Parasitic draw draining the battery/multi meter assist needed

[zgensler31]

So this electrical crap has been driving me crazy the last few weeks.

So battery got wrecked, because the lights were staying on despite the switch being off, even coming back on in the middle of the night...replaced the battery and discovered the issue. Windshield was leaking water in, which was getting on the fuse block. This totally wrecked the block and caused multiple shorts...

Ended up replacing the fuse block and all of the effected plugs with stuff i picked up from a part out. Pain in the ass. I think i went through like 60 crimp connectors repairing that harness.
All is well right, everything works in and outside the truck. Lights are no longer coming on or staying on. Temporarily fixed the leak so waters not getting in. But two weeks later the truck wont start. Batteriez not dead-dead. Lights, radio, etc still working fine. But wont turn the starter. Quick jump and shes back up and running. Fine for a few days. Then the same. So i grab a multimeter and start checking for a parasite.

I know just emough of electrical systems to get myself in trouble. Lol
So thats where i need some help fellas. The base amperage draw while the truck is off and nothing powered on is 33.2 (milliamps?)

After pulling fuses, discovered the OBD circuit was the main culprit, and after unplugging my ultra guage, that it was the main culprit. This reduced the amerage draw to 12.7 (milliamps?)

Then pulling the dome circuit fuse reduces it to 4.1 (milliamps?)

And then pulling the interior power fuse, the pink 30amp, it drops to 1.5 (milliamps?)

Obviously somethings up with my ultra gauge, so its probably going to get replaced soon. The rest i have no idea if there are a problem with the curcuit or if they are within the standard.

Any help would be very much apppreciated guys. This is perhaps the first time that selling the truck has come to my mind.

 

[SaulG]

1. Use an ammeter to measure the amp draw of this system. Start the vehicle and run all the accessories and then shut them off. Allow the vehicle to sit for 1/2 hour and then attach the ammeter lead to the battery post and then to the battery cable. Remove the cable and check the amp draw. Less than 50 milliamps is acceptable with less than 20 being normal.

2. Remove one fuse at a time to check to see which circuit contains the draw. Once the fuse circuit is found, check each wire terminal that comes out of the fuse box from the affected fuse. On these vehicles, the dome fuse has the draw.

3. Check each component that the dome fuse is involved with.

Is battery fully charged and Alternator maintaining at IDLE..???
Have seen alternator fail to charge at times .. so your always at a deficit

 

[RonJR]

I suspect you're chasing the wrong problem. Intermittent starting problems while lights and radio continue to work are symptomatic of a bad connection to the starter, not a drained battery. If the lights go out when you hit the starter, the bad connection is likely right at the battery. Pull the cables off and clean the insides of the cable clamps and the battery terminal until bright metal is showing. Dull gray isn't good. Reassemble and tighten securely.

If that doesn't fix it, follow this procedure the next time the vehicle fails to start.
- Put your multimeter directly across the battery terminals, not on the cables or connectors. You should measure > 12 volts.
- Now have someone hit the starter while you watch the meter. If the battery voltage drops below 10V, you have a discharged or bad battery. If it stays above 12V and the starter doesn't turn you have bad connection to the starter.
- To find the bad connection, keep moving the positive probe of the multimeter toward the starter until you find a spot where the voltage drops significantly when your assistant engages the starter. That will indicate you've moved across the bad connection. All the while keep the negative probe of the multimeter on the negative terminal of the battery.
- If you don't find the voltage drop by moving the positive probe, repeat the process by placing the positive probe on the positive battery terminal, and move the negative probe progressively along the grounding cable toward the engine block until you find the point of voltage drop. That will be your bad ground connection.

 

[zgensler31]

2. Remove one fuse at a time to check to see which circuit contains the draw. Once the fuse circuit is found, check each wire terminal that comes out of the fuse box from the affected fuse. On these vehicles, the dome fuse has the draw.

3. Check each component that the dome fuse is involved with.

Is battery fully charged and Alternator maintaining at IDLE..???
Have seen alternator fail to charge at times .. so your always at a deficit

Thanks for the reply man.
That's the process I went through. Charged it fully and then ran the meter inline between the negative post and terminal. The results are in the original post.

The ultra guage and meter both showed the alternator putting out over 13 volts at idle and 14.5+ at driving rpm.

Am I not reading the meter right? Is it 33.2 amps and not milliamps? If not that would be in the acceptable range of <50 correct?

 

[zgensler31]

I suspect you're chasing the wrong problem. Intermittent starting problems while lights and radio continue to work are symptomatic of a bad connection to the starter, not a drained battery. If the lights go out when you hit the starter, the bad connection is likely right at the battery. Pull the cables off and clean the insides of the cable clamps and the battery terminal until bright metal is showing. Dull gray isn't good. Reassemble and tighten securely.

