the white oxidizes and gets chalky. Make sense that some are and some aren't I guess. I am a professional mechanic, but not a professional painter. All the cars I painted in the old days were done with Dupont Centari acrylic enamel and a pint of gloss hardener. The first time I had to paint something with base coat/clear coat I was scared to death, but found it to be super easy and come out awesome. (no runs, very little orange peel) I own an anthracite metallic 97 (now retired as a parts vehicle and storage shed) and when I bought it it had been rolled so it needed a fender and mirror. I got the same result again, came out perfect with no problems and a good match, still looks good 9 years later. You should be able to do this if you have a good quality, preferably HVLP spray gun. You should be able to buy the paint, thinner, clearcoat and activator at one of your local auto parts stores. Make sure the surface is smooth and clean and try to paint on a day that isn't to hot or humid. (good luck with the humidity in Louisiana) The base coat flash dries to a flat finish so it's hard to screw it up. Just put on 2 or 3 light coats of clear so you don't run it and you should be fine. One of the reasons you might want to buy the paint locally is you can return it if it doesn't match and they'll mix you a new qt for free usually. Another is that the there are different thinners for different temperatures. If you use a fast thinner on a hot day you'll get orange peel so bad it will look like you painted it with a roller. (know that from experience)

 

[LanceKnives]

I plan on doing what the OP OP wanted to do, but with my 6q7 Imperial Jade truck. I bought the paint on Amazon with clear and will buy the best primer I can locally. My hood is still oxidized for now but once it warms up consistently here in TX I plan on giving it a shot. BTW I’m talking spray can base and clear just DA sanding the old crud off before the usual prep sanding and priming.

Will update once I start.

 

[m0ist]

I have some very obvious paint damage from birds crapping on my black paint. After washing it off, the damage has the appearance of the bird poop splatter but the primer underneath is exposed. I guess their poop has some acidity in it and burned through my top coat.

Since its single stage, is it possible to just dab a little black paint on a rag and rub over the damaged area? Then wet sand and polish. Majority of the damage is on my hood and fenders but I would rather not respray if possible.

I figured I would ask before I ruin my paint further by trying this. Might be way off lol (I'm a complete noob at body stuff)