Installed Bilstein 5100s and FJ coils tonight, but during the reassembly, the panhard bolt started crossthreaded. I stopped turning before much damage was done, but now I need a tap and die to clean up the threads in the axle and try to save the panhard bolt. Anyone have the specs on the bolt handy?
Panhard bolt size?
- Thread starter Cloudrnnr
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Yep, really was the panhard rod, where it attaches to the axle on the driver's side. I may not have had to release it, but I felt it would make the axle drop easier for getting the FJ springs in place. Probably didn't need it in hindsight. Yes, I should have started the bolt by hand, I also should have cleaned up the threads before I started. Unfortunately, I didn't, forced it instead of getting the alignment perfect, and now I need to try to fix it. Any help would be most appreciated.
jdkilroy
New member
the bolt is a 13mm/1.5
Its a pretty hard bolt (11) so what you may actually be dealing with is that the panhard rod bushing sleeve is not lined up with the front hole leading into the nut that's welded to the front side. You want to be sure that the hole is completely lined up all the way through before attempting to pass that bolt. If it is, you should be able to start the bolt by hand.
If its not.... then you will need to coax the axle to L or R to make the holes line up. (I use a pipe clamp to adjust as needed but a ratchet strap can work as well) May need to remove the driver rear wheel to get better access.
In this case, pipe clamp set up to move axle to the right
That bolt gets torqued to 100 ft-lbs and recheck it after about 500 miles.
Not trying to be patronizing, just not sure what your level of knowledge is.
Best of luck.
Its a pretty hard bolt (11) so what you may actually be dealing with is that the panhard rod bushing sleeve is not lined up with the front hole leading into the nut that's welded to the front side. You want to be sure that the hole is completely lined up all the way through before attempting to pass that bolt. If it is, you should be able to start the bolt by hand.
If its not.... then you will need to coax the axle to L or R to make the holes line up. (I use a pipe clamp to adjust as needed but a ratchet strap can work as well) May need to remove the driver rear wheel to get better access.
In this case, pipe clamp set up to move axle to the right
That bolt gets torqued to 100 ft-lbs and recheck it after about 500 miles.
Not trying to be patronizing, just not sure what your level of knowledge is.
Best of luck.
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Jon,
Thanks much for the info. Having been an aviator and flight instructor for 25 years, I never worry about patronizing--any knowledge is good. I knew very well I should have lined it up better than I did before I started it, but thought a little tap would get it started fine. That's what I get for not quitting when I was tired and finishing in the morning.
Jim
Thanks much for the info. Having been an aviator and flight instructor for 25 years, I never worry about patronizing--any knowledge is good. I knew very well I should have lined it up better than I did before I started it, but thought a little tap would get it started fine. That's what I get for not quitting when I was tired and finishing in the morning.
Jim