If that doesn't fix it, follow this procedure the next time the vehicle fails to start.
- Put your multimeter directly across the battery terminals, not on the cables or connectors. You should measure > 12 volts.
- Now have someone hit the starter while you watch the meter. If the battery voltage drops below 10V, you have a discharged or bad battery. If it stays above 12V and the starter doesn't turn you have bad connection to the starter.
- To find the bad connection, keep moving the positive probe of the multimeter toward the starter until you find a spot where the voltage drops significantly when your assistant engages the starter. That will indicate you've moved across the bad connection. All the while keep the negative probe of the multimeter on the negative terminal of the battery.
- If you don't find the voltage drop by moving the positive probe, repeat the process by placing the positive probe on the positive battery terminal, and move the negative probe progressively along the grounding cable toward the engine block until you find the point of voltage drop. That will be your bad ground connection.

Appreciate the response man. I had that exact situation occur before, when i first bought it, and its definitely got a solid connection. Terminals are totally clean and hitting the starter didnt effect anything else. The battery was simply drained a bit too low to turn the starter.



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[TheDurk]

Zach, I can't read the scale number on your meter but 33.2 ma is really all it could be which is absolutely normal. 33.2 amps would drain your battery in two hours max. So I don't think you have a parasitic draw.

How old is that battery? It may be just getting weak. I would recommend a load test or swapping with a different battery if you have one available. What was the voltage at battery, key off, when it won't start? And then after charge, but reading after running high beams for 30 seconds?

You should also check your charging system. What are your volts at the battery with engine running? Then with high beams and heater blower on high?

 

[IBallEngineer]

So this electrical crap has been driving me crazy the last few weeks.






All is well right, everything works in and outside the truck. Lights are no longer coming on or staying on. Temporarily fixed the leak so waters not getting in. But two weeks later the truck wont start. Batteriez not dead-dead. Lights, radio, etc still working fine. But wont turn the starter. Quick jump and shes back up and running. Fine for a few days. Then the same. So i grab a multimeter and start checking for a parasite.

I know just emough of electrical systems to get myself in trouble. Lol
So thats where i need some help fellas. The base amperage draw while the truck is off and nothing powered on is 33.2 (milliamps?)



After pulling fuses, discovered the OBD circuit was the main culprit, and after unplugging my ultra guage, that it was the main culprit. This reduced the amerage draw to 12.7 (milliamps?)



Then pulling the dome circuit fuse reduces it to 4.1 (milliamps?)


And then pulling the interior power fuse, the pink 30amp, it drops to 1.5 (milliamps?)



Obviiusly somethings up with my ultra gauge, so its probably going to get replaced soon. The rest i have no idea if there are a problem with the curcuit or if they are within the standard.

Any help would be very much apppreciated guys. This is perhaps the first time that selling the truck has come to my mind.

OK so 32 milliamps is NOTHING. That is NOT your problem. Dollars to donuts it's a battery cable issue, as someone already mentioned. I know you said you got a solid connection, but that doesn't mean anything unless you verify the voltage, did I mention VERIFY?

OK, so El Durko jumped on before I could finish, DO WHAT HE SAYS! hehe:gun4:

 

[IBallEngineer]

When the failure materializes, check battery voltage(AT the battery) and then on the cables, then at the fuse block and at the starter!opcorn:

 

[zgensler31]

Zach, I can't read the scale number on your meter but 33.2 ma is really all it could be which is absolutely normal. 33.2 amps would drain your battery in two hours max. So I don't think you have a parasitic draw.

How old is that battery? It may be just getting weak. I would recommend a load test or swapping with a different battery if you have one available. What was the voltage at battery, key off, when it won't start? And then after charge, but reading after running high beams for 30 seconds?

You should also check your charging system. What are your volts at the battery with engine running? Then with high beams and heater blower on high?

The durk coming through for me again. Thanks man.
I was on the 200 mA scale for anyone that cant see in the photo.

The battery is literally 2 weeks old. Bought it new when i fixed the leak and replaced the fuse block, as the short had shot my old one.

Unfortunately i overloaded the meter, (have i mentioned im a newb? Lol) and need to pick up a fuse for it. So ill have to get those readings tomorrow after work. But its encouraging to hear that it might actually be a connection/charging issue.

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[zgensler31]

When the failure materializes, check battery voltage(AT the battery) and then on the cables, then at the fuse block and at the starter!opcorn:

Thanks for the help man. Just so im clear, your referring to the underhood fuse block.

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[IBallEngineer]

Thanks for the help man. Just so im clear, your referring to the underhood fuse block.

