Parts needed to replace front wheel bearing...

[LittleCaesar]

my friend's younger brother has a 2000 4wd 4runner with a bad front right bearing. Over the Xmas holidays, I am going to help my friend and his brother replace it (except pressing the bearing in and out, which a local ATL indy shop will do).

I would say he needs:

bearing
two seals
spacer
upper BJ while the knuckle is out
4 new LBJ bolts to the knuckle

anything else?

 

[Singtoe]

that bearing is crazy expensive. You will need to press in the upper ball joint too.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Gotcha with the UBJ.

I found the bearing for $55, two seals for $45, and the spacer for $14. The UBJ is $30.

Anything else in there?

 

[1985taylor1925]

Is this bearing part of the hub assembly?

 

[Singtoe]

Gotcha with the UBJ.

I found the bearing for $55, two seals for $45, and the spacer for $14. The UBJ is $30.

Anything else in there?

If you want to save money, skip the seals. The bearings are sealed anyway and if you pull the seals off nicely, they will go back on clean.

You don't need the space at all. re use the old one. You will need a puller for the UBJ as the BFH can cause damage to the upper control arm.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Thanks Singtoe.

I will not be the one doling out the green for this project, so the more the merrier as far as I care. Having never done this before, I did not want to get down the line, only to find I overlooked some small but critical $3 part.

Thanks for the heads up if the BFH is needed for the removal of the UBJ. I hope I don't have to use it.

 

[Whackmaster]

Make sure they don't mess up the big c-clips that are on the outside of the bearing. Those c-clips are dealer items and cost about $13 each.

 

[JWaldz]

Bump.. Gathering my parts for this job. Only doing driver side. Can I get away with just the wheel bearing or would it be smart to get a new seal and c clip just in case? Also what about the ABS ring?

 

[blizz86]

Bump.. Gathering my parts for this job. Only doing driver side. Can I get away with just the wheel bearing or would it be smart to get a new seal and c clip just in case? Also what about the ABS ring?

I can't really help there but its always better to overbuy the first time and then return instead of needing to make trips while you're doing the job.

 

[Singtoe]

My advise from a year ago is still good. Just the bearing. Reuse everything else.

the dust seals are crazy expensive. The bearing is sealed anyway. I would replace the seal only if they were chewed up. ymmv

 

[JWaldz]

I found a good parts diagram that shows everything and in order of how it's put together. I should have reiterated that my plan is to reuse everything but the bearing. That's the goal anyways. I wanted the parts list mainly so I can have everything I'd need for the whole job, which I have now (aside from the toner ring). The dealership calls it a "skid control".

For the future, for someone gathering parts like I was here's a parts list. Remember, this is only for the driver (left) side. Some parts may be universal for both sides.

Bearing: 90369-54002
ABS "Skid Control" Ring: 43515-35010
Inner "Type D Oil" Seal: 90316-69001
Outer "Type V Oil" Seal: 90312-95001
"Hole Snap" Ring: 90521-99114

 

[LittleCaesar]

You can reuse the ABS exciter ring, at least that is what I did for this job (granted it was not me pressing the bearing out and in).

As Singtoe said, the seals can be reused as well, but given that we had the seals at hand, the new ones were used. I cannot remember their cost, but it wasn't crazy crazy money for them, yet not $2.

I remember that pressing the UBJ was the biggest PITA due to neither me nor the machinist having the right size sleeve at hand.

 

[JWaldz]

One seal was a decent price while the other seal was like 60 bucks!! Thankfully I get a discount at my dealership. I'm going to try and not use them but wanted to have them in hand just in case.