Panhard drop

Whackmaster

Whackmaster

New member
I just installed 891's and now the axle is shifted over to the passenger side..I was thinking about getting a weld on panhard drop from Toytec. After looking under my Runner I am having a hard time visualizing how this would weld on. If anyone that has done this have pics I would appreciate if you would post them so I can see how to do this... Thanks.......
 
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Here is mine right after welding and painting.
100_0581.jpg~original


And yes, it will return the axle and panhard to stock geometry. fixing the axle position.
 
I have the ToyTec one too. I also cut a tube to keep from crushing the top bolt mount. (the top bolt goes thru it). I also cut and welded on a brace. The welds can fail when wheeling hard.
Brace3.jpg~original

(the welds are a lot better than they look)
Brace2.jpg~original
 
what are the con's of not doing a panhard bar drop after a 3'' lift? i notice my axle is shifted maybe about quarter inch after my 7 wraps
 
I'm planning on getting 890's, is that shift a bad thing? Can it be easily fixed and at a cheap cost?
 
bak3rme said:
what are the con's of not doing a panhard bar drop after a 3'' lift? i notice my axle is shifted maybe about quarter inch after my 7 wraps
Click to expand...
^Good question... not that I can answer it.
I notice that mine is out maybe a .25" too. What is the best panhard bar to go with aftermarket?
Seems like a lot of money just to get and extra 3/8" of bar to correct the axle.
I really dont think that Im gonna do mine till it breaks.
You can spend so much $$$ on these things it is ridiculous, lift, tires, sliders, bumpers, winch, sway bar discos, pan-hard bar...
What are the consequences if you break it on the trail? Does it have to be replace there or can you drive out if their are by-passes?
 
DeTwizzle said:
^Good question... not that I can answer it.
I notice that mine is out maybe a .25" too. What is the best panhard bar to go with aftermarket?
Seems like a lot of money just to get and extra 3/8" of bar to correct the axle.
I really dont think that Im gonna do mine till it breaks.
You can spend so much $$$ on these things it is ridiculous, lift, tires, sliders, bumpers, winch, sway bar discos, pan-hard bar...
What are the consequences if you break it on the trail? Does it have to be replace there or can you drive out if their are by-passes?
Click to expand...

What you think will break? The panhard bar will not break.

Sonoran offers an adjustable bar to help re-center the axle. This is a good product because it can suit any amount of lift. The only down side is the amount of lateral axle movement during full travel is uneven. Probably not noticable for normal driving or wheeling, but could have an effect on handling and bump steer conditions at high speed.
The drop braket is a nice cheap option, but not perfect. It gets the axel close (and often exactly) back to center, however this lowers the roll center of the vehicle which increase body roll when turnring. Again, not a big deal, but may be noticable to some.

For me, the ideal solution would be a lift block to raise the axle end of the panhard bar back up to the perfect position. The perfect position is when the axle can be exactly half way between full compression and full extension, and tthe panhard sits horizontal. This would ensure that axle shift is even and handling characterists are the best they can be. I would prefer a higher roll center on my 4Runner, It would leep the vehicle more stable on rough terrain. I'm working on a lift block at the moment.
 
Thanks for all the replys and pics...I thought that was the way it went but I like to be sure before I order....Thanks again...........
 
Id also like to know what the cons are if you dont install a panhard on a lifted runner. Im about to install some 8 wraps and have been debating if I really need a panhard.
 
What the heck is a "roll center"?

The drop gets the axle centered and the PHB close to factory level.

Without a PHB drop... When the suspension compresses on the road, the axle will arc toward the drivers side and the rear of the vehicle will move toward the pass side.

Some can feel the rear swim. When I had my 890 I did not have a PHB drop. When I went to my 891 I added the drop. I could definitely feel a difference. With the drop the rear moves mostly in a straight up and down motion ( slight arc but it is a centered arc).
 
VA07 said:
Here is a video that explains it very well. A "low" or negative roll center leads to a vehicle that is very "tippy". A "higher" or more neutral roll center leads to a vehicle being more stable around corners or in off camber situations, but sometimes sacrifices other suspension comforts.

Race Car Tuning - From Racing Simulators to Formula 1
Click to expand...

That makes sense but how does the position of a PHB that is level make a difference? (lowered from the frame or raised from the axle) It's doing the same thing.
 
Yes, it is doing the same thing as far as axle location, but it does it from a different location. It's quite complicated and difficult to visualize. It works as a system with the other suspension components.
Picture an imaginary line going from front to back down the middle of the car. When the car corners and the body rolls, it rolls around this line, as if the line is the center of rotation. This is the roll axis. The height of the roll axis from the ground is important because it directly effects how much roll occurs. The panhard bar will determine exactly where the axis is at the rear. Front suspension parts will determine where the axis is at the front. So you can see the axis may not be horizontal meaning that the rear might roll more or less than the front.
Does that make sense?
 
Not really. I am making an FDM sample first just to confirm the dimensions, probably in the next few weeks when the machine is available.
 
Anyone else have some pictures of their own hard drop???

I'm curious to see what others have done so I can contemplate my own!
 
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