Pelfreybilt - See Update on Last Page

[LawnDart]

I guess because I'm the only one on here who got a Pelfreybilt bumper, I'll say it was well designed and well crafted (not that it ****ing matters at this point). But it attached with 4 bolts on the back of the cross member, 4 under the frame near the rear, and had braces that prevented deflection on the wings behind the rear wheels, so like 12x bolts all together. It was a stout design.

Again not that it matters at this point. I just figured I could at least provide some info on the design for an alternative universe version where this shit storm didn't happen.

 

[The Waco Kid]

That is pretty much how my proline rear is mounted. I can't imagine a steel bumper is only connected through the factory hitch points.




Well both kind of require frame modification. With the C4, you have to beat down the spare tire mount-tensioner-thingies (I havent had my coffee yet) to make room for the bumper to slide over the frame. One of the reasons I went with proline. Though I wouldn't recommend them because customer service was crap in my experience.

True, I think most if not all bumpers require that. I was just pointing out that 4x4 labs requires cutting out of the rear cross-member, and welding in the bumper in it's place. It's quite possibly one of the most involved installs out of all of them, hence my original comment.

As far as an alternative to Pelfry, I think SSO, 4x4labs and C4 best offer what most would consider a full cover replacement, no plastic cutting required.

The others require plastic trimming, at a minimum.

 

[rochmpr]

eeeeehhhh


One of these requires extensive cutting and welding. Just not of plastic

4X4Labs requires some cutting, no welding unless you buy the DIY kit. Most clearance out of any of the rear bumpers out there. It's not for everyone, though, like any product.

 

[rochmpr]

True, I think most if not all bumpers require that. I was just pointing out that 4x4 labs requires cutting out of the rear cross-member, and welding in the bumper in it's place. It's quite possibly one of the most involved installs out of all of them, hence my original comment.

As far as an alternative to Pelfry, I think SSO and C4 best offer what most would consider a full cover replacement, no plastic cutting required.

The others require plastic trimming, at a minimum.

The bumper bolts into place, it does not weld into place.

 

[The Waco Kid]

4X4Labs requires some cutting, no welding unless you buy the DIY kit. Most clearance out of any of the rear bumpers out there. It's not for everyone, though, like any product.

I was under the impression it was welded to the rear frame rails. I guess I was mistaken. I'll edit my original.

 

[4Running303]

i pointed out the picture pelfrey sent me of the mounting.. this mount is very robust. factory hitch points and other mounting points also. i think some bumpers are mounted only via factory hitch points?

I've had a Hefty full swingout rear and a CBI non-swingout bumper. Mounting points are similar...4 hitch bolts and at least 3 bolts down each frame rail. CBI's has a similar tube stanchion that runs out to the side.

They seem to all be fairly similar, making use of the same holes in the frame...and hitch bolts.

 

[arthurm]

Perhaps the last few posts should start a new thread? Like the one I started:

Pelfreybilt rear bumper, resurrection?


...which was closed by the mod!

 

[Jetboy]

i pointed out the picture pelfrey sent me of the mounting.. this mount is very robust. factory hitch points and other mounting points also. i think some bumpers are mounted only via factory hitch points?

I assumed all of them were pretty similar. I would think when they mean factory hitch points - they're meaning the ones on the frame rails where the aftermarket hitches, or the GX460 style hitch, would mount. There's 4 welded nuts down the bottom of each frame rail that offer a pretty secure mounting. I think the bracing out to the corners is a good idea. I have those on my skid also, but tied them into the skid bracket rather than a separate mount to the frame rail. What you'll note in the drawing is that they're only using the two frame mounting points on each side that are used for the two hooks and then attaching the wing supports to one of the other locations further back. Normally I'd expect them to use all 4. They're putting a lot of leverage on those 4 bolts because they're pretty close to the end of the frame rail. I'm sure it's plenty strong either way.

This is how the class 4 hitches mount.

 

[phillyd2]

I guess because I'm the only one on here who got a Pelfreybilt bumper, I'll say it was well designed and well crafted (not that it ****ing matters at this point). But it attached with 4 bolts on the back of the cross member, 4 under the frame near the rear, and had braces that prevented deflection on the wings behind the rear wheels, so like 12x bolts all together. It was a stout design.

Again not that it matters at this point. I just figured I could at least provide some info on the design for an alternative universe version where this shit storm didn't happen.

You know the old saying about stop digging when already in a hole, right?

 

[Scramble]

Two personal bankruptcies... sounds like a good start to a business :spy:

Obviously two people who are great at managing money. SMH

These people are f#ckin' crooks, sorry for everyone who got scammed.

This is just my opinion but these bumpers are way overpriced.
I'd buy my own welder before I'd pay $3500 for a bumper or go to Shrockworks for incredible build quality.

 

[Hawthorne]

Obviously two people who are great at managing money. SMH

These people are f#ckin' crooks, sorry for everyone who got scammed.

This is just my opinion but these bumpers are way overpriced.
I'd buy my own welder before I'd pay $3500 for a bumper or go to Shrockworks for incredible build quality.

