4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
[MENTION=707800]Sig916[/MENTION] Diggin your 4th gen. Great looking truck! Who makes that bumper?
Pearl's mod/build LT rear/DK +3.5 LT/Custom Baja Bumper/Thorley Headers/Manual T-case
- Thread starter 4RunnerAquasport
- Start date
Relentlessfabrication.com
I've read somewhere about might need new motor mounts because of sag... is the spacers a must? Also, I was told that on 4th gen we will need to cut/mod the MM bracket to clear the shaft and weld a extended sleeve for the shaft?
Taking all the notes I can before I pulling the trigger on this.
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
I bought new MMs, and yea the spacers are needed imo, not much room in there.
Marlin Crawler states in his instructions that most 4th gens have a little sag, so the new MMs are probably a good idea.
The steering shaft u-joint on my rig was pretty sloppy, so I bought a new one.
During several test fits, it looks to me like the MM bracket will need to be cut a little to clear the steering shaft.
I have a 1" body lift, so this may be a little different than other rigs in regards to clearance on that bracket.
Pretty sure the extension being welded in was on Tacoma World for fitting a modified Tundra rack, but don't know if its common w the 200 rack or 4Runner/FJs.
I won't know if I need an extension welded in for a couple more weeks due to my work schedule unfortunately.
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Found some racing seats w harnesses. Dirty and Sun faded, but Cheap. Cushions were hardly sat in and still like brand new, they just been sitting for awhile. Just scrubbed them down w some fabric cleaner and a stiff brush. Dye them back to flat black and they should look OK.
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4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Mocked up my new PS resevoir today. Repurposed the old res brackets and welded the hose clamp bracket to one side and it should hold in there pretty well.
Will have twice as much fluid for the 200 rack....well if I ever finish up and fix my tie rod mistake.
Will have twice as much fluid for the 200 rack....well if I ever finish up and fix my tie rod mistake.
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Cool keep us update.. I pretty much got everything figured out besides the steering shaft.. I have decided to upgrade my TC long travel and go with RCLT-HD. Will be posted FS once the marlin goes in. Practically new less than 5k mile.
I'm hoping to make final test-fits on the steering shaft/motor mount this weekend on my swap so I'll be able to let you know what it looks like. I'm also on a 1 or 1.5" body lift so there could be a bit of a difference there for those not with the body lift, but not by much. I don't believe the steering shaft needs to be extended any, it actually needs to be shortened on the rack end to get the u-joint to sit further away from the motor mount/frame. The steering shaft that needs to be welded in I am pretty sure is only because the factory ribbed shaft is thick in diameter and going with a straight tube with smaller OD helps clear the motor mount without cutting half of it out. The length shouldn't change, but I will hopefully be able to confirm by the end of this weekend.
Also, on your previous question regarding the motor mounts and spacers, maybe it possible to get it to clear without the spacers.. but I haven't tried, and can tell you that with brand new motor mounts and the 1/4" spacers the clearance to the bottom of the motor is not THAT great. With the amount of work it takes to get this in, I would advise spacing the motor up just to account for any future sag as the motor mounts start to deteriorate a bit over time.
Thanks for the info. Will order new mounts. Did u fab your own spacers? I'm also on 1inch body lift.
Edite: disregard motor mount spacer. Saw you posted on previous page.
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the spacers are super easy to fab.. we both made ours to the shape of the MM ears, but realistically .. as long as you have a decent chunk of metal with a clearance hole it should do just fine. once they are in, even if they rotate I found that it does not look to be hypecritical
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Very good! Lots of immensely talented members in the 4th gen section with some bad ass rigs.
Search them out and hit them up, most of us are very generous w our time and knowledge.
I wouldn't ever had my rigs built out like they are without this forum.
The wealth of info here is astronomical.
I see you posted in the new member thread, post up a picture of your 4Runner!
Amen to that man… just about everything I’ve done to my rig has been inspired through this forum in large ..
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4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Im happy with them for sure. Looking at the fuel trims on my Torque Pro app, they seem way more consistent.
I have not thrown any codes and the truck runs great.
I don't have any way to quantify power or mileage gains of course, but IMO, I cannot see how a 4 hole stream inj is very efficient, or even comparable to the 12 hole mist that the DD inj provide. If you don't have headers and exhaust, the 250cc, will most likely be enough.
Once I get this thing back on its own weight, I plan on doing a lot of suspension testing, so they will be getting a workout.
Also, Keith at DD is very cool, and was very helpful with questions and concerns.
Right on, thanks for the feedback. I plan to get them. I have a v8 tune just done, doug thorley headers, custom exhaust, cold air intake and 4.88 gears, while weight almost 7k fully loaded! Any way to maximize my fuel sounds like a winner!
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Very close to giving up on this 200 rack. I was hoping to find a solution for the excessive bump steer, but my experience in this situation is lacking and the numbers that Mason was seeing in his CAD model are pretty dead on from what I can tell. Should have listened to him back then.
If I limited droop where the last 2 to 3" sees the most dramatic BS, this DK LT is basically not much better than my TC stock length.
I've tried the heim joint OTE which has a little better travel angle, and it helps a little, but not enough as I'm still seeing over 2" Toe in just on one wheel.
I'm using some kite string w jack stands squared off on the rear tire to measure, so it's not entirely accurate, but over 2" is not hard to see that the front end will be squirrely as hell.
If I limited droop where the last 2 to 3" sees the most dramatic BS, this DK LT is basically not much better than my TC stock length.
I've tried the heim joint OTE which has a little better travel angle, and it helps a little, but not enough as I'm still seeing over 2" Toe in just on one wheel.
I'm using some kite string w jack stands squared off on the rear tire to measure, so it's not entirely accurate, but over 2" is not hard to see that the front end will be squirrely as hell.
That's a bummer, have you thought about the Marlin Crawler kit to see if that would help with some of the bump steer?
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
That's one of the things I looked at, I just don't have that kind a coin.
Already way over budget, and $7500 ain't in the cards.
Maybe a GoFundMe?
:behindsofa:
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
I reamed my knuckles out to accommodate the Tundra OTE taper, which obviously won't work for the 4Runner OTE.
Does anyone know where to source a tapered bushing sleeve like this? I found ball joint bushings and a few others designed for Jeeps or the big 3, tried McMaster and Grainger, but no luck.
Its OD is small end: .70"
Large end: .76".
ID: 62" for a 5/8 bolt
Overall length is: .85"
I need something in this size range, then maybe I can ream it out to match the 4Runner OTE taper.
Does anyone know where to source a tapered bushing sleeve like this? I found ball joint bushings and a few others designed for Jeeps or the big 3, tried McMaster and Grainger, but no luck.
Its OD is small end: .70"
Large end: .76".
ID: 62" for a 5/8 bolt
Overall length is: .85"
I need something in this size range, then maybe I can ream it out to match the 4Runner OTE taper.
