parking brake stuck

[freshley]

I took apart my rear brakes as my parking brake didn't seem to be working right and noticed that the lever mechanism was seized up. The part that goes through the backing plate and acts like a lever to engage the brakes. What does everyone use to lube these up? I got the one side moving again but I can tell that it won't take much for it to lock up again. The part I'm talking about it the parking brake bellcrank according to the book. It goes through the backing plate in the rear of the drum housing.

 

[freshley]

Well,
Since no one answered my post, I thought I'd let everyone know what I did. On both sides the mechanism was locked up but was a lot worse on the drivers side. There are 2 bolts under the one brake shoe that holds this mechanism in place. Once these are removed there are also 2 springs that need to be disconnected. It is just a simple lever mechanism. Once it was out of the car, I could really see what the problem was. There was a lot of salt buildup and tons of corrosion. Sprayed some penetrating oil on it and let it sit for a little while. A few smacks with a mallet got it moving again then more penetrating oil. I just kept moving it back and forth with the penetrating oil until it loosened up and some of the rust started braking off. After a while it seemed pretty good so I cleaned it up and re-installed it. After it was installed, I sprayed a bunch of white lithium grease in there and I'm hoping that it shouldn't lock up like that again. It seems to be moving freely, but only time will tell for how long.

 

[jreask]

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/attachments/brakes/38092d1231601230-sticking-parking-brake-bellcranks-toyota-truck-park-brake-bellcrank-repair.pdf

TRY THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[freshley]

Thanks for that write-up! I have it all together now so I'm hoping it will hold up for a while but it's nice to know what to do in the future if they start acting up again!

 

[Jason B]

I have a rear axel seal leak on left side and today the left wheel seized up. Tried everything to break it loose by putting car in 4wd and going from drive to reverse. It just drags the left locked wheel.

Any idea for a quick way to release it? Had to leave the truck at a friends house and couldn't drive it home. Really don't want to call a tow truck if I can find a way to get it loose?

 

[NHRunner]

I have a rear axel seal leak on left side and today the left wheel seized up. Tried everything to break it loose by putting car in 4wd and going from drive to reverse. It just drags the left locked wheel.

Any idea for a quick way to release it? Had to leave the truck at a friends house and couldn't drive it home. Really don't want to call a tow truck if I can find a way to get it loose?

Sounds to me like you'll need to start by pulling the drum to make sure the brake cylinders and bellcranks are moving correctly. You'll probably need the correct bolts to press off the drum if the shoes are actually engaged.

 

[02SE]

I have a rear axel seal leak on left side and today the left wheel seized up. Tried everything to break it loose by putting car in 4wd and going from drive to reverse. It just drags the left locked wheel.

Any idea for a quick way to release it? Had to leave the truck at a friends house and couldn't drive it home. Really don't want to call a tow truck if I can find a way to get it loose?

The gear oil leaking onto the shoes, causes them to swell. So you need to adjust the brake shoes away from the drum, so the drum can turn again.

There's a rubber plug on the backing plate, which you remove, to access the adjuster.

Use one flat blade screwdriver to hold down the locking tab, and another to back the adjuster off.

 

[D Farms]

locker? use the locker. otherwise try arresting the non moving wheel with a tow strap, this will transfer power to the other side breaking the wheel free. realistically you will need to redo your bearing anyways so you might as well get it out of the way. alternatively you could find a new axle and swap it in, or swap in just the side thats seized.

 

[TheDurk]

The gear oil leaking onto the shoes, causes them to swell. So you need to adjust the brake shoes away from the drum, so the drum can turn again.

There's a rubber plug on the backing plate, which you remove, to access the adjuster.

Use one flat blade screwdriver to hold down the locking tab, and another to back the adjuster off.

Saved me writing a post.

 

[Jason B]

The gear oil leaking onto the shoes, causes them to swell. So you need to adjust the brake shoes away from the drum, so the drum can turn again.

There's a rubber plug on the backing plate, which you remove, to access the adjuster.

Use one flat blade screwdriver to hold down the locking tab, and another to back the adjuster off.

Thanks. I'm going back in an hour and will look for it.

locker? use the locker. otherwise try arresting the non moving wheel with a tow strap, this will transfer power to the other side breaking the wheel free. realistically you will need to redo your bearing anyways so you might as well get it out of the way. alternatively you could find a new axle and swap it in, or swap in just the side thats seized.

I don't have a locker,

Good idea on the tow strap, or I think I have a wood wedge I could stick on the opposite tire... Something like this

http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/W168/chocked wheels.JPG

I know the rear pads seized to the drum. My other buddy was said I may need to remove the wheel and smack the drum with a rubber maul a bit light release it. Don't have a jack on me yet of course.

 

[02SE]

Keep in mind that adjusting the brake shoes away from the drum, is only to let the wheel turn again.

You still need to take it to a reputable shop to replace the axle seal, the gear oil contaminated brake shoes, and most likely the wheel bearing.

 

[Jason B]

So, I headed back today, it was much warmer outside than last night... Started it, put it into drive and it broke loose instantly! Got lucky. Not just need to find the time to get it fixed. I swear the warmer weather must help.