Obviously, you do not know what goes into the prototyping and fabrication of a product. $3500 sounds crazy until you break it all down.

I dislike the Pelfreys as much as the next guy on here. But the prototyping of a quality product is not cheap. That's why they used our money to do it then ran out of money for the actual product.

 

[Scramble]

Obviously, you do not know what goes into the prototyping and fabrication of a product. $3500 sounds crazy until you break it all down.

I dislike the Pelfreys as much as the next guy on here. But the prototyping of a quality product is not cheap. That's why they used our money to do it then ran out of money for the actual product.

LOL, I know it doesn't take the $700,000 they've collected from people.

Dont make excuses for these two losers. Every other legit fabricator comes up with new products without ripping off it's customers.

Shrockworks charges $2000 for a rear swingout give or take a few hundred on features so dont give me that crap. Have a nice day. :bounce:

 

[Bonyfattony]

If anyone would to attend the creditors meeting, here are the details.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jetboy]

Obviously, you do not know what goes into the prototyping and fabrication of a product. $3500 sounds crazy until you break it all down.

I dislike the Pelfreys as much as the next guy on here. But the prototyping of a quality product is not cheap. That's why they used our money to do it then ran out of money for the actual product.

$3500 should have lots of profit built in. If they're manufacturing like pros. If they're welding plates together and smoothing all the joints... then it's a lot of labor. They didn't actually build them though right? I thought lasernut was doing the actual manufacturing. Not sure where I read that.

A professional should be able to design, draft and complete the cut file set in a week or so. Then build a few prototypes. Modify plans. And build the assembly jig sets. I think $20k should cover the design, prototyping, and assembly tooling. Cost per unit to manufacture depends on how many. There's about $200 worth of material. Plus hardware. Plus cutting fees. Plus welding labor. And all the overhead and shipping etc. $3500 still should have plenty of profit margin built it.

 

[Engineer]

$3500 seems to be enough to keep the other fabricators in business :lalala:

 

[RedSled]

LOL, I know it doesn't take the $700,000 they've collected from people.

Dont make excuses for these two losers. Every other legit fabricator comes up with new products without ripping off it's customers.

Shrockworks charges $2000 for a rear swingout give or take a few hundred on features so dont give me that crap. Have a nice day. :bounce:

Actually, if you compare apples to apples, they all pretty much charge about the same amount on their products.

 

[sn_85]

Obviously, you do not know what goes into the prototyping and fabrication of a product. $3500 sounds crazy until you break it all down.

I dislike the Pelfreys as much as the next guy on here. But the prototyping of a quality product is not cheap. That's why they used our money to do it then ran out of money for the actual product.

Perhaps and if that was the case (IF) then they should have planned it better. Charge $3,800 for it if that is what will keep the lights on and production going. What you don't do is set a price on a product and not follow through on it, file for bankruptcy and leave everyone hanging. No matter the circumstance it was a gross mishandling of money and it could possibly be criminal.

Actually, if you compare apples to apples, they all pretty much charge about the same amount on their products.

How's that? Even if you priced out the Shrockworks with all the options it comes out to $2500.

 

[SDHQ OFFROAD]

If anybody had a set of 2010+ 4Runner non-KDSS on order during this ordeal, please contact us.

 

[Daohaus]

$3500 should have lots of profit built in. If they're manufacturing like pros. If they're welding plates together and smoothing all the joints... then it's a lot of labor. They didn't actually build them though right? I thought lasernut was doing the actual manufacturing. Not sure where I read that.

A professional should be able to design, draft and complete the cut file set in a week or so. Then build a few prototypes. Modify plans. And build the assembly jig sets. I think $20k should cover the design, prototyping, and assembly tooling. Cost per unit to manufacture depends on how many. There's about $200 worth of material. Plus hardware. Plus cutting fees. Plus welding labor. And all the overhead and shipping etc. $3500 still should have plenty of profit margin built it.

curious if Lasernuts is listed as a creditor...

 

[wfo9]

Perhaps and if that was the case (IF) then they should have planned it better. Charge $3,800 for it if that is what will keep the lights on and production going. What you don't do is set a price on a product and not follow through on it, file for bankruptcy and leave everyone hanging. No matter the circumstance it was a gross mishandling of money and it could possibly be criminal.



How's that? Even if you priced out the Shrockworks with all the options it comes out to $2500.

What amazes me is that some here are still falling for the smoke and mirrors. Even after all this. They still think there was some magic to this bumper cover. LOL

They were good at one thing and one thing only. Marketing, pictures, drawings, and use of pawns (AKA, smoke and mirrors). Some here seem to continue to be impacted by the propaganda.

They got people.. learn from it and don't make the same mistake again. It really sucks what they did, but it is just money in the end. It can be replaced with more hard work. Not learning from it would be even more of a waste.

Oh, I think Demollo is offering 30% discounts for those with an undelivered invoice. Does not make up for it.. but at least it is something to possibly get out of it.