Panhard bar drop vs adj panhard bar

[sschaefer3]

From what I have read, drops and adjustable bars both hit the gas tank.

Hitting the gas tank has to do with rear shock length and absolutely nothing to do with the trac/panhard/lateral rod or what ever you want to call it.

It has everything to do with the length of your rear shocks.

 

[sschaefer3]

That being said, is there a reason why people want to use the longer rod instead of the drop? Seems like a more expensive option with less benefit.

Very wrong statement. Very wrong. Rear end movement is limited by the stock bar bushings only having so much movement in each direction as the membrane stretches, between the shell and center sleeve. By using the stock bar you are holding things back.

The bar I made has poly bushings that have unlimited movement.

So what is the benefit of welding half of a hunk of trailer hitch stock on? Noting as far as I can tell.

A bar with unlimited movement bushings, quite a bit.

 

[sschaefer3]

I just installed the Toytec lift and the adjustable Panhard bar. My rear is definitely cocked more to one side. So, how do I go about adjusting this? Am I supposed to just turn the middle of the bar. The end of the bar on the passenger side up in the frame bracket, I don't see how to adjust that any.

Any, tips on what to do?

Call Toytec it's their stuff they should be more then happy to provide you the support for it.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I just installed the Toytec lift and the adjustable Panhard bar. My rear is definitely cocked more to one side. So, how do I go about adjusting this? Am I supposed to just turn the middle of the bar. The end of the bar on the passenger side up in the frame bracket, I don't see how to adjust that any.

Any, tips on what to do?

You can usually see what direction the axle has to go. With a lift you have to make the bar "longer" which means your axle should be shifted to the passenger's side. I tried doing the jack the rear up by the hitch thing but gave up and just did trial and error until it looked even. I then put a straight edge across the tire and measured the distance to the same point on the body on both sides.

 

[pauldub]

For a road car, it's best if the panhard rod is parallel to the road surface. If the panhard bar is inclined, the rear of the vehicle will be forced up or down by lateral forces when going round a curve or turn.

 

[November Sun]

Call Toytec it's their stuff they should be more then happy to provide you the support for it.

LOL! I called and dude said just eyeball it.

Also, bought SPC UCAs from them and they said that they didn't really didn't know much about them.

 

[sschaefer3]

LOL! I called and dude said just eyeball it.

Also, bought SPC UCAs from them and they said that they didn't really didn't know much about them.

Well that is too bad.

 

[JayRolla]

LOL! I called and dude said just eyeball it.

Also, bought SPC UCAs from them and they said that they didn't really didn't know much about them.

Wow! If you want the most clearance up front at the pinch weld, set the SPC arms to the G setting. Bring the truck to a good alignment shop. Tell them you have an adjustable rear trac bar that needs adjusted. Also tell them to get back as much caster as possible with the LCA bolts. They should beable to get about 1.5-2* caster even with the SPC's at setting G.

 

[poopypants]

Very wrong statement. Very wrong. Rear end movement is limited by the stock bar bushings only having so much movement in each direction as the membrane stretches, between the shell and center sleeve. By using the stock bar you are holding things back.

The bar I made has poly bushings that have unlimited movement.

So what is the benefit of welding half of a hunk of trailer hitch stock on? Noting as far as I can tell.

A bar with unlimited movement bushings, quite a bit.

wow. What a load of crap.

 

[kolelt]

I don’t have a adjustable panhard and my driveshift still hits my gas tank on full flex.

 

[Coward]

The answer could be any of your 3 options. Plenty of guys use the stock bar with a lift without complaint. Your axle is slightly off center but you may not notice. Others (me included) use the SS bar. It is adjustable but not like an OTRE. The threads are the same on both sides so you must remove one end of the bar to adjust. And that means 1/2 turn adjustments only. But that's close enough I guess. The bar only will re-center your axle. Your driveshaft may or may not hit your gas tank skid but that's not the point of the bar. The panhard drop and lift (PCK [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION]) will get the bar back to factory level the way Toyota designed it. While some people may not notice difference, nearly everyone who has installed the kit said it did (me included).

My advice having tried all 3, is to keep your factory bar (if the bushings are good) and get the PCK installed.