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That is correct! Not to say with the history you can't have a problem at the Body ECU, but we need to check the easy things first! Did you know this?

El Durko's Rule of Thumb # 7

ALWAYS, check the easy things first.

eep:

 

[zgensler31]

That is correct! Not to say with the history you can't have a problem at the Body ECU, but we need to check the easy things first! Did you know this?

El Durko's Rule of Thumb # 7

ALWAYS, check the easy things first.

eep:

Can't say that I did, but I probably should familiarize myself with them, since he's the one that always figures out my electrical problems. Lol

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[19963.4lsr5]

If your battery and charging system is up to snuff then you could Check for 12v on the little wire of the starter with the key in start. If it's not there there is a relay in the under hood junction box. It's purple if it's the OEM relay. See if you can feel it klick. Durk can post up the starter circuit. There is a neutral safety switch if you are a auto trans, or a clutch pushed switch if you are a manual.

If you have 12v on the small wire plug it back in and listen for a klick on the starter solenoid. If you hear a klick at the starter read the voltage on the big wire while trying to start. If the voltage on the big wire stays at battery voltage when the solenoid klicks on the starter it's rebuild or replace the starter contacts time. If voltage goes to 0 or really low it's still a bad connection between the battery post and the starter. Getting to the starter connections is not fun.


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[catrains]

the problem you have is the windshield leaking. then all those corroded connectors must be replaced ... using some push on connectors will work if you use the proper size to handle the current flow.

less than 100MA on shutdown should be good. 30MA and less is better. after those corroded wires/connectors replaced probably less drain.

rust hole under the windshield edge is common when the OEM was replaced glass guys scrape the paint OFF..

 

[zgensler31]

the problem you have is the windshield leaking. then all those corroded connectors must be replaced ... using some push on connectors will work if you use the proper size to handle the current flow.

less than 100MA on shutdown should be good. 30MA and less is better. after those corroded wires/connectors replaced probably less drain.

rust hole under the windshield edge is common when the OEM was replaced glass guys scrape the paint OFF..

Thats exactly what happened with the windshield. It will be getting pulled, rust repaired, and replaced this summer when i have more time and money to take care it. For now, some high quality silicone has got it sealed up.

Thanks for the help man.

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[zgensler31]

If your battery and charging system is up to snuff then you could Check for 12v on the little wire of the starter with the key in start. If it's not there there is a relay in the under hood junction box. It's purple if it's the OEM relay. See if you can feel it klick. Durk can post up the starter circuit. There is a neutral safety switch if you are a auto trans, or a clutch pushed switch if you are a manual.

If you have 12v on the small wire plug it back in and listen for a klick on the starter solenoid. If you hear a klick at the starter read the voltage on the big wire while trying to start. If the voltage on the big wire stays at battery voltage when the solenoid klicks on the starter it's rebuild or replace the starter contacts time. If voltage goes to 0 or really low it's still a bad connection between the battery post and the starter. Getting to the starter connections is not fun.


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Seems like a very logical step by step. Ill go through it tomorrow whenni get the fuse for my multimeter and can check the charging system.

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[TheDurk]

Seems like a very logical step by step. Ill go through it tomorrow whenni get the fuse for my multimeter and can check the charging system.

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Normally, the voltage circuits don't go out when the fuse blows, just the amperage circuits, in case you want to get started.

Not gonna post the EWDs for Zach, because I got those years FROM HIM!

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Having a drawing to follow which I'm not set up to do helps. (After you figure out how to read them) but big wire and little wire on the starter should be easy to follow.

With the drawing you would be able to pull the starter relay and put power directly on the little wire of the starter from the relay base. Which bypasses the ignition switch and everything else In between. (Neutral safety switch or clutch switch etc....) have fun.


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[catrains]

Thats exactly what happened with the windshield. It will be getting pulled, rust repaired, and replaced this summer when i have more time and money to take care it. For now, some high quality silicone has got it sealed up.

Thanks for the help man.

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my 1996 sedan had some rust blisters on the roof black paint. so I told the body shop to remove both front rear windshields well sure as sh*t I did have a small rust hole in the middle of the top front windshield and the rear had some rust but no holes. all painted then the front windshield replaced . the rear was good no pits and not a visibility issue.

over time the flex expansion from hot cold does the damage then the rust esp. black vehicles!!!

silicone sealer I use is the dow 795... comes in all colors its a commercial grade sealer not adhesive.

 

[zgensler31]

Anyone that is a little more familiar with multimeter usage. Can you confirm that in the photos originally posted, and in the one I'll throw on here that the value is in milliamps and not amps.

I've popped 3 fuses in my meter now, all rated at 500 mA. Yet the peak reading I've gotten appears to be 40ish mA.

Anybody know what might be going on?

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