Parts of cluster turn off randomly

Hi,

On my daily driver runner parts of my cluster turn off at random. The temperature guage, and seatbelt light, etc. Tapping it usually brings them back on. Anyway know off the top of their head the fix for this?

Here's a video of it happening

I assume I'm going to have to remove the cluster and inspect it.. just curious if anyones dealt with and fixed this issue.

Thanks
 
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I don't have this issue, but recently replaced my printed circuit board. I went with a used cluster, stripped it down for the board. Check Amayama with your vin, under meter 8301 towards the bottom of page. Might still be available new.

Tip if you remove your cluster. Place a towel over all the metal bits of the steering column. The printed board also runs along the bottom of the cluster. One wrong move and you can cut or short the printed circuit board. Ask me how I know lol.
 
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I don't have this issue, but recently replaced my printed circuit board. I went with a used cluster, stripped it down for the board. Check Amayama with your vin, under meter 8301 towards the bottom of page. Might still be available new.

Tip if you remove your cluster. Place a towel over all the metal bits of the steering column. The printed board also runs along the bottom of the cluster. One wrong move and you can cut or short the printed circuit board. Ask me how I know lol.

Does this one look right?
Platemetercircuit.jpg

Also $300 for the clock is wild :laugh:
 

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There was a guy on ebay rebuilding the old toyota dash clocks. I dont know if anyone out there is rebuilding those now..
 
There was a guy on ebay rebuilding the old toyota dash clocks. I dont know if anyone out there is rebuilding those now..
It is mostly just a corrosion issue on the connector to the PCB. That is handled by some springs - no solder or anything. This can be fixed with a cleaning or directly (carefully!) soldering the pins.

The cluster issues are different and are generally broken traces on the flex PCB. I had to replace mine years ago... my brake lights, turn signals and reverse lights all got linked together (missing ground on the flex board).

-Charlie
 
It is mostly just a corrosion issue on the connector to the PCB. That is handled by some springs - no solder or anything. This can be fixed with a cleaning or directly (carefully!) soldering the pins.

The cluster issues are different and are generally broken traces on the flex PCB. I had to replace mine years ago... my brake lights, turn signals and reverse lights all got linked together (missing ground on the flex board).

-Charlie

Interesting.. Mostly we dont have pcb issues here.. Maybe that is it doesnt get as hot here.. I haven't had a pcb fail on any Toyota yet and lots of my rigs have the age on them too. Interesting indeed. :-)
 
can this also cause some of the cluster lights to flicker on and off. The one above my fuel gauge goes out, then comes back on and can be days for either one
 
can this also cause some of the cluster lights to flicker on and off. The one above my fuel gauge goes out, then comes back on and can be days for either one
Possibly, though I'd suspect the holder or bulb connections if it was just one of the backlight bulbs.

-Charlie
 
can this also cause some of the cluster lights to flicker on and off. The one above my fuel gauge goes out, then comes back on and can be days for either one

I have seen old bulbs flicker when the bulbs are burning out. The bulb has a slight break in the filament and can flicker or go off and on with bumps..:-)
 
So yesterday I was at a junkyard to grab some interior stuff I'm missing, and thought hey, I'll grab one of these PCB's for funsies. The guy didn't know what it is so he didn't charge me for it.

I'm not sure about what it came off of either as the cluster was just on the ground inbetween a few 4runners, but they sure look ALMOST the same. Any reason I shouldn't just throw it on and hope for the best?


On truck:
clusterfuk1.jpg

From Junkyard:
clusterfuk2.jpg

Since clocks were brought up, I also fixed my clock, one of the little black things on the back of it had a broken joint. I didn't even use any tin, just heated it up with the iron and it started working again.

clockrep.png
 

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It looks similar, but there are some differences. Some of the jumpers are in a different location. I'd just triple check to make sure it's the same. If it's not I'd probably pass on it and find one from your exact year and trim level.
 
I've been having a really hard time finding that exact flex pcb so far. Each one I find is an exact match for the one I already showed from the junkyard.

Just saw a guy on marketplace selling one out of his 96 manual 3.4 and its the same 975 759917-982 that I got out of the automatic guage cluster from the yard. Mine is a 98 manual 3.4

When I first made this post I did go straight to amayama meters section as suggested, its only 30 bucks + shipping so roughly 50. After I placed the order they got back to me and said that part is no longer manufactured. Ever since then I haven't even been able to add it to my cart.

If I try that other model PCB and it doesnt work whats the worst that can happen? blow a fuse? could I kill my ECM or something catastrophic? hah. I'm crap with electronics so thanks for input guys.
 
'98, especially on the auto side is an odd-man out... It is the only year with the gear indicators on the cluster as LEDs instead of down at the bottom. Much less of a worry with a manual, since your truck won't use those connections.

As 2TH4IST already said, trace all those connections and make sure they match. They might be routed differently but connected the same...

At the very least, make sure the connections to the tach, speedo, fuel and temp gauges match. The rest of the connections are bulbs and won't be damaged by a wrong connection.

-Charlie
 

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